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Advice for speaker/sub/amp selection

I wouldnt do it if you are amplifying the signal to the speakers. The stock wire will be inadequate, its only 20 ga. If you are running from deck power

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Old 10-19-2009, 08:15 AM   #46 (permalink)
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I wouldnt do it if you are amplifying the signal to the speakers. The stock wire will be inadequate, its only 20 ga. If you are running from deck power than yes, you can wire directly to the crossover from the harness. The crossovers in the stock tweeters are glued to the tweeter.
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:09 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2fast4thelaw View Post
I wouldnt do it if you are amplifying the signal to the speakers. The stock wire will be inadequate, its only 20 ga. If you are running from deck power than yes, you can wire directly to the crossover from the harness. The crossovers in the stock tweeters are glued to the tweeter.
hmm... i guess drilling doesn't very appealing! haha. i'm still thinking about it. for drilling i would just need to drill a hole in the side of the door not the body? how do you guys normally seal the hole back up?
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:11 AM   #48 (permalink)
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oh and if anyone is interested in the kenwood 6140, 6ave.com is having a promotion where you name your price. you can get it for $689, no tax (for me) + free shipping. they are an authorized kenwood dealer per kenwood's website and the reviews for 6ave.com are pretty good from what i saw.
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:14 AM   #49 (permalink)
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No normally we take the harness out of the door the rubber hose looking thing, if it is hallow than great just fish it threw if not we have to figure out were to drill threw the plastic connector on both sides. If you are running anything over 50 watts RMS than I would upgrade other than that you will be fine. I use 50 watts on stock wires all the time. Some people will tell you that it can not handle it and all but the fact is it can very well handle it. Because even when running at full volume you still have adjusted your gain on the amp so your are really never going to see 50 watts RMS.
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:34 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
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hmm... i guess drilling doesn't very appealing! haha. i'm still thinking about it. for drilling i would just need to drill a hole in the side of the door not the body? how do you guys normally seal the hole back up?
The door connectors are easily removed (pull down the gray hinged tab, and close the door slightly to pop the connector off). On the Base model (sans Bose), the connector on the door side has an opening to run the speaker wire. The connector on the body side will need to be trimmed out, to allow the wires to pass through. It takes about 30 seconds with an exacto knife to make this happen. Much better than using the stock wires.
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:06 PM   #51 (permalink)
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The door connectors are easily removed (pull down the gray hinged tab, and close the door slightly to pop the connector off). On the Base model (sans Bose), the connector on the door side has an opening to run the speaker wire. The connector on the body side will need to be trimmed out, to allow the wires to pass through. It takes about 30 seconds with an exacto knife to make this happen. Much better than using the stock wires.
that sounds easier then what I was expecting. i wish someone had pics though. I'll attempt to do this then, hopefully next next weekend. Need to order the rest of my stuff.

any opinion on this installation kit? Kicker CK44 (05ck44) 4 Gauge Amp Kits Amplifier Wiring Kits Car Amplifier Installation & Accessories Car Audio/Video Installation & Accessories Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:23 PM   #52 (permalink)
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That is the stuff I swear by. You will love how flexible it is. Get it it is the best IMO
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Old 10-19-2009, 01:09 PM   #53 (permalink)
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That is the stuff I swear by. You will love how flexible it is. Get it it is the best IMO
the 16g speaker wire is sufficient for my setup?

Kenwood DNX6140
Focal Access 165A1
IDQ12V2.D2 - Image Dynamics 12" IDQ Dual 2 Ohm Subwoofer
Alpine PDX4.100

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Old 10-19-2009, 07:54 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Is the factory wiring really 20 guage? Thats frickin' tiny. Not sure I'd use that with any kind of amp driving 4 ohm speakers.

Some info here:

Speaker Cable Gauge (AWG) Guidelines & Recommendations — Reviews and News from Audioholics
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Old 10-19-2009, 08:46 PM   #55 (permalink)
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I have done plenty of installs with 50 watts going threw 20 and 18 gauge wire. Works just fine. But yes that 16 will work just fine.
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Old 10-20-2009, 12:05 AM   #56 (permalink)
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So I ended up ordering the Alpine PDX-4.100. Got it for only $298 from 6ave.com through their current promotion that I mentioned earlier!
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Old 10-20-2009, 10:40 AM   #57 (permalink)
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That is a good amplifier and a great price on it too. I need to upgrade my old Alpine V-12's in my Armada so I might pick one up.
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Old 10-20-2009, 11:38 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Congrats on the new amp man you will like it.
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Old 10-20-2009, 11:44 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat View Post
No normally we take the harness out of the door the rubber hose looking thing, if it is hallow than great just fish it threw if not we have to figure out were to drill threw the plastic connector on both sides. If you are running anything over 50 watts RMS than I would upgrade other than that you will be fine. I use 50 watts on stock wires all the time. Some people will tell you that it can not handle it and all but the fact is it can very well handle it. Because even when running at full volume you still have adjusted your gain on the amp so your are really never going to see 50 watts RMS.
As usual Matt is correct. One of the biggest overkills is Monster Cable, etc. A couple of years back Audiophile (or maybe Stereo Review) ran a test of speaker wire. Plain old lamp cord performed as well as many of the "boutique" cables.
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Old 10-20-2009, 01:47 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I think I'll run some new 16 guage. I plan on running 150wrms into my 3ohm Boston z6's. Plus I don't think the crossovers on those things will fit in the kicks or doors. They are the size of bricks.
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