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I can speak to this since I just installed the same set. The adapter plate provided fits 95%, there's one hole in the adapter you have to extend a little
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I can speak to this since I just installed the same set. The adapter plate provided fits 95%, there's one hole in the adapter you have to extend a little - super easy if you have a dremel. You can use existing wiring if you're not pushing extra power to them. I'm running 90W RMS to each of mine so I upgraded the wiring; stock is very very thin.
I can tell you these speakers sound absolutely awesome with 90 watts, they were not too impressive with stock power though. If you're looking for an amp without the need to run a separate power wire through your car, check out the one I have - Alpine Power Pack KTP-445u This fits neatly behind the headunit and only took me an additional 15 minutes or so to install.
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Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier $112.00
Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver) $120.00 So is this a good upgrade while keeping the stock base model head unit and without adding rear speakers or a subwoofer? I would just like to be able to turn up the volume more while driving with the windows down without getting the crappy sound that the stock speakers have at higher volumes.
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Quote:
I have the base model head unit as well.
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I appreciate all the feedback!
I forgot to mention that I already have a Kenwood DNX8120 installed. Not sure if this will help out in the power department for the door speakers? I mean for now I guess I would just like to use the stock wiring as it is already there. I'll be honest, I am a little intimated about snaking wire through the hose of the door. If I can get away with stock wiring I would definitely like to go that route. Opinions on this please? But I am a little confused on this issue because if I am not adding an amp why would I run new wiring? Add new wiring from the harness to the new set speakers...for what? In the future I will be installing an amp to power a sub. Can someone clarify for me how I would power the door speakers in addition to the sub. Do I just add speaker wire to the amp in addition to the speaker wire going to the sub? In other words place the wire in the same "port/under screw" on the amp? I might just not power the speakers with an amp if there really is no advantage in doing so. Maybe the DNX8120 will give them enough power? Im going to try the install with the spacers coming with the Polk unit. Hopefully I will be good to go without any issues. As far as the tweeters go I have read I can just make a bracket pretty easily out of ABS or even cardboard. |
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