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JL shipped me a turd in a box labelled W3 for $159

Seek refund from vendor or dispute charge at visa/paypal... those would be my first actions.

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Old 06-09-2012, 06:27 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Seek refund from vendor or dispute charge at visa/paypal... those would be my first actions.
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:37 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by vjarnot View Post
Speakers fail in two ways:

You turn the volume to a particular level, which determines the load that the speaker places on the amp, let's say X watts.

Now then: your amp either can, or can not, supply X watts:

a) your amp can supply X watts: the speaker plays at the selected volume. If playing at this volume causes the speaker to exceed its thermal or physical capacities (i.e., the amount of heat it can dissipate, or the distance the cone can extend), then the output sound is distorted and the speaker ultimately fails.

b) your amp can not supply X watts: the amplifier attempts to supply the amount of power that the speaker is drawing, but can not. This causes clipping, as the electrical waveform from amp to speaker has its peaks and troughs squared off. The output sound is compressed and the speaker ultimately fails.

The key bit that many people don't get is that the speaker is the component that determines how much output power (i.e., wattage) is drawn from the amp.
by your theory, If I hook up a sub that is rated at 1000 watts rms to an amp that is rated at 25 watts rms, The amp will instantly clip, and blow the speaker?? Total BS Unless I've been doing something wrong for the last 30 years.... Clipping..yes, Overdriving.....Yes, too little power, not a chance.
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Old 06-09-2012, 07:56 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonRizz View Post
by your theory, If I hook up a sub that is rated at 1000 watts rms to an amp that is rated at 25 watts rms, The amp will instantly clip, and blow the speaker?? Total BS Unless I've been doing something wrong for the last 30 years.... Clipping..yes, Overdriving.....Yes, too little power, not a chance.
I should have realized after the first time in this thread that this was going to end poorly...

No, your amp will not instantly clip. The point at which it clips depends on the efficiency of the speaker and the volume that you have selected (and also the input signal itself, as speaker efficiency typically varies with the frequency it is being asked to reproduce). You will cause your amp to clip when you select a level which your speaker requires more wattage to produce than your amp can deliver, as I wrote earlier.

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Clipping..yes, Overdriving.....Yes, too little power, not a chance.
What, exactly, do you think causes clipping? Hint: it's that third item, which you gave "not a chance".
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Old 06-10-2012, 03:52 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Hmmm. whatta ya know. All these years I thought clipping was caused by overdriving the input gains on your amp.
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:13 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonRizz View Post
Hmmm. whatta ya know. All these years I thought clipping was caused by overdriving the input gains on your amp.
That's what I said.

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Originally Posted by vjarnot View Post
You will cause your amp to clip when you select a level which your speaker requires more wattage to produce than your amp can deliver
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:33 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Let's keep it on the topic... this member has a problem with a subwoofer and amp combo.... as a result he has a blown sub....

Sooooooooo, Did you call the vendor yet, and what happened.
Did you get serial number on the back of the sub or on the packaging.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:02 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Not yet - I'll have that info when Matt takes my sub out this weekend and puts my replacement sub in.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:13 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Let's keep it on the topic... this member has a problem with a subwoofer and amp combo.... as a result he has a blown sub....

Sooooooooo, Did you call the vendor yet, and what happened.
Did you get serial number on the back of the sub or on the packaging.
Roger that. Sorry, didn't mean to hijack you, vertigo.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:12 PM   #54 (permalink)
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I have had the same 10" jlw3v3 for 7 years now... It has survived when 2 amps didnt haha
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:25 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Sorry to hear that yours failed in such short time.. but I had a 10" sealed and 12" vented W3v3 setup in the past and they were wonderful, one of them was over driven past manufacturers limit for more than a year and still worked fine!
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:49 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Thanks for all of the thread comments.
I guess the failure of the sub is probably due to a wiring error of 1ohm instead of being at 4ohms.

The thing I'm still not getting is, the other JL sub I have is still working completely fine being wired at 1ohm, and doesn't sound like it's getting too much power whatsoever. My volume levels are still as low as they were when the 1 sub stopped working.

If the wiring caused the subs to get wayyyyyy too much power, shouldn't they both be dead, instead of one being toast and the other working as good as new?

This is why I think there's something defective with the one sub.
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:48 AM   #57 (permalink)
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a) Title of post
b) acknowledgement by OP that subs were wired wrong and received way too much power
c) one sub failed, the other didn't
d) Conclusion: since ONE sub did not fail, then the sub that failed must have been defective.

??????

Does this fail to make sense to anyone else or am I just having a bad day?
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:58 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reunited View Post
a) Title of post
b) acknowledgement by OP that subs were wired wrong and received way too much power
c) one sub failed, the other didn't
d) Conclusion: since ONE sub did not fail, then the sub that failed must have been defective.

??????

Does this fail to make sense to anyone else or am I just having a bad day?
^ you're having a bad day.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:04 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vertigo View Post
Thanks for all of the thread comments.
I guess the failure of the sub is probably due to a wiring error of 1ohm instead of being at 4ohms.

The thing I'm still not getting is, the other JL sub I have is still working completely fine being wired at 1ohm, and doesn't sound like it's getting too much power whatsoever. My volume levels are still as low as they were when the 1 sub stopped working.

If the wiring caused the subs to get wayyyyyy too much power, shouldn't they both be dead, instead of one being toast and the other working as good as new?

This is why I think there's something defective with the one sub.
You were overpowering them substantially. If there was a defect, it wasn't the ultimate source of the failure. It may have allowed the woofer to fail sooner than the other, but the fact remains that they were severely overpowered.

Let's put it this way... If I put 2 brand new cars on the dyno and run them both at 2000 RPM over redline and one blows up before the other I can't really say that car was defective. It was being pushed beyond it's engineered limits. The other car just held out longer. Maybe the car that lasted longer was built a little better, maybe not.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:08 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vividracing View Post
You were overpowering them substantially. If there was a defect, it wasn't the ultimate source of the failure. It may have allowed the woofer to fail sooner than the other, but the fact remains that they were severely overpowered.

Let's put it this way... If I put 2 brand new cars on the dyno and run them both at 2000 RPM over redline and one blows up before the other I can't really say that car was defective. It was being pushed beyond it's engineered limits. The other car just held out longer. Maybe the car that lasted longer was built a little better, maybe not.

Makes sense when you put it that way.
Thanks for everyone's patience with my questions.
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