Oh..... bahahahaha!

So when someone adds a wideband AFR meter for a gauge in the console, are they tapping into the Primary OEM sensors, or replacing a primary OEM sensor?

Or are they replacing the secondary OEM sensor?

Or are they requiring their own bung to be added on to the piping?


Just wondering if you can turn off the OEM Secondary sensors, and replace them with an aftermarket AFR gauge in those bungs?

I had an aftermarket O2 sensor installed in a new bung for my gauge.

Ask for them to play with the throttle mapping for better response, if an auto, to bump up the torque tables for firmer shifts, and otherwise you are looking at a wee bit more ignition advance and slightly leaner AFR's up top.

If they know what they are doing with VVEL, you might ask them to play with that too, I suppose.

OP I thought you were selling your car?

OEM's are wideband, so you could either get data from them or add a new sensor (or two).

I'd just use OEM -- why spend money on sensors you don't need.

You can adjust the sensitivity on the 2ndary O2's. No idea if OEM ECU cares if they are there or not if you switch off the corresponding DTC. Probably not.

Would the gauge just tie into the OEM wiring, or would I splice?

Would that be a problem having 2 sensors feeding data to 1 gauge, or does the gauge only read from 1 bank...

Having not installed an AFR gauge before, I'm :confused: on all of it. But I want to learn.

Its a 3rd afr sensor. With how fussy the electronics are on this car I would not tap the oem sensors. An lc1 gauge with afr sensor is like $180.

I run 2 primaries from the stock bung location. The LC1 afr gauge is tapped at my downpipe. Obviosuly its a little different for NA