Wheel and brake pedal shake

JARblue

Pad deposits increase with heat, which is why you have to brake hard to bed the brakes - the heat is what causes that initial layer of pad material to be deposited on the rotor. So your comments that deposits are occurring because the rotors are "too cold" makes no sense

The common misnomer of "warped rotors" typically happens when you heat up the brakes (like in an emergency braking situation or 'riding' the brakes) and then come to a complete stop with the pads sitting in one place on the rotors. The hot pad material continues to transfer to the rotor in that one spot, creating a high point on the rotor surface which is the reason for shuddering or shaking during braking.

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RadioFlyer

I hear you, and generally I agree, but when you consider that if you bed in brakes incorrectly, you get deposits. So daily driving the pads on the street in an operating temp colder than they are designed for (even if the box says it's fine), would start to heat the pads, but not go through the whole "bedding" procedure, so it would leave deposits. Basically, the consensus on these pads are that as a daily driven pad, they start to heat up and act like they are bedding in again, but then since you're daily driving them, you are coming to a full stop, sitting at a light or whatever, and then cruising for a couple blocks, and then stopping again, and then shutting the car off. Without going through the whole heating/cooling cycle, you're just improperly bedding them. Which leaves deposits. I think it's a problem with the pads because there are plenty of other street/autox pads that don't do this.

Regardless, if you've tried numerous times to bed them, and the shake hasn't changed, then yes, it might be a manufacturing defect on the rotor. The odd thing is that you mentioned in your original post that when you first put on the rotors/pads that they didn't shake. That the shaking started after a week or so. If it was a manufacturing defect, you would have noticed the shaking right away. I've always bedded my pads by doing 10 stops in rapid succession from 60-5mph (not coming to a complete stop), and then immediately cruising on the freeway for 20 mins to fully cool them. If it still shakes after the cooling time, do it again. If the shaking still hasn't changed, then I guess it could be the rotor- but I've personally never seen an actual warped rotor, just ones with a lot of deposits. But if that's the case, do all of your same measurements, but get it on video and send it to Z1 as proof of a defect.

Another thing you could try would be to swap your pads from your left caliper to your right caliper, re-bed them and see if anything changes. Good luck!

etx

Ok well I rebuilt my driver side front akebono caliper and it seems to have fixed it!

Went out and did another bed in and the rotor is nice and dark now where last time it wasn't. I ordered up a wheel bearing to drop in and see if that fixes the weird noise when turning on the freeway. It seems to have a little more runout on the hub face than I like anyways.

NOLA

When you say rebuilt the caliper, do you mean you got a reseal kit? Or you actually replaced parts of the caliper?

I have a 2010 Nismo and I have steering wheel and seat vibration at certain speeds, and under braking. The car pulls right as well. Here is what I have don't to try and fix the problem:

New tires
Road force balance
New rotors and pads
New brake fluid & several bleeds

To answer any obvious pieces of advice:

I've ensured tire pressure is always the correct pressure
I've had several alignments and tire balances.
The old rotors/pads had this problem and now have been replaced.
Rotors/pads were imbedded properly.
Pads have even wear as far as I can tell.

What is next in figuring out how to fix the steering wheel/seat vibration under braking and not braking? As well as the pulling right under braking.

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2010 370Z NISMO - Liam O'Flaherty

ban25

I replaced the seals with a caliper rebuild kit. That said, given the stuff you've already done, you should check your wheel hubs, especially on an older car.

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2017 Corvette Z06 7MT | 1LE | Stage 3 | DSCSport