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Plug & Play Speakers?

Yes and no. If you want to do a coaxial speaker you would be able to use an adapter and just install it in the door. however you would have

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Old 03-18-2013, 07:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Yes and no. If you want to do a coaxial speaker you would be able to use an adapter and just install it in the door. however you would have to unplug your tweeter in the dash otherwise it would sound pretty bad. So yes but you would lose quality and imaging.

If you installed a component set installing the woofer in the door and installing the tweeter in the factory location. The set would include a crossover you would use as we. That would be the best way to go but you would have to run new speaker wire, which really is not that hard.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Yes and no. If you want to do a coaxial speaker you would be able to use an adapter and just install it in the door. however you would have to unplug your tweeter in the dash otherwise it would sound pretty bad. So yes but you would lose quality and imaging.
This option is part of my question. How would I unplug the tweeter wire? I mean, where is it? At the head unit there are only 2 wires, a right speaker +/- and a left speaker +/-. So somewhere in-between there is for sure a "split" to run wires to the tweeter and wires to the door. I'm thinking that "split" takes place at a crossover? Yes/no? If so, where is it?

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If you installed a component set installing the woofer in the door and installing the tweeter in the factory location. The set would include a crossover you would use as we. That would be the best way to go but you would have to run new speaker wire, which really is not that hard.
Well, this option will probably sound better, but how about the install? First, running new wires in this car will be a pain I'm sure. Then, Crutchfield doesn't make any mention of tweeter mounting, only door mounting, so how do after market tweeters fit in our cars? Do we need special brackets etc? And if I could just find the location of the factory installed crossover mentioned above, then I'm thinking no new wires would be needed. Couldn't I just tap them at the crossover "split" point? Put the new crossover where the old one is and be good to go? Yes/no? Why not?

Sorry to be such a dumb arse and a pain. I haven't installed car stereos since back in the 80's / 90's when there was no such thing as separate tweeters and subwoofers. Now I'm more of a home stereo guy so this car stuff is a bit Greek to me. I appreciate your teaching me about it now.

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Old 03-19-2013, 05:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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This option is part of my question. How would I unplug the tweeter wire? I mean, where is it? At the head unit there are only 2 wires, a right speaker +/- and a left speaker +/-. So somewhere in-between there is for sure a "split" to run wires to the tweeter and wires to the door. I'm thinking that "split" takes place at a crossover? Yes/no? If so, where is it?



Well, this option will probably sound better, but how about the install? First, running new wires in this car will be a pain I'm sure. Then, Crutchfield doesn't make any mention of tweeter mounting, only door mounting, so how do after market tweeters fit in our cars? Do we need special brackets etc? And if I could just find the location of the factory installed crossover mentioned above, then I'm thinking no new wires would be needed. Couldn't I just tap them at the crossover "split" point? Put the new crossover where the old one is and be good to go? Yes/no? Why not?

Sorry to be such a dumb arse and a pain. I haven't installed car stereos since back in the 80's / 90's when there was no such thing as separate tweeters and subwoofers. Now I'm more of a home stereo guy so this car stuff is a bit Greek to me. I appreciate your teaching me about it now.

Thanks ---- Bonzo
Same way as you disconnect the speaker when you take the door off. Remove tweeter grill, unscrew 4 bolts holding that tweeter in, than unplug the molex conector underneeth the tweeter at the base.

Crutchfield is meh anymore, they do not mention your tweeter but they are there. The way the wires are ran is from your head unit is from the head unit to the connector of the tweeter than from there to your woofer in the door. Do yourself a big favor take the extra 20 minutes a door and run new speaker wire and install components. In the Z running speaker wire is very easy. Many write ups on how to even do it as well. But if you insist on throwing your sound quality away go for coaxial speakers and disconnect the tweeter by fallowing the steps above.

If you use a set of polk db's they are pretty much direct fit. The woofer does not require any spacer rings and the new tweeter can be mounted in the old tweeters basket after cutting it out. Or you can order a set of these.

PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Same way as you disconnect the speaker when you take the door off. Remove tweeter grill, unscrew 4 bolts holding that tweeter in, than unplug the molex conector underneeth the tweeter at the base.
Got it, didn't think to unhook it at that end. Now that you guys have told me about being wired in parallel, this makes total sense.

Quote:
Crutchfield is meh anymore, they do not mention your tweeter but they are there.
For me they are a bit like Tire Rack. Great for research, but not necessarily the best to order from. I've always had good luck with Crutchfield though, IF, IF they have the product you want. But they do not always carry the best products. I will never buy from tire Rack again; they are A-holes.

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The way the wires are ran is from your head unit is from the head unit to the connector of the tweeter than from there to your woofer in the door.
Good to know.

Quote:
Do yourself a big favor take the extra 20 minutes a door and run new speaker wire and install components. In the Z running speaker wire is very easy. Many write ups on how to even do it as well.
I'll definitely search the forum for those posts before I make any decision. I've found lots of people say certain things are easy and it winds up being a pain. When I think of running wires through door tubing I'm thinking "pain." People said it only took an hour or two to install Dynamat in the trunk and that was a load of crap. Took me more like 10 hours to do it complete and properly.

Quote:
But if you insist on throwing your sound quality away go for coaxial speakers and disconnect the tweeter by fallowing the steps above.
I wouldn't consider it throwing away. Either way I do this it's going to sound better than stock. So it's more about time I have and the amount of money I want to spend. Like I said in my original post, while I am an audiophile (my home speakers cost $5000), in this car I just don't listen that often. As it sits is "okay". I'm just considering this since I have to pull the door panel anyway.

Quote:
If you use a set of polk db's they are pretty much direct fit. The woofer does not require any spacer rings and the new tweeter can be mounted in the old tweeters basket after cutting it out.
I went to Crutchfield and there are many model db's listed. All the separate systems listed have round woofers, so those will need a bracket for sure. They don't list any 6x9 separate systems. What you say above sort of implies Polk does in fact make such a beast. You know which it is specifically?

Quote:
Or you can order a set of these.

PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
Nice. Perfect.

Thank you very much for all your help. I feel much more knowledgeable now about things and this will help very much in me making a final decision.

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Last edited by Bonzo; 03-20-2013 at 08:55 AM.
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