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-   -   My Wheel Dilemma! (http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/120477-my-wheel-dilemma.html)

shadow85 03-20-2017 07:23 AM

My Wheel Dilemma!
 
You may remember me posting threads/posts a few months back about choosing Work wheels and wheather they were going to fit on Australian spec Nissan 370Z.

Well I finally got my Work Meister S13P wheels today after a long 4 month wait.
The specs i ordered are:

Front: 19x9.5 +17 T disk
Rear: 19x10.5 +12 R Disk

Tried to have a local shop fit them. Results arn't very welcoming.

The front wheel pokes out 30mm past the guards, which is illegal here.
It also very slightly scrapes the brake caliper.

https://s6.postimg.org/x169f6cgh/20170320_154031.jpg
https://s6.postimg.org/6hdod1bwx/20170320_154025.jpg
https://s6.postimg.org/9loc9tspd/20170320_154041.jpg
https://s6.postimg.org/n16rljbtd/20170320_154048.jpg

With it poking out that much, I am sure it will look weird.
Im sure others here have this wheel with this spec on the front and it doesn't poke out that much rite?

Is there anything I can do here to have it fit/look better?

The only thing I can think of is getting wider or flared guards by 30mm.

Zerafian 03-20-2017 07:38 AM

well youll need 5mm spacers so the wheel isnt touching the caliper if thats happening. You could always buy proper front suspension parts and put it to probably -3 camber or so, which isnt that bad. Make sure to put 245/30 tires on the front as well, as a minimum so you avoid stretch.

At this point, youll need to mount tires and test out what works depending on your ride height. You will need a decent amount of negative camber though, thats for sure but thats not a bad thing...depending on how negative you go obviously

Im sure someone here will give you more specific details or maybe correct me if Im wrong.

shadow85 03-20-2017 07:48 AM

Well I really didn't want to touch camber, but if I have to then I guess I will. I don't understand why these specs make the wheel poke out so much. This is what Ravspec reccommended me also.

Isn't negative camber going to effect performance?

TerribleONE 03-20-2017 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow85 (Post 3629505)
Well I really didn't want to touch camber, but if I have to then I guess I will. I don't understand why these specs make the wheel poke out so much. This is what Ravspec reccommended me also.

Isn't negative camber going to effect performance?

Yes in a positive way ( as long as you don't go to far) but once you add spacers to clear the caliper your issue is only going to be worse. I'd contact Ravspec

Zat_Zuma 03-20-2017 10:59 AM

Your offset is too little at +17.

I run a +42 on the front with a 5 mm spacer to run just under the fender with a 275/35 series tire. I could run it with a 10 mm spacer to be closer to the fender but I prefer a slightly tucked. That way I don't have to run a big negative camber to prevent fender scrub.

Look at what the stock offsets are


But to each its own.

shadow85 03-20-2017 01:19 PM

Does this mean I am screwed?

TerribleONE 03-20-2017 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow85 (Post 3629636)
Does this mean I am screwed?

If you don't want to run more camber, yes.

Are you stock height? When you load the suspension they will tuck in a little but with the 5mm spacer they are probably still gonna poke.

shadow85 03-20-2017 02:18 PM

Yes I am completly stock on everything atm.

Look at the specs reccommended here:
WORK Meister S13P – 19″ – 370Z/G35/G37 – RavSpec

19x9.5 +17 is the first one!

Now I am already thinking of selling and re-ordering with a different offset.

jamtinge 03-20-2017 02:31 PM

if you are not planning to do anything suspension wise, you need 32 offset with 9.5 width or higher to stay inside the fender

shadow85 03-20-2017 04:19 PM

Lol why the hell was I told these specs would fit?

shadow85 03-20-2017 09:18 PM

So if I do suspension work, does that mean I can get the wheel to sit more inwards to the centre?

OptionZero 03-20-2017 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow85 (Post 3629713)
Lol why the hell was I told these specs would fit?

they do fit for people that know what they're doing

OptionZero 03-20-2017 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow85 (Post 3629839)
So if I do suspension work, does that mean I can get the wheel to sit more inwards to the centre?

how the **** have you not done any research into how wheel fitment works when you've been posting so many goddam times about wanting wheels

wheysted32 03-20-2017 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero (Post 3629846)
how the **** have you not done any research into how wheel fitment works when you've been posting so many goddam times about wanting wheels

Your posts are always so angry...u ok dude?

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OptionZero 03-20-2017 09:51 PM

sick of the same dumbass **** being posted over and over

cooltoy 03-20-2017 09:58 PM

The wheels look that way in the air. They need the weight of the car to sit properly. Still will need a small spacer to clear the breaks.

nis350 03-21-2017 12:14 AM

I have Work wheels 19x9.5 +24 on the front with about 1 inch drop (Swift springs) and they fit perfect.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow85 (Post 3629505)
Well I really didn't want to touch camber, but if I have to then I guess I will. I don't understand why these specs make the wheel poke out so much. This is what Ravspec reccommended me also.

Isn't negative camber going to effect performance?


BGTV8 03-21-2017 06:04 AM

2 Attachment(s)
You get "a lot" of camber gain in bump so checking the wheel with suspension on full droop as in the picture is FUBAR - totally misleading.

I run 18 x 9.5 ET37 with 13mm spacer and 265/35R18 tyres and at 3.5 deg neg camber I meet the requirement for sidewall at the top of the tyre to be inside the guard lip. Your wheels outer lip are another 7mm further outboard and should be fairly neat, especially immediately above the centre of the rim.

To be totally safe, you may wish to install adjustable FUCA so you can play with camber, or just lower it an inch or so.

Check the photo's of my car at ride height (I am lowered about a half-inch from OEM - the car "sits" low because tyre OD is ~645mm)

shadow85 03-21-2017 08:06 AM

Thank you BG! Guess I will have to get another shop this week and slap a tyre on the front and put it on the ground to see where the fronts are at.

I just would have assumed the mechanic at the shop would know this and would do it in the first place?
How much camber can I go without affecting performance?

Will 255/35 on the front be a good choice?

cooltoy 03-21-2017 09:36 AM

You are welcome.

teggy 03-21-2017 09:39 AM

isnt a 19x9.5 +17 a common fitment for a Z ive seen it plenty of times like someone said here before put some tires on and drop it.

TerribleONE 03-21-2017 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by teggy (Post 3630049)
isnt a 19x9.5 +17 a common fitment for a Z ive seen it plenty of times like someone said here before put some tires on and drop it.

Its a little on the aggressive side. 19x9.5 +22 is more common.

JC-Nismo 03-21-2017 10:19 AM

A little negative camber from the drop should have you sitting right where you need to be.

teggy 03-21-2017 11:26 AM

Yeah +22 seems like common size he at +17 didn't think he would have issue for them too say he 30 mm out seems crazy

TerribleONE 03-21-2017 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by teggy (Post 3630147)
Yeah +22 seems like common size he at +17 didn't think he would have issue for them too say he 30 mm out seems crazy

Well he has the car in the air with the suspension unloaded so that's not an accurate number. Getting the +17 to work is one thing but after adding a 5mm spacer its only going to make things worse.

shadow85 03-21-2017 02:21 PM

Yea instead of adding a spacer I want to maybe machine the brake caliper if possible. I think it only barely touches with the new wheel on.

loiro370z 03-21-2017 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow85 (Post 3630279)
Yea instead of adding a spacer I want to maybe machine the brake caliper if possible. I think it only barely touches with the new wheel on.

The wheel is loose, gonna bobble and touch the caliper, I'm sure after putting the lug nuts and torquing em properly the problem goes away.

BGTV8 03-21-2017 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow85 (Post 3629993)
Thank you BG! Guess I will have to get another shop this week and slap a tyre on the front and put it on the ground to see where the fronts are at.

I just would have assumed the mechanic at the shop would know this and would do it in the first place?
How much camber can I go without affecting performance?

Will 255/35 on the front be a good choice?

Tyres sizes front/rear need to be within ~2% OD.

255/35R19 is in the sweet spot for a 9.5" rim width and is around 660mm in diameter ...

For rears you'll need a tyre that is close in diameter, so maybe 295/30R18 is a good choice without going uber-wide and costing a motsa

BGTV8 03-21-2017 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow85 (Post 3629993)
Thank you BG! Guess I will have to get another shop this week and slap a tyre on the front and put it on the ground to see where the fronts are at.

I just would have assumed the mechanic at the shop would know this and would do it in the first place?
How much camber can I go without affecting performance?

Will 255/35 on the front be a good choice?

Camber in OEM is fixed, you can gain some camber by lowering with shorter springs otherwise you will need adjustable upper arms. There is a cheap solution and a "good" solution - I have the good solution (SPL) but there are cheaper solutions but you get what you pay for.

With more than 1.5 deg negative, unless your toe setting is spot on, you will risk feathering and additional wear in the inside edge of the tyre and shortened tyre life as a consequence. I run 2.0 - 2.5 neg and a titch of toe-in on the road and up to 4.5 camber and 2mm of toe-out on the track at the front, BUT I also have a hoist, setup plates, camber/caster gauge, scales and string lines on my setup pad in my man-cave so I don;t have to go to an alignment shop before and after each track day. I do know that if I DD the car with track settings I can chew out my dd tyres in a week to 10 days, so it is not something you want to do regularly if the Z is your DD

You are going to have to experiment a little I think

Tyres sizes front/rear need to be within ~2% OD.

255/35R19 is in the sweet spot for a 9.5" rim width and is around 660mm in diameter ...

For rears you'll need a tyre that is close in diameter, so maybe 295/30R18 is a good choice without going uber-wide and costing a motsa

shadow85 03-21-2017 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loiro370z (Post 3630300)
The wheel is loose, gonna bobble and touch the caliper, I'm sure after putting the lug nuts and torquing em properly the problem goes away.

Hope so.

shadow85 03-22-2017 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BGTV8 (Post 3630336)
For rears you'll need a tyre that is close in diameter, so maybe 295/30R18 is a good choice without going uber-wide and costing a motsa

Do you mean 295/30R19?

I don't see anyone using a smaller tire diameter on a larger wheel, or is this normal?

KngScottieV 03-22-2017 06:47 AM

I'd assume he meant 295/30R19. You don't want to put 18" tires on a 19" rim.

OptionZero 03-22-2017 02:03 PM

the fact you had to ask if an 18 would work on a 19 is amazing

NorthStyle 03-22-2017 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow85 (Post 3630377)
Hope so.

Wait, you said the wheel is touching the caliper, but you've never actually bolted it down and slowly spun it to see if it was actually touching?

BGTV8 03-22-2017 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow85 (Post 3630611)
Do you mean 295/30R19?

I don't see anyone using a smaller tire diameter on a larger wheel, or is this normal?

19" of course ............... cannot type ................

shadow85 03-22-2017 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero (Post 3630786)
the fact you had to ask if an 18 would work on a 19 is amazing

Lol

shadow85 03-22-2017 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NorthStyle (Post 3630808)
Wait, you said the wheel is touching the caliper, but you've never actually bolted it down and slowly spun it to see if it was actually touching?

Nope, the mechanic at the shop just quickly threw the front wheel on whilst in air, and said too much poke.

He didn't bolt it down or try it on the ground with a tire.

cooltoy 03-22-2017 06:49 PM

You don't need a mechanic to put rims on. Get them to mount the tires and do it your self at home.

OptionZero 03-22-2017 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow85 (Post 3630885)
Nope, the mechanic at the shop just quickly threw the front wheel on whilst in air, and said too much poke.

He didn't bolt it down or try it on the ground with a tire.

your mechanic doesn't know jack **** about wheel fitment

its hilarious imagining you and that dude trying to figure this out

there must be some performance alignment place around that knows how to do some really basic **** and can explain it to you

it would have to be some place getting paid by the hour, cuz trying to do it on this forum just aint worth it

wheysted32 03-22-2017 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero (Post 3631012)
your mechanic doesn't know jack **** about wheel fitment

its hilarious imagining you and that dude trying to figure this out

You ever think about not getting on the forum? Doesnt seem like it makes you happy...

Do stuff that makes you happy.

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