Headunit not working, but illuminating

[ViCiouS]

First off, I've read all the stickies.

I'm not new to audio installs, I have all wires connected correctly. When I plugged in my aftermarket headunit there is no response from it at all. So I plugged the stock headunit back in, it will illuminate but not do anything else. It was working previously.

Is there a specific fix for this? Sport model 2010, no bose system.


On another note, the airbag light is flashing, when I try the fix it will get to the "diagnostic mode." but will not exit unless I turn the car off. At which time the airbag light will be back to flashing continuously.



EDIT: long day, i'm going to go check the fuses - checked, from what i can tell none are blown

[YzGyz]

Make sure speakers are connected? If your using amps, make sure they are connect right too. Trace all of your wires that's all I can say. I had a little trouble with my system too but a little tracing and frustration later and it's all good now.

As for the airbag thing, follow the posted direction on resetting it. Letting it blink and turn the car off, sit 5 sec then redo 3x. I had problems with the airbag light when my system was not working correctly. Once I had my system working correctly, the airbag went away.

[ViCiouS]

Originally Posted by YzGyz

Make sure speakers are connected? If your using amps, make sure they are connect right too. Trace all of your wires that's all I can say. I had a little trouble with my system too but a little tracing and frustration later and it's all good now. nothing new is connected yet except the headunit harnesses

As for the airbag thing, follow the posted direction on resetting it. Letting it blink and turn the car off, sit 5 sec then redo 3x. I had problems with the airbag light when my system was not working correctly. Once I had my system working correctly, the airbag went away. I followed the guide exactly, like i said it will go to diagnostic but wont reset

reply in red

[YzGyz]

Do the old reset technique. Take everything apart and put it back together like how it originally was. If you have already done this, do it again. U might have left something out. If you have a buddy or somebody that knows more about this type of stuff, ask if they can take a look. Worst to worst, when you put everything back together and it still don't work, drop it off the the dealer and get them to fix it. Tell them that it just started happening and not sure what happen. You don't have to tell them what led up to it. lol, just sidestep there questions and say it was working before, car is still under warrantee, ect.

[122554]

Sounds like a grounding problem. Think I'd start there.

[kenchan]

yah, sounds like a wiring problem to me, or your hu was broken and blew fuse or something.

As for the SRS light, you probably turned on the car without the passenger SRS on/off indicator thingie connected.

[RonRizz]

Sounds to me like you have a date with your Multimeter. You obviously have an issue with 12v+. Remove stock HU, test for power at switched and battery. Try to ground at a different spot to be sure you're getting the right reads. You got a bad fuse somewhere..... Just because they "Look" good doesn't mean they are good. Test "em.
I would have to say theres nothing else it could be.

[SouthArk370Z]

Originally Posted by RonRizz

Sounds to me like you have a date with your Multimeter. You obviously have an issue with 12v+. Remove stock HU, test for power at switched and battery. Try to ground at a different spot to be sure you're getting the right reads. You got a bad fuse somewhere..... Just because they "Look" good doesn't mean they are good. Test "em.
I would have to say theres nothing else it could be.

Excellent troubleshooting advice.
When I worked as an instrument tech, the "old guy" in the shop would always say "Make sure you have B+" (and "Make sure the o-n-o-f-f switch is in the o-n position").

Visually checking car fuses can be hit-or-miss. Put a meter (or other continuity checker) on 'em to be sure.

[bigaudiofanat]

Originally Posted by RonRizz

Sounds to me like you have a date with your Multimeter. You obviously have an issue with 12v+. Remove stock HU, test for power at switched and battery. Try to ground at a different spot to be sure you're getting the right reads. You got a bad fuse somewhere..... Just because they "Look" good doesn't mean they are good. Test "em.
I would have to say theres nothing else it could be.

X2 Love my volt meter and don't do an install unless I have one. OP check your ground also reset the car by pulling the negative battery terminal off for a minute.

[ViCiouS]

Thanks for continued advice guys, I suppose i'll replace all audio related fuses even though they visually look good. I ran wire for the grounds directly to the battery terminal to rule that out. Didn't check the 12v continuous though because I was assuming illumination required that to be working.

That will be my next check.

[RonRizz]

Keep us posted. Its not the easiest thing to diagnose ones problems online, but theres some good guys in here with a combined wealth of knowledge, and most are more than happy to help.

[Fountainhead]

Originally Posted by ViCiouS

Thanks for continued advice guys, I suppose i'll replace all audio related fuses even though they visually look good. I ran wire for the grounds directly to the battery terminal to rule that out. Didn't check the 12v continuous though because I was assuming illumination required that to be working.

That will be my next check.

Hi, Illumination lead is separate, it's either PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) or varying voltage level to track the dash lights. Sometimes it's just a sense line that turns on knob backlight and dims the TFT when the Illumination line is high. (Lights are on).

[ViCiouS]

Well I figured out how to make it work but not where the source of the problem is. The yellow wire (constant 12v power), is not actually supplying any power. I ran wire directly from the battery for this and the radio works fine.

Obviously I could run wire and make it work this way, but I would like to solve the issue all together. Any idea where to go from here?

[bigaudiofanat]

Originally Posted by ViCiouS

Well I figured out how to make it work but not where the source of the problem is. The yellow wire (constant 12v power), is not actually supplying any power. I ran wire directly from the battery for this and the radio works fine.

Obviously I could run wire and make it work this way, but I would like to solve the issue all together. Any idea where to go from here?

Sounds like your harness is messed up like a 2013 370z I did. meaning the pins didn't match up. Did you verify that none of the pins got pushed out of your aftermarket harness?

[ViCiouS]

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Sounds like your harness is messed up like a 2013 370z I did. meaning the pins didn't match up. Did you verify that none of the pins got pushed out of your aftermarket harness?

yup they are all good. Like i said, the stock radio won't work now either. I made an led current tester (wire, resistor, led, wire) to check the wires. Yellow alone isn't working out of the dash harness.

I'm thinking i'll just end up splicing a constant power from the 12v outlet in the center console.

On another note, since you seem to have experience with 370 installs. What produces better base in the Z, sub facing back or sub facing upwards and slightly forward? Will be 2200 rms as many cubes as i can fit tuned to 28-32 hz.