New Speakers - Polk DB6501?
 

Hi,

So Im looking to install some door speakers. Now from what I have read I am going to go with a set of component speakers rather than coaxial because it will sound better. (In about a month I will put a sub in the back too)

Everyone seems to rave about the Polk DB6501

Amazon.com : Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver) : Component Vehicle Speaker Systems : Car Electronics

What do you guys think? In the description it says it comes with adapter rings. Will this be sufficient or do I need to head over to Zenclosure to purchase their spacers?

I have also read that I need to run new speaker wire? Why is that? Why cant I just remove the old speaker in the door and use the existing wires for my new speaker? And does this rule apply for the tweeters too?

I'm in the middle of my component install and realize the the following:

1) The Polk adapter rings are thin, therefore your mid-bass will be recessed in the door panel approx 3/4" more than the factory speaker. This may create a depth issue in relation to your mid-bass magnet and the window. I bought some thick plastic spacers on Fleabay for $15 and they seem to do the trick. I would avoid the MDF for worry of moisture issues here in Florida(at least for me).

6½" Speaker Mount Spacer Plates Adapters Brackets Ring Fits Nissan Inifinti | eBay

http://img.techpowerup.org/140819/Capture373.jpg

2) Tweeter mounting- I don't know if the Polk's come with the adapter that recesses into the stock tweeter opening, but Infinity's do. This eliminates the need to make a adapter from scratch. Pretty sweet if I must say.

http://img.techpowerup.org/140819/Capture372.jpg

I've had Polk, MB Quart, Kenwood, Pioneer, and Infinity components over the years. I have to say that I am most happy with Infinity, namely the 6030cs components. Great bang for the buck. Amazon has them for as little as $104/pr.

Good luck with the install!

Adapter rings: Not sure if the included ones will work... The zenclosure ones cost $25 which is around the price of a cheap jigsaw and a 2x4 sheet of MDF. Make your own, enjoy jigsawing more things in the future.

New wiring: If you're not adding an amp, the stock wiring to the doors should be fine. Just keep in mind the factory components have crossovers built onto the speakers and your new speakers will use a provided crossover box, so there will be some wiring modification either way.

I can speak to this since I just installed the same set. The adapter plate provided fits 95%, there's one hole in the adapter you have to extend a little - super easy if you have a dremel. You can use existing wiring if you're not pushing extra power to them. I'm running 90W RMS to each of mine so I upgraded the wiring; stock is very very thin.

I can tell you these speakers sound absolutely awesome with 90 watts, they were not too impressive with stock power though. If you're looking for an amp without the need to run a separate power wire through your car, check out the one I have - Alpine Power Pack KTP-445u This fits neatly behind the headunit and only took me an additional 15 minutes or so to install.

Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier $112.00
Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver) $120.00

So is this a good upgrade while keeping the stock base model head unit and without adding rear speakers or a subwoofer? I would just like to be able to turn up the volume more while driving with the windows down without getting the crappy sound that the stock speakers have at higher volumes.

Yes. My sound is sooo much clearer and is especially noticeable on the highway with the windows down. You will not be disappointed.

I have the base model head unit as well.

I had them. Didn't like them. No mid bass. I went with the Hertz 165XL's. They're perfect

I appreciate all the feedback!

I forgot to mention that I already have a Kenwood DNX8120 installed. Not sure if this will help out in the power department for the door speakers?

I mean for now I guess I would just like to use the stock wiring as it is already there. I'll be honest, I am a little intimated about snaking wire through the hose of the door. If I can get away with stock wiring I would definitely like to go that route. Opinions on this please?
But I am a little confused on this issue because if I am not adding an amp why would I run new wiring? Add new wiring from the harness to the new set speakers...for what?

In the future I will be installing an amp to power a sub. Can someone clarify for me how I would power the door speakers in addition to the sub. Do I just add speaker wire to the amp in addition to the speaker wire going to the sub? In other words place the wire in the same "port/under screw" on the amp? I might just not power the speakers with an amp if there really is no advantage in doing so. Maybe the DNX8120 will give them enough power?

Im going to try the install with the spacers coming with the Polk unit. Hopefully I will be good to go without any issues.

As far as the tweeters go I have read I can just make a bracket pretty easily out of ABS or even cardboard.

I made my tweeter bracket out of cardboard. No ragrets.

Alright heres an update,

I tried the install yesterday and heres what happened...

Removing the door panels was pretty easy. The spacers that came with the speakers worked fine, just had to open up one of the holes in spacer just a tad. I decided to go ahead and hook up an amp so that I could get better sound out of the components.
This was my first time dealing with a crossover and it sounded pretty straight forward but I could not get sound to come out of the speakers. (It just sounded like bass, no lyrics) Here is how I wired it...

Attachment 93257

Any ideas? What could I be doing wrong??

Did you wire the tweeter too? The point of the crossover is to separate frequencies so the door speakers handles low end and tweeter handles only high end.

Check your amplifier settings to make sure if there are any crossover settings on it you have it set to through, let the Polk crossovers handle bass blocking and frequency handling. Check the radio too to make sure your RCAs aren't plugged into the sub out jacks. I know that seems obvious, but I've seen that mistake made.

Which amp did you end up getting? Just make sure your crossover is set correctly on the amp. Since you're running passive crossover, you can just disable the crossover on the amp and let the passive crossover deal with it.

It sounds like you might have your high crossover set pretty low, that's why you're only hearing bass and no mid or high.

Diagram shows correct wiring, provided all pos. and neg. are proper. Like others have said, check your rcas and your amps crossovers. It always comes back to something simple.

Thanks for all the replies!

I actually do have the RCA's going to the sub out jacks. Where am I suppose to put them? What if I want to add a sub in the future?

I have a kenwood kac729s amp if that helps.