Group Buy/Interest - 2011 Rear View Camera

bdl99

Jeff, good news on the 2009 option, looks like you've got a good deal there.

Some history and details for those who care

The 2009/10 GT-Rs and 2009 370z have the older NAV systems/screen. The main difference was/is that the older units were analog RGB and not "programmed" so to speak to take the camera. For the older systems there are various solutions like the NAVTool unit that contain a composite to RGB converter and then a switching circuit to switch the display when the car is placed in reverse. That is why they cost a little more (there is more to it).

My interest was just in the newer units and it started when I got my 2011 GT-R in June and I realized the car appeared to be programmed for a backup camera but not wired. I set about finding out where the camera inputs went and by comparing the wiring diagrams of the Infiniti and GT-R worked it out. I tested the theory on my own car and it worked. I posted the finding and details for everyone to see (including vendors). Had I wanted to make money I wouldn't have done that. You can see the first thread here --> Could it be that simple - NAGTROC

What you will see is for 2011 GTR (and 2010 370z) all that is needed is three things:

1. To enable the camera
2. A way of connecting the video-in because although the software is there the wires are not
3. Configuring the guidelines (it is not a simple on/off - they can be configured)

For Item 1, many of you have already done this. You will get the blue screen when putting the car in reverse.

For item 2, I proved the theory by sticking two probes in the pins I had identified and it worked. You could just insert two pins in those holes and connect an RCA/phono jack on the other end and you would be all set (would cost you a couple of bucks). However, I didn't want to take that approach as I didn't want to interfere with the existing plug because once you insert those pins they don't come back out. My idea was to create a harness that sat between the existing plug and socket so that it could be removed as easily as it was installed (important for those with warranty concerns). Finding the plugs and sockets took me a few weeks and then several more to get them shipped from Japan.

Item 3 was just lots of trial and error and remembering some physics from school, but I eventually got the results I was pleased with. In fact one fellow GT-R owner who I helped out even posted:
"The guideline settings he gave are absolutely spot-on! In fact, they're more accurate than my friend's stock R8 guidelines"

Any DIYers out there I'm happy to help in anyway I can.