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Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat Did you create a box underneath that plywood? Also curious on the sub box enclosure. By the way, I am making a mold for a sub
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#1 (permalink) |
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Also curious on the sub box enclosure.
By the way, I am making a mold for a sub box in the same location. The sub box will be made out of composite FRP (ie. basa core fiberglass). Their are several bolts that stick up from the floor and a yaw sensor that you need to be mindful of so as to have a good fit without any issues. What did you rap the wood with? |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Ya you should really build a box I can see when you upgrade your subs where the box or board will just jump.
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#5 (permalink) |
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sub'd
Im about 1/2 way done with my box that goes in the spare tire. This is also a great alternative. I think i only have about 3.5" of clearance, so this might be a better option if I can get around 5-6" of clearance. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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did you build an enclosure yet, or still using open cab as a box? you will get better response if its boxed. also, any probs with amps overheating sitting under there? doesn't look like much space for them to breathe.
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Just started fitting, had to add a 4 inch spacer at the front of the head board. Still Running IB, sound is very wide band, I can now turn off all lows to the front speakers. I still need to cut a new header board (better fit) and carpet it.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Infinite baffle by definition requires that the front wave of the woofer be completely sealed off from the rear of the woofer. Not to mention they generally utilize larger volumes of air behind the woofer to make them able to extend well below 20hz. In you current situation you would get much better overall performance from you subs if you were to build an enclosure in that area than trying to force an in install into that area. Not to mention with that small volume of air if you manage to seal the woofers off you doing to end up with a fairly low qtc which will essentially yield you a sealed enclosure
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