Wheel and brake pedal shake

SouthArk370Z

Is there any advantage to babying things for a while or is it one of those just-how-I've-always-done-it things? I've always bedded immediately after a pad/rotor change. But that's just how I've always done it.

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BuckeyeZ

For safety's sake....you should bed. This process is what mates the surface of the pad to the surface of the rotor. Until everything is fully seated and surfaces match, you will not have full braking ability. Plus it cleans old deposits off your rotors for the new pads.

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Wheels3309

I'd guess he's going by the recommendations in the Baer Brakes Tech section... read through it, it does a good job (IMO) of explaining the importance of each step...

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SouthArk370Z

Those directions seem to be aimed at high-performance components (and a specific type). But I could be wrong. It still seems to me that for OEM-grade and not so hi-po components, immediate break-in is the way to go. BuckeyeZ agrees but I still have an open mind about it.

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Wheels3309

Good point and I think you might be right. Although it also might not be the worst thing following that advice... Informative none-the-less.


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ban25

I agree with all the comments here that it is likely due to deposits on the rotors. Try re-bedding. For street pads that aren't known to leave deposits, consider one of these options:

- Carbotech 1521
- Ferodo DS2500
- Project Mu

I also recommend staying away from drilled rotors, since they are prone to cracking. Blanks will be most affordable, and you can easily turn them if necessary.

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etx

So basically you guys are saying I didn't successfully bed in my brakes by doing 6 60 to 10 pulls??

SouthArk370Z

Not exactly. Deposits are, by far, the most common reason for your symptoms but you may be dealing with something else.

Bed as per manufacturer's recommendations (and season, too, if called for). For "normal" brakes/rotors, 2-4 runs is all it usually takes.

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etx

I just took it out and did 5 more after a set of three easier light stops to warm everything up. It's still just as bad, tons of judder.

I decided to put it up on jack stands and see if both wheels move freely. The passenger side front is nice and smooth when I spin it by hand. The driver side when pushed the same way stops within a quarter turn after I let go. Definately seems to stop too quickly to me, when compared to the passenger side.

Also I forgot about this part. I can hear a grumble noise coming from the front when driving at highway speeds and only when turning slightly right. When left I don't get the noise. May be related.

When bedding I did feel like it was going to the right slightly, but that could just be my perspective being on the driver side. The wheel didn't seem to pull and stayed straight.

I don't know what a wheel bearing going bad sounds like. In all my years I've never managed to destroy one.

SouthArk370Z

I think you can stop worrying about deposits on the rotors.

Sounds like it might be a wheel bearing. Pretty easy to check. Google is your friend.

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SouthArk370Z

A buddy of mine says the rotor may be out of square or the faces are not parallel. Ie, you got a bad one from the manufacturer.

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etx

Yeah, could be. Good thing I got them from Z1 and they offer zero freaking warranty.

I'm gonna put the dial indicator on the rotor and then the wheel bearing this weekend. At this point it's the only way to tell.

Worst comes to worst I'll turn the old rotors and give them a try.

JARblue

FWIW, you should baby it for a week or so whenever you change pad compounds (e.g. ceramic to metallic) because you want to get rid of the old pad material layer before bedding in the new pads. You don't want two layers of different materials on the rotor, which is what bedding different compound pads immediately will do.

Of course, as already pointed out, this isn't necessary for most street pads, which should be bed immediately

OP, if the dial indicator says the rotor is out, call up Z1 and explain that it appears as though you got bad rotor. Also ask them what the starting width is and check it against yours so you can demonstrate very little wear along with the mileage on them. Explain that you weren't able to bed properly due to the defect. They are very big in this community and if its a manufacturer defect, they should take care of you.

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Spooler

6-60 to 10 stops. It took much more heat for my XP8's to bed in. I really had to get after them and get them hot. The first time I jumped on my brakes the car went left and right like crazy. It took a couple of time of that for that process to be completed. Then the casual drive around for 15-20min to cool them off. Did you torque your lug nuts down to the proper setting? I have always used 85ft/lb's on Nissans.

etx

Yep always use my old click type snap on torque wrench.