The Audio System

coaxial

I should be picking up my 370 here soon. I am in the process of ordering the audio system and was looking for some advice.

The audio build will contain mainly the following plus some other goodies.

Head unit Related
Kenwood DNX9960

Speakers:
MB quart Premium PVI216 6.5" components
Subwoofer:
JL audio 12W7

Amps:
JL 1000/1V2 & 300/2v2



The unit comes out to about 1300watts total. I will be running 2AWG power cable to a distribution block then split it into 4AWG to each amp.

I have read that a typical farad capacitor in the long run puts to much of a load on the alternator etc & it is better to upgrade the "big three" (1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis.)

Have any of you guys done this? What is the gauge of the cables on the car stock? Also once it is upgraded would it be ideal for a capacitor or what are your opinions?

Thanks

Look forward to perhaps doing a write-up when I am about to perform the installs!

bigaudiofanat

I will be doing it on my own car "civic" and have done it on 2 other cars. It is something that takes a bit of time but is worth it and make sure to use flexible wire for the connections. Also you are right caps are actually bad for your system.

__________________
Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know
Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com
Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below
https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

coaxial

Thanks for the info!

2fast4thelaw

You are in luck, the 370Z has a 150 amp alternator. You will be able to support the audio system however I highly recommend you get a better battery like an Oddysse or a Stinger thats designed to support a high powered audio system. Your stock battery may last a year if that. Most people over look these issues and wonder down the road why they have electrical problems with thier car.

I would recommend you go to a welding shop and get some 1/0 power cable. Welding cable is way cheaper than audio cable and its just as flexible but its pure copper. Then split it off to 4 gauge to each amp.

Your choices of components are very good, I really like MB Quarts but they are not as popular as they were 10 years ago but they are still as good as they used to be if not better. I would however recommend the 12W6V2 over the 12W7. I feel the W6 is a much better sounding sub. W7's sound heavy and are more of an SQL sub. The 12W6V2 will already pound your head into pulp in that size of a car.

Running this sub instead will save you a lot of dough. Its half of the price and you wont need that 1000 watt amp. The JL Audio 500/1v2 would be a perfect match and take less of a toll on your electrical system and wallet. Any more power than that is a waste and it your sub will last maybe a year before its cooked. Been there done that.

The HD series 4 channel amps are really the way to go. They are way more efficient, easier to install due to small size. You should look at the HD 900/5 amp. Its a beast of an amp for its minute size. I have one running in 3-channel mode at 500rms to the sub and 200 watts X 2 for the the front speakers.

I am running the rears off of the deck power for just a touch of rear fill. I feel the rear speakers make the music a bit more enveloping but most people dont bother with them. Its an old school trend that I have just never let go.

__________________
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

coaxial

I appreciate the advice man!!

Ill post some stuff up once I decide what I will do!

SlikNik

I too have the JL HD 900/5 and it is freaken awesome. Running Boston Pro60se's up front and a 12W6v2 thumping in the back. It slams hard and sounds awesome.
I second 2fasts recommendations and would recommend this amp and sub highly.

__________________
Enjoy my Audio Install Videos.
http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/1...ll-videos.html