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Winter Setup For Roadster Touring Sport

Hey guys, I need help confirming what to buy in order to prepare for the winter. I have a 2010 Roadster Touring Sport. So I have 19'' rays and the

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Old 07-20-2011, 04:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation Winter Setup For Roadster Touring Sport

Hey guys, I need help confirming what to buy in order to prepare for the winter.

I have a 2010 Roadster Touring Sport. So I have 19'' rays and the bigger breaks.
What do I need for a safe and nice looking winter set up? I have read that 18 inch will work better in the snow.

So I am thinking

-18 inch wheels (like TR Motorsport C2 18 x 8.5)
-Bridgestone Blizzak LM-60 225/50R18 (is this the best set up?)
-What spacers do I need for the back in order for it to look better and avoid the oversteer referenced by other owners?

I found the above set up (sans spacers) on tirerack for 1500? Its going to hurt but anything to keep safe since this is my daily driver and I want to keep it. Otherwise Im going to go trade in and get a Jeep so I can survive the Iowa winters.
Would it be better for me to find a set of OEM 18's?

PLEASE HELP! Thank you all!
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Old 07-20-2011, 04:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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snowing already in iowa? wow... it's like 100F here today.

check out AK370's winter setup in the tire forum. LM60's sounds good.
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Old 07-20-2011, 05:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Do the 18's clear the larger brakes?
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Do the 18's clear the larger brakes?
^ yes they do.

Hey all, what's the difference between the two Blizzaks available to us (according to Tirerack) I believe the 25 and the LM 60
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Old 07-20-2011, 09:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If snow is really bad in your area, I would go with a stagger size to avoid the snap oversteer
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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if you're interested... i have a set of pirelli winter sottos sized 245/40/19 and 285/35/19 (i have a nismo 370z). Used it sparingly, def less than 1200miles on it. i never really drove my 370 during the winter, it was a stupid splurge on tires lol

paid 1350 for them... i'll take $1000 shipped.
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:47 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Hmm... sounds like winter arrives early in Iowa.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Winter hasn't arrived. It has been over 100 degrees the last week or so. Just trying to get ready because it WILL come. I might have to say goodbye to my awesome Z. I just wonder if I will get enough back for trade in. Im going to need to get at least 40 k (hopefully more) from the dealer. Anyone deem this possible?
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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instead of 1500 on wheels how about 2000 on a beater with 4x4
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Old 07-22-2011, 11:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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33K if you are lucky.
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Old 07-22-2011, 11:49 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cossie1600 View Post
If snow is really bad in your area, I would go with a stagger size to avoid the snap oversteer


since im phasing out my G35C in the next 2 years i am planning to do LM60's in 225/40/18 & 245/40/18 setup (stock for G35C) this winter using my stock wheels.

my Z hibernates.
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Old 07-22-2011, 11:51 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Iowa City guy here. I'm actually looking for a Z but unfortunately I don't like the roadster. I haven't decided if I want to drive the Z in the winter or not when I get it. With winter tires it would actually be a better and safer ride than my current car, which sucks horribly in the snow. My biggest concern is damaging the Z from the road salt and other gunk. Is that something that would significantly lower the resale value?
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Old 07-22-2011, 01:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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My biggest concern is damaging the Z from the road salt and other gunk. Is that something that would significantly lower the resale value?
not necessarily. first clearbra your front end so that you minimize salt and rock kickup penetrating your paint.

if you wash your car frequently when temps are over 30F, chances are your corrosion can be kept at a minimum. if you continue to cycle your car by defrosting it in the garage every night you will accelerate corrosion... so i keep my dd's outside after driving in salt to keep the moisture frozen.

salt by itself doesnt corrode as fast as salt + moisture.

then do a through clensing in the spring. while it will never match the non-corroded hiberating Z, it won't be too bad...
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Old 07-22-2011, 03:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmusignac View Post
Hey guys, I need help confirming what to buy in order to prepare for the winter.

I have a 2010 Roadster Touring Sport. So I have 19'' rays and the bigger breaks.
What do I need for a safe and nice looking winter set up? I have read that 18 inch will work better in the snow.

So I am thinking

-18 inch wheels (like TR Motorsport C2 18 x 8.5)
-Bridgestone Blizzak LM-60 225/50R18 (is this the best set up?)
-What spacers do I need for the back in order for it to look better and avoid the oversteer referenced by other owners?

I found the above set up (sans spacers) on tirerack for 1500? Its going to hurt but anything to keep safe since this is my daily driver and I want to keep it. Otherwise Im going to go trade in and get a Jeep so I can survive the Iowa winters.
Would it be better for me to find a set of OEM 18's?

PLEASE HELP! Thank you all!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6MT View Post
Hmm... sounds like winter arrives early in Iowa.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaughanabe13 View Post
Iowa City guy here. I'm actually looking for a Z but unfortunately I don't like the roadster. I haven't decided if I want to drive the Z in the winter or not when I get it. With winter tires it would actually be a better and safer ride than my current car, which sucks horribly in the snow. My biggest concern is damaging the Z from the road salt and other gunk. Is that something that would significantly lower the resale value?
Honestly WHERE have you guys all been??? So far, I only know Steve (srbrubak), myself, Ryan (boris00), and nismodreamer from Iowa. The first 3 folks are all from the Cedar Rapids area

You all need to hook up with us. We need more Z's in the area

As for your original question, don't drive your Z in the winter Just get a 10 year old beater that you don't care about.
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Old 07-22-2011, 03:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
not necessarily. first clearbra your front end so that you minimize salt and rock kickup penetrating your paint.

if you wash your car frequently when temps are over 30F, chances are your corrosion can be kept at a minimum. if you continue to cycle your car by defrosting it in the garage every night you will accelerate corrosion... so i keep my dd's outside after driving in salt to keep the moisture frozen.

salt by itself doesnt corrode as fast as salt + moisture.

then do a through clensing in the spring. while it will never match the non-corroded hiberating Z, it won't be too bad...
must be single most important "mod". Ever. Period.
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