Audio System from scratch.. Bye bye Bose..

pty370z · 01-23-2010, 03:33 PM

So, I have a Touring 370Z and I'm considering removing all my Bose system so I can install a new headunit, some nice 4-way 6.5" speakers in the doors, remove the rear speakers or just leave them there but unplugged and changing the subwoofer...

I would love to spend the least amount of cash possible on this... Has anyone considered using any of these two alternatives for a subwoofer replacement..?? Both of these options are a built-in amp/woofer setup.. They look like good alternatives and occupy very little space...

I would appreciate your thoughts...

Kenwood KSC-SW10 OR JVC CS-DA1

And one question in the process.. What would I do with the front tweeters (the ones in the dash by the windshield)..?? can I forget about those..?? Thanks..!

bigaudiofanat · 01-23-2010, 03:36 PM

Go with the kenwood and not to be rude but please use the search button a lot of talk has been going on with taking out the bose system and starting over.

pty370z · 01-23-2010, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Go with the kenwood and not to be rude but please use the search button a lot of talk has been going on with taking out the bose system and starting over.

I've read on it and searched.. My question was mainly about the amp/woofer combo items that I just found..

And I honestly don't know what to do with the tweeters on the dashboard...

bigaudiofanat · 01-23-2010, 03:43 PM

Basically if you are going to start over than start over. Buy a nice set of components such as the polk mm series that include a set of tweeters that you would put in place of the old ones. Also make sure to run new wire to all the speakers and use the new crossovers that they include. Amps for a nice small all channel amp look at the alpine pdx 5 that way you can bridge the 4 channels to two and send more power to the front speakers and have a channel for the sub. Install your new head unit and run rca wires from there to the new amp. Take the stock amps and sub out as they will be worthless. Hope that helps you in the right direction. If you need more details or have more questions please ask.

pty370z · 01-23-2010, 03:47 PM

Would it be smart to forget about the tweeters, simply install the headunit, get some nice 6.5" 4-way speakers for the doors, power those speakers only with the headunit outputs, and use the Kenwood Amp/Woofer unit I asked about as my subwoofer and that's it..??

I appreciate your help...

cptspeed · 01-23-2010, 03:53 PM

I just gutted the old tweets and used their frame as a base for my kicker tweets. If you are just looking for a good setup and not looking for perfection, the ampsub combos will make life a little easier. If you haven't seen slikniks tutorial, look for it. I followed his lead and everything worked well. Except for forgetting to hook up the power antenna wire. Bigaudio troubleshot that one. Good luck!

cptspeed · 01-23-2010, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pty370z

Would it be smart to forget about the tweeters, simply install the headunit, get some nice 6.5" 4-way speakers for the doors, power those speakers only with the headunit outputs, and use the Kenwood Amp/Woofer unit I asked about as my subwoofer and that's it..??

I appreciate your help...

Go with the components. You will thank me. The wire is easy to run.

jikhead · 01-23-2010, 03:56 PM

If it helps, this is what I'm working on right now:

Been building custom sub-box in the spare tire to replace the Bose sub, which contains a Pioneer 10" shallow sub.
Pioneer 6.75" components to go in the doors and tweeters on the dash.
Alpine MRP-F300 to power all three: 50 watts to the components and bridging the 3/4 channels to power the sub which is 150 watts.
AudioControl LC6i to clean up the signals from the Bose amp then to the Alpine amp.
Continue to use the Bose head unit for now; will add a new head unit later.
All the pieces cost me around $440.
The wiring, building the box...probably around $100 because I'm reusing some wiring, adding in some new wiring/pieces, the MDF, liquid nails, screws, poly-fill, broken bits, etc.

pty370z · 01-23-2010, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cptspeed

Go with the components. You will thank me. The wire is easy to run.

By components you mean the tweeters..?? I apologize for the ignorance... besides, English is not my first language... Thanks..

cptspeed · 01-23-2010, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pty370z

By components you mean the tweeters..?? I apologize for the ignorance... besides, English is not my first language... Thanks..

Yes components are separate mids and tweets. Just like in your car now.

cptspeed · 01-23-2010, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jikhead

If it helps, this is what I'm working on right now:

Been building custom sub-box in the spare tire to replace the Bose sub, which contains a Pioneer 10" shallow sub.
Pioneer 6.75" components to go in the doors and tweeters on the dash.
Alpine MRP-F300 to power all three: 50 watts to the components and bridging the 3/4 channels to power the sub which is 150 watts.
AudioControl LC6i to clean up the signals from the Bose amp then to the Alpine amp.
Continue to use the Bose head unit for now; will add a new head unit later.
All the pieces cost me around $440.
The wiring, building the box...probably around $100 because I'm reusing some wiring, adding in some new wiring/pieces, the MDF, liquid nails, screws, poly-fill, broken bits, etc.

Sounds like you know how to stretch a dollar. I spent about 125 on my installation parts. not including my box.

pty370z · 01-23-2010, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jikhead

If it helps, this is what I'm working on right now:

Been building custom sub-box in the spare tire to replace the Bose sub, which contains a Pioneer 10" shallow sub.
Pioneer 6.75" components to go in the doors and tweeters on the dash.
Alpine MRP-F300 to power all three: 50 watts to the components and bridging the 3/4 channels to power the sub which is 150 watts.
AudioControl LC6i to clean up the signals from the Bose amp then to the Alpine amp.
Continue to use the Bose head unit for now; will add a new head unit later.
All the pieces cost me around $440.
The wiring, building the box...probably around $100 because I'm reusing some wiring, adding in some new wiring/pieces, the MDF, liquid nails, screws, poly-fill, broken bits, etc.

Thanks for your input..

I'm actually trying to not buy a woofer and a separate amplifier, the build a custom box, etc.....

I was looking into using an amp/woofer combo like the ones I listed on the first post of this thread... I think it will suit my bass needs...

My other issue is on what to do for the speakers in the front and whether to use the tweeters or simply forget about them and use 4-way speakers in the doors powered directly from the headunit with no amp for the speakers... Not sure how that setup would sound...

cptspeed · 01-23-2010, 04:18 PM

Kind of hard to answer. The 4 ways will definately sound different than the components. Components really need an amp too.The components put the sound in front of you, versus below you for the 4 ways. Look if you want to go with the 4 ways and no amp, you can always change it later. Every panel in the car is easy to remove. Gotta fly. Leaving work. Good luck!

jikhead · 01-23-2010, 05:54 PM

I searched high and low on the internet to find the lowest prices on my equipment.
In my old WRX, I was running components off the Pioneer headunit without any complaints. It probably could've sounded better and cleaner with a separate amp. You could do your 4-ways and always add separate tweeters later with an inline high-pass filter. I personal think with the 4-ways being low, you won't hear the high's anymore like you do now. Just my thoughts. Just so you know, you can pick up some pretty expensive/quality component speakers pretty cheap if you search long enough. The Pioneers I bought have MSRP of $240...which I found for $118 w/shipping on Ebay.

ddvette9 · 01-23-2010, 11:41 PM

PTY, I was in the same place as you about 6 months ago. This is what I did, and I love it. I left the tweeters alone. I bought some 6.5 2-way door speakers by Pioneer. I bought the Kenwood DDX 514. I also bought the Boss Bass 1200 on Amazon for about 150 (its an all in one amp and sub).

The Kenwood powers the pioneer door speakers and the tweeters, and the sub is plugged into the head unit through RCA's. The whole system cost me about 700 including installation. Its low profile and very nice. It really does sound good, and you can turn everything up loud

If you are looking for simple solution with not a lot of wires and under 1000 for everything, look into going this route.

BTW, in case anyone bashes my suggestions, just know I used to have a JL Audio 10 W7 and their matching 500/1 mono amp. That is the best amp sub combo in the world and just those two things ran me 1000$. I have heard the best, and my setup may not be the "top of the line", but coming from experience it is very nice.

01-23-2010, 03:33 PM	#1 (permalink)
pty370z Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Panama City, Panama Posts: 654 Drives: over the speed limit Rep Power: 17	Audio System from scratch.. Bye bye Bose.. So, I have a Touring 370Z and I'm considering removing all my Bose system so I can install a new headunit, some nice 4-way 6.5" speakers in the doors, remove the rear speakers or just leave them there but unplugged and changing the subwoofer... I would love to spend the least amount of cash possible on this... Has anyone considered using any of these two alternatives for a subwoofer replacement..?? Both of these options are a built-in amp/woofer setup.. They look like good alternatives and occupy very little space... I would appreciate your thoughts... Kenwood KSC-SW10 OR JVC CS-DA1 And one question in the process.. What would I do with the front tweeters (the ones in the dash by the windshield)..?? can I forget about those..?? Thanks..! __________________ 2010 Solid Red 370Z * *Touring-Sport-6MT Black Interior Performance:** STILLEN * BERK * UR * MISHIMOTO * K&N * Z1 * ZSPEED * UPREV * DBA Interior: GT-R Red Start/Stop Button * MSA Floor Mats * PW:JDM Exterior: INGS+1 * SEIBON * FUJIMURA * PW:JDM * UAM * KICS * VOLK Last edited by pty370z; 01-23-2010 at 03:36 PM.

01-23-2010, 03:36 PM	#2 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 852	Go with the kenwood and not to be rude but please use the search button a lot of talk has been going on with taking out the bose system and starting over. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

01-23-2010, 03:43 PM	#4 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 852	Basically if you are going to start over than start over. Buy a nice set of components such as the polk mm series that include a set of tweeters that you would put in place of the old ones. Also make sure to run new wire to all the speakers and use the new crossovers that they include. Amps for a nice small all channel amp look at the alpine pdx 5 that way you can bridge the 4 channels to two and send more power to the front speakers and have a channel for the sub. Install your new head unit and run rca wires from there to the new amp. Take the stock amps and sub out as they will be worthless. Hope that helps you in the right direction. If you need more details or have more questions please ask. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

01-23-2010, 03:47 PM	#5 (permalink)
pty370z Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Panama City, Panama Posts: 654 Drives: over the speed limit Rep Power: 17	Would it be smart to forget about the tweeters, simply install the headunit, get some nice 6.5" 4-way speakers for the doors, power those speakers only with the headunit outputs, and use the Kenwood Amp/Woofer unit I asked about as my subwoofer and that's it..?? I appreciate your help... __________________ 2010 Solid Red 370Z * *Touring-Sport-6MT Black Interior Performance:** STILLEN * BERK * UR * MISHIMOTO * K&N * Z1 * ZSPEED * UPREV * DBA Interior: GT-R Red Start/Stop Button * MSA Floor Mats * PW:JDM Exterior: INGS+1 * SEIBON * FUJIMURA * PW:JDM * UAM * KICS * VOLK

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01-23-2010, 03:53 PM	#6 (permalink)
cptspeed Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: tampa Posts: 799 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 16	I just gutted the old tweets and used their frame as a base for my kicker tweets. If you are just looking for a good setup and not looking for perfection, the ampsub combos will make life a little easier. If you haven't seen slikniks tutorial, look for it. I followed his lead and everything worked well. Except for forgetting to hook up the power antenna wire. Bigaudio troubleshot that one. Good luck!

01-23-2010, 03:56 PM	#8 (permalink)
jikhead Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Little Rock, AR Posts: 425 Drives: 09 370Z Blue 6spd Rep Power: 183	If it helps, this is what I'm working on right now: Been building custom sub-box in the spare tire to replace the Bose sub, which contains a Pioneer 10" shallow sub. Pioneer 6.75" components to go in the doors and tweeters on the dash. Alpine MRP-F300 to power all three: 50 watts to the components and bridging the 3/4 channels to power the sub which is 150 watts. AudioControl LC6i to clean up the signals from the Bose amp then to the Alpine amp. Continue to use the Bose head unit for now; will add a new head unit later. All the pieces cost me around $440. The wiring, building the box...probably around $100 because I'm reusing some wiring, adding in some new wiring/pieces, the MDF, liquid nails, screws, poly-fill, broken bits, etc.

01-23-2010, 04:18 PM	#13 (permalink)
cptspeed Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: tampa Posts: 799 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 16	Kind of hard to answer. The 4 ways will definately sound different than the components. Components really need an amp too.The components put the sound in front of you, versus below you for the 4 ways. Look if you want to go with the 4 ways and no amp, you can always change it later. Every panel in the car is easy to remove. Gotta fly. Leaving work. Good luck!

01-23-2010, 05:54 PM	#14 (permalink)
jikhead Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Little Rock, AR Posts: 425 Drives: 09 370Z Blue 6spd Rep Power: 183	I searched high and low on the internet to find the lowest prices on my equipment. In my old WRX, I was running components off the Pioneer headunit without any complaints. It probably could've sounded better and cleaner with a separate amp. You could do your 4-ways and always add separate tweeters later with an inline high-pass filter. I personal think with the 4-ways being low, you won't hear the high's anymore like you do now. Just my thoughts. Just so you know, you can pick up some pretty expensive/quality component speakers pretty cheap if you search long enough. The Pioneers I bought have MSRP of $240...which I found for $118 w/shipping on Ebay.

01-23-2010, 11:41 PM	#15 (permalink)
ddvette9 Track Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 823 Drives: 2013 Scion FRS Rep Power: 16	PTY, I was in the same place as you about 6 months ago. This is what I did, and I love it. I left the tweeters alone. I bought some 6.5 2-way door speakers by Pioneer. I bought the Kenwood DDX 514. I also bought the Boss Bass 1200 on Amazon for about 150 (its an all in one amp and sub). The Kenwood powers the pioneer door speakers and the tweeters, and the sub is plugged into the head unit through RCA's. The whole system cost me about 700 including installation. Its low profile and very nice. It really does sound good, and you can turn everything up loud If you are looking for simple solution with not a lot of wires and under 1000 for everything, look into going this route. BTW, in case anyone bashes my suggestions, just know I used to have a JL Audio 10 W7 and their matching 500/1 mono amp. That is the best amp sub combo in the world and just those two things ran me 1000$. I have heard the best, and my setup may not be the "top of the line", but coming from experience it is very nice.