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Noob needs help (mostly street, some track)

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91 Suspension is a deep rabbit hole both in dollars and setup. This is why it was the last thing I am doing performance wise to

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Old 06-12-2018, 10:47 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91 View Post
Suspension is a deep rabbit hole both in dollars and setup. This is why it was the last thing I am doing performance wise to my car. And I'll probably spend the rest of my time trying to figure it out.
I finally got to test my new suspension on the track and it was much better then it was shaved a almost full second off my best right away with the default settings. But getting it setup correctly (I have 14 compression steps x 21 rebound steps = for 294 different settings. Not to mention sway bar settings and spring rate options.) was going to be impossible. I actually hired a driver to put a few sessions in and dial in the correct settings in the pit lane after each few laps. IMO it was worth it because after it I dropped another full second. If it hadn't rained in the afternoon we would have finished what it would have taken me many track days to get even near.

Anyway enough about me, the car will squat and dive on stock springs, even nismo ones. Stiffer springs will fix that but you will lose ride comfort. I have 1000lb/in (17.8kg/mm) front springs and it was/is painful for me especially after the recent harsh winter here in the NJ. On nice pavement it's fine but on concrete roads from 40 years ago with joints ever 25' it makes me want to cry sometimes regardless of how I set the dampers.

#1 Budget is your biggest concern/limiting factor.
#2 Less adjust-ability is more in this instance. Spend more on a better 1-way. And have an easier time learning and tuning it.
#3 Front sway bar. As good as the car may feel in the corners it sure does get it's lean on.
#4 Make a spread sheet of all your potential part options and their prices and pros/cons; make 2 or 3 columns for low cost, middle, and high. Look at it, sleep on it, change it, think about it, then change it again, and after some time you will see one you like more and then go and get it. And after you got it you won't be worried you made a bad decision because you planned and though it through. It took me over a year from start to finish for my suspension overhaul.
#5 Remember you can have plenty of fun with the car as is just by being a better driver.

Edit: IMO I feel the Fortune 500 would be great and make sure you get a dyno sheet with it since each are custom built and tested already.
Reminds me of this post I came across on FB.
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Old 06-13-2018, 02:16 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91 View Post
Suspension is a deep rabbit hole both in dollars and setup. This is why it was the last thing I am doing performance wise to my car. And I'll probably spend the rest of my time trying to figure it out.
I finally got to test my new suspension on the track and it was much better then it was shaved a almost full second off my best right away with the default settings. But getting it setup correctly (I have 14 compression steps x 21 rebound steps = for 294 different settings. Not to mention sway bar settings and spring rate options.) was going to be impossible. I actually hired a driver to put a few sessions in and dial in the correct settings in the pit lane after each few laps. IMO it was worth it because after it I dropped another full second. If it hadn't rained in the afternoon we would have finished what it would have taken me many track days to get even near.

Anyway enough about me, the car will squat and dive on stock springs, even nismo ones. Stiffer springs will fix that but you will lose ride comfort. I have 1000lb/in (17.8kg/mm) front springs and it was/is painful for me especially after the recent harsh winter here in the NJ. On nice pavement it's fine but on concrete roads from 40 years ago with joints ever 25' it makes me want to cry sometimes regardless of how I set the dampers.

#1 Budget is your biggest concern/limiting factor.
#2 Less adjust-ability is more in this instance. Spend more on a better 1-way. And have an easier time learning and tuning it.
#3 Front sway bar. As good as the car may feel in the corners it sure does get it's lean on.
#4 Make a spread sheet of all your potential part options and their prices and pros/cons; make 2 or 3 columns for low cost, middle, and high. Look at it, sleep on it, change it, think about it, then change it again, and after some time you will see one you like more and then go and get it. And after you got it you won't be worried you made a bad decision because you planned and though it through. It took me over a year from start to finish for my suspension overhaul.
#5 Remember you can have plenty of fun with the car as is just by being a better driver.

Edit: IMO I feel the Fortune 500 would be great and make sure you get a dyno sheet with it since each are custom built and tested already.

Thank you for the tips! Appreciate the time you took to write that up for me! I just like planning in advance. Hoping for another track day or two before doing any real modifications to the car (just to get better). Thanks again!
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:18 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Coilovers and wheel/tires are the 2 areas where your costs will vary the most.
Suspension arms have really only option imo. SPL, all the way. you can save a bit going used or waiting for a sale, but this is the brand with the best design and quality, proven over and over across multiple platforms.

You can shoot for the $1200-$1500 range of Fortune/Powertrix coilovers, or the next step up which will be $2000-$3000 including Aragosta, AST, triple adjustable crap

For wheels/tires, the "ideal" option that's the most expensive is the most pragmatic:
1 set of wheels for street, preferably in the 19 or 20 inch, super aggressive variety for maximum hard parking credits with whatever tires you want to get decent treadwear
1 set of wheels for track, 18 inch with sticky tires for maximum grip.

If you only have one set of wheels you have to compromise something, which is personal preference

lastly - be glad you can save money on brakes that don't need upgrading. the OEM Akebonos have 14 inch rotors and bigass calipers already. Fresh pads/fluids/lines are more than sufficient until you reach the point of pure track car levels of grip and power that require bigger brakes to fight that level of heat
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