Strange window behavior after stereo install?

Ubunoir · 08-23-2009, 05:31 PM

I'm in the middle of installing a new clarion head unit and focal speakers in my 2009 370z. After getting the head unit and drivers side speakers installed, I thought I'd plug the battery back in and test it.

Now, when I open the door, the window goes down slightly (as usual), but doesn't go back up when the door closes. If I continuously open and close the door, the window keeps inching down until it's fully opened.

Any ideas what caused this and how to remedy?

Thanks!

nogoodname · 08-23-2009, 05:32 PM

press and hold windows down for 15 seconds and then 15 seconds up

go try it now and let me know

Ubunoir · 08-23-2009, 05:38 PM

Wow! Fastest help ever. It worked!!!!! Thanks a million, now I have confidence to finish the passanger speakers.

nogoodname · 08-23-2009, 05:40 PM

no problem, it's just a window reset

antennahead · 08-23-2009, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ubunoir

I'm in the middle of installing a new clarion head unit and focal speakers in my 2009 370z. After getting the head unit and drivers side speakers installed, I thought I'd plug the battery back in and test it.

Now, when I open the door, the window goes down slightly (as usual), but doesn't go back up when the door closes. If I continuously open and close the door, the window keeps inching down until it's fully opened.

Any ideas what caused this and how to remedy?

Thanks!

Which Clarion head unit are you installing? I have been thinking about buying the VX-709.

John

nizz23sd · 08-23-2009, 11:26 PM

same reset procedure i did on mine.it on the owners manual.

DIGItonium · 08-24-2009, 12:13 AM

Actually down 15sec isn't needed. You just need to raise the windows to the closed position for 3sec. The beep is a good way to time it.

Ubunoir · 08-24-2009, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by antennahead

Which Clarion head unit are you installing? I have been thinking about buying the VX-709.

John

I put in the CX-609. Clarion CX609 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com . I wanted something that looked close to stock and wasn't interested in video or nav... just better audio and ipod controls.

I have to say, the install was not smooth. I was thrwarted at every turn. The common wisdom that all 2009 nissan harnesses are the same, apparently doesn't apply to crutchfield's harnesses. I ended up not using a harness, and hard-soldering everything directly. The focal polyglass woofers needed spacers that I didn't have. I had to fabricate mounts for the tweeters from raw metal I bought at Home Depot. The crossovers were difficult to fit inside the doors. Whoever invented that molex connector that goes between the door and car interior should be shot (why does it lock into the open position, and why are the unlocking tabs on the passenger side facing the wrong direction?) I never did the PAC SWI-Jack to function, despite being pretty certain that it's wired correctly with the right resistors.

In the end, it sounds.... pretty good for car audio. I guess I'm a little dissapointed with the focal speakers, or maybe it's just the acoustics of the car. When I read about how good the "imaging" is with the polyglass speakers, I was expecting... well... I've got a pair of Tannoy studio monitors in my bedroom recording studio where you can close your eyes and literally point out where each instrument it. These are FAR from that. There's basically no imaging at all. In fact, I thought maybe i'd wired them out of phase, so I reversed them, and there was very little difference. I suspect it's just a limitation of the acoustics of the car, or my expectations were too high. I should've known that I'd never get any kind of imaging with a big panel of glass above the tweets (duh!). If I had to do it again, I'd probably buy cheaper speakers and skip the PAC SWI-Jack altogether. It's 1000x better than the factory sound though. In fact, I laughed when I pulled the factory speakers and saw how tiny the magnet was.

bigaudiofanat · 08-24-2009, 11:29 AM

LOL wow you soldered the wires directly. I would of never done that I would of waited for th right harness. I have only cut the factory harness on one car that was a 97 saab 900se "a friends" Next time you might want to have someone else do it if you though it was hard. Good thing you got it all done though.

Ubunoir · 08-24-2009, 12:07 PM

Hehe, well it would be pretty easy if I had to do it all again, but if I'd known how it was going to go beforehand, I would've considered hiring a pro. The problem was having the wrong parts and the confusion of not seeing what I expected to see once everything was torn apart. Since I was cutting factory wires, I tripple checked everything before cutting, and tested many times throughout. It really slowed me down. Nothing was particularly difficult except reconnecting that #@$! molex connector in the door. I know you've done a few of these, so I'm guessing there is a proper harness? I wasn't able to find one, otherwise I would've waited. The bright side (if there is one) is that I've probably got cleaner connections than going through a harness. Yeah, that's a stretch. ;-) I guess I'm also more "bonded" with the car, and I've gotten pretty handy with a soldering gun!

I thought about putting together a DIY article on connecting/disconnecting/drilling the door molex connector, but there's no way I'm going to tear the car apart again to do it. I wish someone would do one though, as it would've helped me greatly.

bigaudiofanat · 08-24-2009, 12:56 PM

To be honest man and a lot of people will tell you the same thing. I use the factory wiring in the doors for the speakers. Only if I rely have to will I run new wires threw the doors. Let me know if your eye starts to twitch after reading that. Also no there is no aftermarket mole connector for the door or any door.

antennahead · 08-24-2009, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ubunoir

I put in the CX-609. Clarion CX609 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com . I wanted something that looked close to stock and wasn't interested in video or nav... just better audio and ipod controls.

I have to say, the install was not smooth. I was thrwarted at every turn. The common wisdom that all 2009 nissan harnesses are the same, apparently doesn't apply to crutchfield's harnesses. I ended up not using a harness, and hard-soldering everything directly. The focal polyglass woofers needed spacers that I didn't have. I had to fabricate mounts for the tweeters from raw metal I bought at Home Depot. The crossovers were difficult to fit inside the doors. Whoever invented that molex connector that goes between the door and car interior should be shot (why does it lock into the open position, and why are the unlocking tabs on the passenger side facing the wrong direction?) I never did the PAC SWI-Jack to function, despite being pretty certain that it's wired correctly with the right resistors.

In the end, it sounds.... pretty good for car audio. I guess I'm a little dissapointed with the focal speakers, or maybe it's just the acoustics of the car. When I read about how good the "imaging" is with the polyglass speakers, I was expecting... well... I've got a pair of Tannoy studio monitors in my bedroom recording studio where you can close your eyes and literally point out where each instrument it. These are FAR from that. There's basically no imaging at all. In fact, I thought maybe i'd wired them out of phase, so I reversed them, and there was very little difference. I suspect it's just a limitation of the acoustics of the car, or my expectations were too high. I should've known that I'd never get any kind of imaging with a big panel of glass above the tweets (duh!). If I had to do it again, I'd probably buy cheaper speakers and skip the PAC SWI-Jack altogether. It's 1000x better than the factory sound though. In fact, I laughed when I pulled the factory speakers and saw how tiny the magnet was.

I think it is more a case of the cars interior than the Focals. I had Focal midrange drivers in my HT system.... blew one and discovered Focal no longer made it, so ended up swapping all three (R&L plus center) with Vifas, that matched the same parameters.

I think the way to go in these cars is to put a 2 1/2 or 3" midrange in the tweeter space, and mount the tweeter close on the pillar, or dash, or recessed in the factory tweeter grill........ cross over the mid around 400hz. The imaging should improve greatly over a 2 way system with the tweet and mid so far apart. I want to do this type of install, and a 10" thinline sub in a custom enclosure that recesses into the spare tire rim itself....... no trunk space lost and don't have to give up the spare. Tannoys are nice, I am sure they sound great. I'm running Fried monitors with matching transmission line subs, and a SVS cylinder subwoofer for the extreme low end at home.

John

bigaudiofanat · 08-24-2009, 06:06 PM

My beef with focal is that there tweeters are a tad harsh and remind me of infinity tweeters. Unless you go active and have control over them I like Image Dynamics.

rreign · 08-27-2009, 08:43 AM

what is the deal with all of these threads? I don't even own a Z and I can tell you just about anything you want to know! WHY you might ask? Well because I know how to use the damn search link and I spend the time to do so. Google it, it will come up from this site. Ok sorry for the rant and thread bash but damn people!

bigaudiofanat · 08-27-2009, 09:09 AM

Relax man I think the newbs do not know how to use the search button like you and me do. Do not take it personally

08-23-2009, 05:31 PM	#1 (permalink)
Ubunoir Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Claymont, DE Posts: 19 Drives: '99 MX-5 & '09 370z Rep Power: 15	Strange window behavior after stereo install? I'm in the middle of installing a new clarion head unit and focal speakers in my 2009 370z. After getting the head unit and drivers side speakers installed, I thought I'd plug the battery back in and test it. Now, when I open the door, the window goes down slightly (as usual), but doesn't go back up when the door closes. If I continuously open and close the door, the window keeps inching down until it's fully opened. Any ideas what caused this and how to remedy? Thanks!

08-23-2009, 05:32 PM	#2 (permalink)
nogoodname Lifetime Premium Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Montreal Posts: 22,357 Drives: E46 M3 Rep Power: 1764	press and hold windows down for 15 seconds and then 15 seconds up go try it now and let me know Last edited by nogoodname; 08-23-2009 at 05:40 PM.

08-24-2009, 12:13 AM	#7 (permalink)
DIGItonium A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Kansas Posts: 3,800 Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT Rep Power: 42	Actually down 15sec isn't needed. You just need to raise the windows to the closed position for 3sec. The beep is a good way to time it. __________________

08-24-2009, 11:29 AM	#9 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 852	LOL wow you soldered the wires directly. I would of never done that I would of waited for th right harness. I have only cut the factory harness on one car that was a 97 saab 900se "a friends" Next time you might want to have someone else do it if you though it was hard. Good thing you got it all done though. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

08-24-2009, 12:56 PM	#11 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 852	To be honest man and a lot of people will tell you the same thing. I use the factory wiring in the doors for the speakers. Only if I rely have to will I run new wires threw the doors. Let me know if your eye starts to twitch after reading that. Also no there is no aftermarket mole connector for the door or any door. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/ Last edited by bigaudiofanat; 08-24-2009 at 01:29 PM.

08-23-2009, 05:38 PM	#3 (permalink)
Ubunoir Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Claymont, DE Posts: 19 Drives: '99 MX-5 & '09 370z Rep Power: 15	Wow! Fastest help ever. It worked!!!!! Thanks a million, now I have confidence to finish the passanger speakers.

08-23-2009, 05:40 PM	#4 (permalink)
nogoodname Lifetime Premium Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Montreal Posts: 22,357 Drives: E46 M3 Rep Power: 1764	no problem, it's just a window reset

08-23-2009, 11:26 PM	#6 (permalink)
nizz23sd Base Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: san diego,cali Posts: 76 Drives: nissan 370z 09 Rep Power: 16	same reset procedure i did on mine.it on the owners manual.

08-24-2009, 12:07 PM	#10 (permalink)
Ubunoir Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Claymont, DE Posts: 19 Drives: '99 MX-5 & '09 370z Rep Power: 15	Hehe, well it would be pretty easy if I had to do it all again, but if I'd known how it was going to go beforehand, I would've considered hiring a pro. The problem was having the wrong parts and the confusion of not seeing what I expected to see once everything was torn apart. Since I was cutting factory wires, I tripple checked everything before cutting, and tested many times throughout. It really slowed me down. Nothing was particularly difficult except reconnecting that #@$! molex connector in the door. I know you've done a few of these, so I'm guessing there is a proper harness? I wasn't able to find one, otherwise I would've waited. The bright side (if there is one) is that I've probably got cleaner connections than going through a harness. Yeah, that's a stretch. ;-) I guess I'm also more "bonded" with the car, and I've gotten pretty handy with a soldering gun! I thought about putting together a DIY article on connecting/disconnecting/drilling the door molex connector, but there's no way I'm going to tear the car apart again to do it. I wish someone would do one though, as it would've helped me greatly.

08-24-2009, 06:06 PM	#13 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 852	My beef with focal is that there tweeters are a tad harsh and remind me of infinity tweeters. Unless you go active and have control over them I like Image Dynamics. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

08-27-2009, 09:09 AM	#15 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 852	Relax man I think the newbs do not know how to use the search button like you and me do. Do not take it personally __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

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