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Any updates from members that have installed these mids? I have a deh-80prs and plan on running my mids and highs active, so no need for a component set with
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#1 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Any updates from members that have installed these mids?
I have a deh-80prs and plan on running my mids and highs active, so no need for a component set with crossovers. Just wanna see what you guys think of the lanzars after having them for some time. Also how much rms you are running to them? |
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#2 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#3 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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I got them earlier in the year based on RonRizz's recommendation.. They are amazing and for the price it doesn't get much better.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Gonna order these and try them out since I blew out my type-R's
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Stillen, AAM, Shine Auto, Fujimora, Swift, EVO-R, Carbon Fiber Element, Nitrous Outlet MECP Advanced: CEA26671 Most of what I post here are artistic works of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything I post here as fact. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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I want to get your opinion......I was thinking about a component set of Polk Db6501s....do you think I should go component set or these and some aftermarket tweets for around $100 or so? I have a smaller two channel amp and may have a 4 channel for a small drop-in 10" sub and small box that I would just set in the car with quick disconnects?
I am still researching what I want to do.....I love music and the Z is so loud it would be nice to crank the stereo without worrying about distortion etc.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#7 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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If you are going to take the time to do all the other upgrades, I would opt for the components over just the woofers.
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P99rs Head Unit--- Amps- 2 Pioneer Prs800d --- Zapco ST1000MX---Zapco ST-4XSQ---- SI BM mk5 Subs---SI TM65v2 Midbass--- SI M3 mids--- SI M25 xbl2 tweeters ----- 2016 MECA street class 3rd place at world finals |
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#8 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Get yourself a nice set of components and amp them. If they are good speakers and decent amp, they will sound nice and have plenty of bass, mids and highs. You don't get better shound by masking suck sound with more loud noises. You get good sound by playing good sound.
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#9 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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P99rs Head Unit--- Amps- 2 Pioneer Prs800d --- Zapco ST1000MX---Zapco ST-4XSQ---- SI BM mk5 Subs---SI TM65v2 Midbass--- SI M3 mids--- SI M25 xbl2 tweeters ----- 2016 MECA street class 3rd place at world finals |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Any comments on the Polk DB 6501s as a component set? I have seen on here a few others use them with what seems like good results?
Until I save a little more money I am thinking about just upgrading the components myself.... However, thinking about it a little more it sounds as though I will need to switch all the wiring as I will be running crossovers with whatever component setup I run. I assume this will require a new harness etc....I was thinking about as someone said.....buying everything I want/need and having a local shop install it....I have done that to a certain degree before with my civic with good success. I am looking for a nice double din touch head unit.....no navigation... Here is one I was thinking about.... Pioneer AVHX4600BT 7-Inch USB Bluetooth Hi-Volt Pandora DVD Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN5K63M..._yiMwwbYBTYTBF Any thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by Wakeskater02; 11-28-2015 at 08:26 PM. |
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#11 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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A harness to connect the new head unit to the OEM harness is a good idea. They are cheap and makes installation easier. They also give a diagram for you to follow so you know which wire is the "remote" wire. As for new speaker wire, buy a roll of 12g or even 14 g wire. They will all be coming from. The amp and routed to the door speaker. The romex opens with a simple flip of the locking mechanism. You have to close the door a little to get the locking mechanism to open all the way. Use a sharp utility knife to cut the pin board for space to run the wire through.
YzGyz |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Okay. I bought both speakers and spacers. I was planning to do this myself thinking its plug and play. Took door panels out and I think it is going to be more involved. First, the spacer is a bit tight, maybe I need to make the inner diameter a little bigger so it will fit snugly in the speaker. I also think I need to do more modification so I can secure the new speaker in the OEM mount.
Anyone has pictures of their install of this speakers? Any help or guide would really be appreciated. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Pulled the trigger on these!
and spacers can be found here: https://www.zenclosures.com/Nissan-I...infinitisp.htm *** make sure to note 370z when ordering *** Questions: Do I need any extra clips for the speaker terminals or can I use whatever the factory provided? Dynamat: good idea/bad idea, and if so, how much/what kind for just the doors? Do I need anything like foam parts, stuff like this: https://www.cartoys.com/fast-rings-6...nhancement-kit Are there any stupid fragile nissan factory clips that I'll need special tools for to avoid breaking? |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Are these the updated version? or better?
OPTI6HPRO4 500 Watts RMS / 1000 Watts Peak Power Heavy duty stamped metal basket and Hardware Mounting Depth: 2.95'' 1'' Horn Loaded Compression Tweeter Sensitivity: 94 dB (1W/1M) 1.5'' High Temperature CCAW Voice Coil 75 Oz Super Strontium Ferrite Magnet Structure Sold as : 1 Frequency Response: 180Hz – 22KHz 4 Ohm Impedance Overall Diameter: 6.85'' Cutout Diameter: 5.67'' Last edited by froiwok; 10-03-2017 at 12:04 AM. Reason: forgot to add specs |
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