Not so Big Brake Upgrade

B&W_Evader

I'll second or third on the pads and brake fluid. Love my XP8s but they do dust up quick. They'll probably make a lot more noise on the single piston calipers vs. the 4 piston calipers that come with the sport models.

You'll be way ahead of the stock setup with just a name brand metalic pad and the RBF600 fluid. That should'nt break the bank but plan on new rotors every other pad change.

The XP8s will need new rotors every pad change. My first set of fronts lasted about 40k. DD, no track with occasional canyon runs. Rears look like they'll last through the second set of fronts.

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|RIP|6spd-sport|OSG-LSD|XP8|RBF600|Eibach Sways|RE-71R|FI-34Row|Gen3-CAI|Yaw P.S.|

JARblue

Centric Posi-Quiets are about the only pads I've heard or seen that dust even close to as little as the OEM pads. But even they dust more IMO. Stick with OEM for least dust; I've tried three different pads and will be going back to OEM next. If you need performance pads, you will have to give up controlling the dust. Even so-called performance pads that advertise low dust end up dusting more than OEM without any significant increase in performance over OEM

Not necessary for street driving. However, they only cost $100, and the install is easy. Buy the non-premium ones from Z1 that get rid of the banjo bolts for fewer potential leaks points (have to get these for base, but they work with sport brakes too).

Not necessary for street driving unless you just like the look. Like DE mentioned, there are track guys that use blank rotors. Generic blank rotors are cheap, and while they may not last as long on the track as some aftermarket rotors, they can be cheaper in the long run. I got some slotted rotors because I like the look and they are lighter than OEM rotors.

This is the first thing that needs upgrading for any performance braking. But still not needed for street driving. Motul RPF600 is my choice because I can find it in town on short notice if necessary. It's probably overkill for a DD, but I don't replace brake fluid often enough to worry about that minimal cost difference.

If you insist on spending $500 'upgrading' your brakes, I recommend you start with fluid and brake lines because they're cheap and easy. Buy a power bleeder if you plan to DIY and want make it easy on yourself. After that, what do you want to do? If you can't do the work yourself, install costs are going to eat into the $500 very quick. Slotted rotors and pads cost me over $500 just for the fronts, and I did the install myself.

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