Voodoo13 camber rods

Halfkiddio

The motion ratio is basically the same. You will be able to tell if there are any clearance issues when you drive it. And considering Voodoo13 has done actual R&D work, I think they would've made them curved if they had to. You don't need to have a curved arm to adjust camber, as the thing that actually adjusts camber is the distance from the inner mounting point to the outer point, not the angle of the arm.

Now, on the other side of that, you can change the drop height by raising or lowering the mounting points in relation to each other, but that would be VERY obviously specified in the product description, such as it is with Voodoo's drop spindle angle kit.

Orionx1

The car is lowered so I am cautious of where or how I drive, mostly to prevent tearing the Nismo front chin off.
That being said-
I have driven it and have noticed (heard or felt) no problems at all. I have also inspected the potential rod to sway bar contact area and there is no visual or physical evidence I can see to indicate contact.
I really don’t want to replace these Voodoo c-rods, they seem to be really high quality. My science project for this weekend will be to simulate rear suspension travel. I’m thinking take a spring out, a tire off and with the car on a jack stand at ride height use a floor jack to move the suspension through its travel. If successful on one side I will check the other for peace of mind. Stand by for results.

Orionx1

Science project complete-
for those who care, this is how I spent last couple hours-
1-raised the back of the car, pulled both rears off and set the car on jack stands. Jack stands positioned under rear body mounts so the rear suspension can extend freely.
2- pulled the coilovers out and set them aside.
I now have completely free hanging suspension that I can move up and down easily without affecting the chassis. The sway bar is still fully connected.
3- used floor jack to simulate suspension travel.
before raising the suspension i checked the sway bar to c-rod gap at full extension and as expected the 1/2 inch gap (see my previous posts) had grown to about 3/4 inch. As I raised the suspension with the floor jack the gap gradually decreased to a 1/2 inch at about half way through full travel. To my surprise the sway bar to c-rod gap began to increase as I continued raising the suspension through its travel. The gap at or near the fully compressed suspension travel is about 3/4 inch.
I got the same results on both sides. I did not do any checking with both sides raised at the same time but I cant imagine that would change anything.
So it appears my sway bar to c-rod gap is tightest, 1/2 inch, at ride height!
I am using the OE Nismo sway bar. If I ever upgrade that i may be revisting this issue, but for now I think I'm good.