I can't believe that you've had them on all this time! Mine broke the very first time I torqued the lugs. Too bad you didn't find this thread before it happened. I can sympathize, my dealer was completely useless and I ended up having to do it myself. I was steaming for a few days.

I've had the car for 2+ years, 11k, and never taken the wheels off, so no need to look at them. Now that I am finally getting to springs and wheels, this is when I first touched the lugs.

So guess what I was doing tonight..... yup Swift Spring install. Springs have been sitting in my garage for the last month waiting on my H&R spacers. Take the first locking wheel nut off and it explodes. My friend who has been a mechanic for a LONG time looks at me and says he's NEVER seen one of those break. Looks like we'll have to drill the stud out and press a new one in. My issue is that these incorrect wheel nuts screw up your wheel as well. Has anyone had their wheel fixed or replaced? I'm wondering since the dealership put them on my car when I bought it then aren't the responsible for the damage from putting the wrong part on my car?

To add insult to injury it turns out the wheel spacers don't fit properly either although I was assured they would fit..... double grrr....

If your dealer put them on then they are responsible for removing them and repairing/replacing any wheel that is damaged in the process.

The extractor tool works well without having to resort to drilling. Still a slight chance it could scratch as there isn't a lot of clearance. Adding some tape around it might help.

I bought the car from a dealership off the Island but they made arrangements to have my local dealership take care of it. Removed the broken lug and replaced the locks with the correct part. No charge and no hassel. I'll take a look at the wheels when we put the rear springs in tonight.....

My advice is to take a 19mm socket, with 12 points (and hammer it on), it worked perfect, took it off with air tools easily. The one I used was slightly cracked, so it easily hammered on, I just wish I had thought about it earlier before I tried to drill the edges of the lugnut to get a grip (didn't work) and then tried to drill out the stud (and gave up because it was taking too long). Sears makes a tool called Lugout, that I bought, but it couldn't get enough grip on what was left on mine (but might work for you). I am debating on taking the wheel to a dealer and complaining. My issue is the dealer I bought the car from is out of business - Nissan blew this one.

Nissan knew, they have the correct parts available. It was the dealers that screwed up and installed the wrong part.

^^ I don't know if I agree with this. I bought my car right away in Jan 2009 - If Nissan knew, they didn't prep the dealers right, so in my mind, they blew it.

That part is true. The part was available but the dealers didn't know about it. They didn't issue an advisory until some months later after numerous complaints.

At this point your best bet is probably to call Nissan Consumer Affairs and tell them what happened and that your dealer is out of business and they should set you up for a free repair somewhere else.

Hook up with Z club of San Diego ZCSD.org largest club in So Cal

Ever hear of a PM?

right now im in the same situation.if there is a tsb out does that mean i can just bring this in to the dealer and they would honor my warranty and not charge me for labor and parts without any hassle because i feel like the car is pulling to the side or prolly just me not comfortable knowing im driving with a broken wheel lock?

I just got a 2011 and this problem is still around. I added H&R spacers to the rear and went to put the wheel back on and fudged both wheel locks. One is spinning freely and the other snapped. Then to search around on the forum to find out it's the incorrect wheel locks. What is going on Nissan?

It's not Nissan's problem. You've got aftermarket spacers and (probably) not OEM studs. IMHO, the biggest problem with stud issues is over-torquing.

Well... don't worry, it's an easy fix.

I searched around on the forum and found out that the wrong wheel locks were used. They used the wheel lock with no washer while all my other lugs had the washer.

Check out the first post and the tsb and you'll know what I'm talking about.

It is the dealer doing it not Nissan corporate, but still very sad that this is still happening. It is also sad that all the other cars your dealer sold are probably driving around with the same issue.

So my wheel lock exploded while I was swapping back to my summer rims. I'm calling the dealer today. Thanks for posting the TSB and all the information guys. I was going to go and waste my own money on this until I found out what you guys went through! I have the wrong wheel locks!

This^

And you'd be surprised how little torque ~85 ft-lbs is when you do it with a torque wrench properly in small increments around the star. I cringe at places that use air tools to tighten wheel lug nuts, which is just about every mechanic shop in existence.

yah, i sometimes use my impact for loosening lugs on the fly, but never to tighten them.

i use my 18v driver for that with low torque setting...and do the rest by hand.

The last shop probably tightened my Z's lugs to 120-130 ft/lbs, at LEAST. My electric Dewalt 18v impact had issues getting them loose. My truck on the other hand requires 150 ft/lbs I believe, and my impact was able to take them off pretty easily.

Oh yeah, what cheesed me the most about that, was the fact that on the receipt, it insisted they tightened down to 95 ft/lbs on all corners...

The dealer decided to screw me over and said they wouldn't fix it for free. I called my friend who works for another Car dealer and he is going to remove the broken lock for me. I'll pay him in booze.

The next question is, since I refuse to get any wheel locks again, can you point me to the exact lug nut? I am going to order 4 to replace the locks. I want to make sure it matches the other lugs since I have the forged wheels from the sport package.

You can pick them up at any Nissan or Infiniti dealer. Part #40224-JK00A

There is also an OEM replacement part by Dorman that is cheaper and looks identical in my opinion.

Dorman PN# 611294
Rockauto.com Search Link

is the quality identical?

Yes, sold singularly.

When ever I have a service that involves taking my wheels off, the first thing i do when I get home is I loosen all the lug nuts and then torque them properly by hand.

My friend works for another dealership, he came out and took the broken lock off in 10 seconds with the same tool mentioned earlier in this thread. No damage to the wheel. I will not be going to be going to the crap service department at Nissan anymore. They wanted to charge 3 hours labor, new stud, and other misc bs just so that they could make commission.

I am going to order 4 lugs now, also I am going to invest in a torque wrench so that I can manually torque my own lugs in the future.

Do NOT buy these
 

I ordered the McGard wheel locks because of this recommendation... They are incorrect, you should take them off your car, they are just as dangerous as the incorrect ones people got... They aren't correct because the width isn't wide enough, they are so narrow they actually BENT the washers

Just my 2 cents

Wheel locks are friggen pointless anyway. If people want your wheels, they'll get em.

I agree completely, but if it persuades the guy who's gonna jack my rims to jack YOUR rims because you only have 1 set of wheel locks vs my 3 sets, then I'll spend the extra $50 to do so...

wheel lock problem
 

Not having read this thread I took my recently purchased 2010 Touring/Sport Z to a local shop and had them install wheel spacers, 20s and 15s.

When I picked up my car they were unable to tighten the two rear wheel locks. They were just spinning and wouldn't go on or off. They said the fronts were fine. He said to come back the next day, but I went to Nissan instead and they told me all four studs were spinning. They were the wrong wheel locks of course.

My question, is this the installers fault, did they over-torque the wheel locks? Why did only these four studs wind up spinning if they were not over-tourqued?

My dealer tracked the record of the car and found the original selling dealer installed the wrong locks so I should get it warrantied. They will speak with the Nissan service rep this week.

The dealer says they will drill the studs out from the back. Is this the best way to get them out?

It's going to be about the only safe way with the wheel still on. They could try to split the locks from the front, but that would risk damage to the rim.
:merrychristmas:

Spinning Wheel Studs
 

I recently purchased 2010 Touring/Sport Z and took it to a local shop and had them install wheel spacers, 20s and 15s.

When I picked up my car they were unable to tighten the two rear wheel locks. They were just spinning and wouldn't go on or off. They said the fronts were fine. He said to come back the next day, but I went to Nissan instead and they told me all four studs with wheel locks were spinning. They were the wrong wheel locks of course.

My question, is this the installers fault, did they over-torque the wheel locks? Why did only these four studs wind up spinning if they were not over-tourqued?

My dealer tracked the record of the car and found the original selling dealer installed the wrong locks so I should get it warrantied. They will speak with the Nissan service rep this week.

The dealer says they will drill the studs out from the back. Is this the best way to get them out?

My 2013 370z nismo didn't come with wheel locks. I see in the TSB .pdf that the wheel locks are for 2009. Will these work on the 2013 nismo?

How often do u have to check if Ur custom rims are on tight when I bought them they said to check um every Hun miles is that true I worry the rim is always loose I don't want to brake a lug nut

Sounds like your wheel studs arnt long enough with the spacers added.... You can buy extended grade 8 wheel studs from Z1motorsports :happydance:

If they are torqued properly then you dont ever have to check them unless you remove a wheel, or see one loose. I personally like to check mine visually occassionally, and check the torque before long road trips.

I had to swap the stud on my old GMC yukon after a tire shop stripped it bare

Hammer out the old one, then use a tool that is kind of like a nut with a large spacer behind it and as you tighten it, the new lug will be basically press fit back into the hole. Takes a lot of torque so you'll probably need a cheater bar to get it all the way in, but the install should cost no more than 20 bucks if you get a wheel stud installer with bearings like this thing or basically free if you use a nut with a lot of washers

Edit: I'm dumb, this topic is 14 pages lmao