Z1 2 Piece Akebono Rotors - Need help

[jsutton2]

Hello Z community. I just got the car back from getting the front and rear Z1 2 Piece Akebono Rotors on and it doesn't brake like I expected.

With the OEM rotors and pads, just a small amount of pressure and it stopped on a dime, but now with these new rotors and pads, it takes a lot more pressure to come to a complete stop, unlike the OEM did.

To come to a complete stop, I feel like the pressure is way more than it was before. The new set slows me down fine, and that pressure feels about right, but its the coming to a complete stop that doesn't feel right.

I don't know if this is because the "new" hasn't worn off the pads and rotors yet, or if there is air in the lines. I only have about 40-50 miles on them of light braking. Maybe they just didn't bleed the lines well enough or something, but I just don't have a lot of experience with diagnosing the symptoms so I'm looking for input from you guys. Any help/info would be appreciated!

I purchased the sprinkle slotted rotors, and the pads are Hawk (HPS I think).

[JC-Nismo]

Can't speak on my Z yet, but I had the same experience with my SRT8, when I swapped out the stock rotors and pads for slotted/cross drilled ones and different pads. Just didn't feel the same and I probably won't touch my Z either based on that.

[DEpointfive0]

Did you clean off the rotors prior to install?
Did you bleed the lines?
Also, new pads/different will not feel the same regardless

[Chan Chee Hoe]

i think most slotted/Drilled Discs are good for fast heat removal,won't increase the brake power....for better brake power,you need to upgrade the brake calipers & hoses...

[Spooler]

Did you bed the pads in? Biggest mistake that can be made. I have XP8 pads/Z1 2-piece on all 4 corners and it was a handful breaking the pads in. I had to get after it. My car stops great. I am not sure about your pads but XP8's do require a little heat before they come alive. It's the pads that make the most impact on initial bit, etc.

[SurfDog]

Originally Posted by Spooler

Did you bed the pads in? Biggest mistake that can be made. I have XP8 pads/Z1 2-piece on all 4 corners and it was a handful breaking the pads in. I had to get after it. My car stops great. I am not sure about your pads but XP8's do require a little heat before they come alive. It's the pads that make the most impact on initial bit, etc.

I have Z1 pads and my stops are more like collisions but I definitely had to aggressively bed in the pads

[mdxj]

OEM pads and Hawks have a completely different feel. Bed the pads in and see how it feels after that

[SurfDog]

I run hawk ceramics in winter and mellow summer driving and run hawk plus pads for the track. I prefer hawk ceramics to OEM but really the OEM are pretty good. The ceramics feel "broken" ie no grab after getting used to hawk plus pads so I agree you should bed your pads and drive em awile to get used to the new feel.

Also bleed your brakes. If there is air in the line your feel will be very weird

[wanker]

Bed those brakes.

[TreeSemdyZee]

Originally Posted by wanker

Bed those brakes.

+1

They are going to feel puny for awhile, especially if you didn't follow a "bedding-in" process.

[mdxj]

Good description on why to bed in new pads and how. Don't touch your wheels after you do it either. A friend learned that lesson the hard way.

Stock Brake System Bed-in

[jsutton2]

Originally Posted by Spooler

Did you bed the pads in? Biggest mistake that can be made. I have XP8 pads/Z1 2-piece on all 4 corners and it was a handful breaking the pads in. I had to get after it. My car stops great. I am not sure about your pads but XP8's do require a little heat before they come alive. It's the pads that make the most impact on initial bit, etc.

How do you bed the pads in? I'm reading different things for different pads. Check on the quote below, and pay special attention to the "Note". I have the blue racking pads I think.

HAWK
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

Note: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

[jsutton2]

Found this:

Bed-in / Burnishing Instructions
1. After installing new brake pads, make 6-to-10 stops from approximately 30-35 MPH applying moderate pressure.

2. Make an additional 2-to-3 hard stops from approximately 40-45 MPH.

3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!

4. Allow at least 15 minutes for the brake system to cool down.

5. After step 4 is completed, your new Hawk Performance brake pads are ready for use.

Do you guys think I've already messed up by driving on them for 30-40 miles? I had to drive home, and I made a few complete stops... etc.

[jsutton2]

If I have already messed up, is it as simple as getting all new break pads or will the rotors need turned also?

[Spooler]

Noop, they are not messed up. Just need to get the proper bed in process and follow it. Since you have racing pads, don't expect them to stop so great when cold. That is normal. They just need heat in them.


Read the link in post 11. It will give you an idea.

It appears you need to do some hard stops from 70mph or so to around 25mph. You'll know when they are bedded in. The brakes will come to you, so to speak.