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Also considering 13k or 12k swift fronts / 11k switch rears OEM style coils. Subbed
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#1 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NorCal
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Drives: Z34
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Also considering 13k or 12k swift fronts / 11k switch rears OEM style coils. Subbed
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09 370Z Sport 6MT Chicane Yellow Powertrix | Swift | SPL | SPC | Fast Intentions | Berks | Stillen | Z1 | Setrab | Mocal | H&R | TWM | RJM | Sparco | Buddy Club | Tanabe | GaleForce | EVO-R | ZSpeed | Pioneer
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Popular choice is 12k/11k. Though since you are totally changing your setup, 1k difference in the front isnt that much. But in the end it all depends on driving style. Some people get a bigger sway bar in the rear to match up with the overly stiff front springs. Just depends if you want more or less understeer.
BC Racing BR or DR. Fortune Autos new 500s all are great choices with a set of Swift Coilover springs. I can get you great pricing on all of those if interested.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
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The main thing to consider when choosing spring rates is the tire you will be running and the surface that you drive on most regularly. The springs job is to make sure the tires stay in contact with the road. A lot of the times, a more compliant suspension will be faster than one that is overly stiff. Just food for thought. I would stay away from getting into the 2.3+ hz range unless I was running r compounds on a well groomed track, especially if The car is dual purpose.
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#4 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Roswell, GA
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Ok i read the FA install guide doc and preload seems to be very important for compression, so i will watch him redo it to make sure its right. Thanks fam
Last edited by scope22; 05-23-2018 at 05:59 AM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Perrysburg, OH
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Drives: '11 Nismo #528 GM
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Sounds like you have only on adjustment on you dampers meaning you have single adjustable dampers. On most all single adjust dampers, that one adjustment is almost always rebound.
A few things you need to keep in mind. 1. Your spring rate is what determines the force it takes to compress the damper a given amount. The damper adjustment has no affect on this. 2. On linear spring rate springs the force to compress the spring from 0-1 inch and 1-2 inches is the same force. 3. Most spring manufactures have a optimal spring operating range that provides the listed spring rate most accurately. I.E. between 1-2.5 inches of compression, a 1000 lb/in spring is +/-10 lb/in while outside that range it may be +/-50 lb/in. 4. The rebound (and compression that yours don't have) control the speed at which the damper moves in compression and expansion based on the spring forces being applied. Also if you think your 14k springs are stiff you should feel what my car is like with 24k springs in the front.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2012
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Drives: wife crazy
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Quote:
Thats why i'm thinking something is not right...worst case i'll get new springs or assist springs Last edited by scope22; 05-29-2018 at 06:59 AM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I am on 12k/10k swift springs with Aragosta coilovers. 12k fronts are OK. I have wished they were 13k's fronts and 11k rear. I am a little more than half way on the dampers to get the bounce/rebound out of the car at speed. If I do any aero improvements an upgrade will be mandatory. Another thing I have noticed is when it is hot outside, I had to increase the damper rebound a click or two front and rear.
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