19” Work Meister S1 specs to clear akebono brakes?

[Hybrids]

Looking into these wheels and need help choosing what specs to get. I am running adjustable FUCAs, rear camber arms, traction arms on BC BR coils. Want to go with the stance look. I don't want a crazy amount of camber but a tiny amount to get the look and fitment right wouldn't hurt. I am also wondering can our cars fit a 10.5 up front and an 11.5 in the rear without rubbing or any issues? I know I will have to have the fenders rolled too and most likely do a slight tire stretch.

Work makes so many different disk types and offsets Im not sure where to begin with what might fit. Hoping someone running the same brakes setup can help me out. Appreciate the help…

[OptionZero]

Before you do anything, you need to read.

This thread to understand wheel fitment generally:
Wheel Fitment 101: START HERE

This thread on Work Meisters for our cars
Work Meisters S1 3P

The meister has been around forever. So has our chassis. The knowledge has been gained through the experience of others. Use it.









Read those









Seriously read the damn threads










Are you done reading?
















Ok so by now you should know:
Work makes a specific face for the S1 called “TX” to clear our brakes. Buy from a reputable dealer and triple check to make sure they order that for you.

If you are in California, hit up Chris cu (Instagram: @eight8motorsports) or Tom (@speedimageUSA) and they’ll take care of you. Chris was on here as CarbonFZ and has gone thru multiple sets of works on various Nissan/Infiniti chassis. He now sells wheels.

Our cars can fit basically any size width you want because there is enormous room under the fenders, provided you use the adjustment from your new arms, which I hope are SPL or at least voodoo13.

You said you want the stance look but without “crazy amounts of camber”. This is an oxymoron since camber is how you fit aggressive wheels. The “crazy” is relative. -3 or -4 seems like a lot to someone new to aftermarket wheel fitment, but it’s…pretty much what everyone that tracks their car runs. Camber is good. Now, there’s some nut job drift or VIP folks who wanna run -7 or something and that’s another level

Height, tire size, and fender work will all affect exactly how much camber you need.

Since you are static on coilovers, you want to get this right before paying for special order wheels. Air guys can run whatever

For reference, I have 20x11 +15 and 275/30 in front, -3 camber, if you wanted to get an idea of what’s possible.


For ***** and giggles, here is Chris running negative offsets front and rear on bags:
Work Meister S1 3P 19x10.5-21 and 19x11.5-10

And here is his more sane setup:
Work Meister S1 3P 19x10+11 and 19x12+12
(Note his white car had no adjustable arms in front which he regrets)

[Hybrids]

Originally Posted by OptionZero

Before you do anything, you need to read.

This thread to understand wheel fitment generally:
Wheel Fitment 101: START HERE

This thread on Work Meisters for our cars
Work Meisters S1 3P

The meister has been around forever. So has our chassis. The knowledge has been gained through the experience of others. Use it.









Read those









Seriously read the damn threads










Are you done reading?
















Ok so by now you should know:
Work makes a specific face for the S1 called “TX” to clear our brakes. Buy from a reputable dealer and triple check to make sure they order that for you.

If you are in California, hit up Chris cu (Instagram: @eight8motorsports) or Tom (@speedimageUSA) and they’ll take care of you. Chris was on here as CarbonFZ and has gone thru multiple sets of works on various Nissan/Infiniti chassis. He now sells wheels.

Our cars can fit basically any size width you want because there is enormous room under the fenders, provided you use the adjustment from your new arms, which I hope are SPL or at least voodoo13.

You said you want the stance look but without “crazy amounts of camber”. This is an oxymoron since camber is how you fit aggressive wheels. The “crazy” is relative. -3 or -4 seems like a lot to someone new to aftermarket wheel fitment, but it’s…pretty much what everyone that tracks their car runs. Camber is good. Now, there’s some nut job drift or VIP folks who wanna run -7 or something and that’s another level

Height, tire size, and fender work will all affect exactly how much camber you need.

Since you are static on coilovers, you want to get this right before paying for special order wheels. Air guys can run whatever

For reference, I have 20x11 +15 and 275/30 in front, -3 camber, if you wanted to get an idea of what’s possible.


For ***** and giggles, here is Chris running negative offsets front and rear on bags:
Work Meister S1 3P 19x10.5-21 and 19x11.5-10

And here is his more sane setup:
Work Meister S1 3P 19x10+11 and 19x12+12
(Note his white car had no adjustable arms in front which he regrets)

Thanks. The crazy amount of camber statement was more towards what you said with the -7, etc. I am running all voodoo13 arms besides toe arms cause i could not get true style coils at the time.

[OptionZero]

There's no "need" for true style coilovers. At the upper limits of track use, there may be advantage (theoretically). For the street, there's nothing you'll ever feel

Consider replacing your stock midlinks (the arm with the bucket for the rear spring) with the SPL mid links:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...mid-links.html

They offer more spring height adjustment and toe adjustment, in addition to replacing some rubber bushings with metal ones

Note these require a 2.5 inner diameter spring

Also:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...ckout-kit.html
With adjustability through all the arms, you want to lock the stock eccentric bolts in place

[justin_boy]

wow i feel so famous. but seriously take option zero's advice. this kinda advice doesnt come easy or cheap

[Hybrids]

Originally Posted by OptionZero

There's no "need" for true style coilovers. At the upper limits of track use, there may be advantage (theoretically). For the street, there's nothing you'll ever feel

Consider replacing your stock midlinks (the arm with the bucket for the rear spring) with the SPL mid links:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...mid-links.html

They offer more spring height adjustment and toe adjustment, in addition to replacing some rubber bushings with metal ones

Note these require a 2.5 inner diameter spring

Also:
https://www.splparts.com/products/37...ckout-kit.html
With adjustability through all the arms, you want to lock the stock eccentric bolts in place

Did not know they made adjustable end links buckets just toe arms to get rid of the bucket completely. Going to have to hold off on them for now though. But will keep them in mind. I got the spl lockout kit when I bought the voodoo camber arms. So those will be locked.

[OptionZero]

The SPL midlinks are a complete replacement for that whole arm, its pretty cool. Adjustable rod arm at the end for toe, plus a threaded seat for spring height

If you had true style, this entire arm is replaced with a straightforward toe arm, no spring mechanism needed