The wheels look that way in the air. They need the weight of the car to sit properly. Still will need a small spacer to clear the breaks.

I have Work wheels 19x9.5 +24 on the front with about 1 inch drop (Swift springs) and they fit perfect.

You get "a lot" of camber gain in bump so checking the wheel with suspension on full droop as in the picture is FUBAR - totally misleading.

I run 18 x 9.5 ET37 with 13mm spacer and 265/35R18 tyres and at 3.5 deg neg camber I meet the requirement for sidewall at the top of the tyre to be inside the guard lip. Your wheels outer lip are another 7mm further outboard and should be fairly neat, especially immediately above the centre of the rim.

To be totally safe, you may wish to install adjustable FUCA so you can play with camber, or just lower it an inch or so.

Check the photo's of my car at ride height (I am lowered about a half-inch from OEM - the car "sits" low because tyre OD is ~645mm)

Thank you BG! Guess I will have to get another shop this week and slap a tyre on the front and put it on the ground to see where the fronts are at.

I just would have assumed the mechanic at the shop would know this and would do it in the first place?
How much camber can I go without affecting performance?

Will 255/35 on the front be a good choice?

You are welcome.

isnt a 19x9.5 +17 a common fitment for a Z ive seen it plenty of times like someone said here before put some tires on and drop it.

Its a little on the aggressive side. 19x9.5 +22 is more common.

A little negative camber from the drop should have you sitting right where you need to be.

Yeah +22 seems like common size he at +17 didn't think he would have issue for them too say he 30 mm out seems crazy

Well he has the car in the air with the suspension unloaded so that's not an accurate number. Getting the +17 to work is one thing but after adding a 5mm spacer its only going to make things worse.

Yea instead of adding a spacer I want to maybe machine the brake caliper if possible. I think it only barely touches with the new wheel on.

The wheel is loose, gonna bobble and touch the caliper, I'm sure after putting the lug nuts and torquing em properly the problem goes away.

Tyres sizes front/rear need to be within ~2% OD.

255/35R19 is in the sweet spot for a 9.5" rim width and is around 660mm in diameter ...

For rears you'll need a tyre that is close in diameter, so maybe 295/30R18 is a good choice without going uber-wide and costing a motsa

Camber in OEM is fixed, you can gain some camber by lowering with shorter springs otherwise you will need adjustable upper arms. There is a cheap solution and a "good" solution - I have the good solution (SPL) but there are cheaper solutions but you get what you pay for.

With more than 1.5 deg negative, unless your toe setting is spot on, you will risk feathering and additional wear in the inside edge of the tyre and shortened tyre life as a consequence. I run 2.0 - 2.5 neg and a titch of toe-in on the road and up to 4.5 camber and 2mm of toe-out on the track at the front, BUT I also have a hoist, setup plates, camber/caster gauge, scales and string lines on my setup pad in my man-cave so I don;t have to go to an alignment shop before and after each track day. I do know that if I DD the car with track settings I can chew out my dd tyres in a week to 10 days, so it is not something you want to do regularly if the Z is your DD

You are going to have to experiment a little I think

Tyres sizes front/rear need to be within ~2% OD.

255/35R19 is in the sweet spot for a 9.5" rim width and is around 660mm in diameter ...

For rears you'll need a tyre that is close in diameter, so maybe 295/30R18 is a good choice without going uber-wide and costing a motsa

Hope so.