Getting UpRev done, what should I specifically ask the tune to include?
 

Hey everyone! I'm getting my car tuned later this week and with all my mods below, what should I be specifically asking the tuner to do. This is my first time doing this so any and all feedback is welcome. Thanks! :tup:

Also can they get rid of the tire pressure light that is constantly on my dash? I bought new wheels and never took them to Nissan to reset the TPMS.

Go through the "Smooth throttle for Uprev" thread and get the latest map they've come up with. Make sure they play around with the fan control as well.

Some major items people look at.
-Smooth throttle
-Fan control changes
-Cruise control map switching (up to 5)
-Reliable

Thanks for the suggestion. That thread is very long. Could you point me to the latest one to use? And how do I transfer it to the tuner? Just print the page out? Sorry this is my first time doing this.

The first page by wstar is the most up to date by him and I think the last or second to last page is one by Baer.
I would have it maybe saved on your phone or email a link to your tuner and have them look it over. They may know about it already and have their own settings they tweak.

i heard with tune theres a possible increase in mpg??

There can be technically, it also depends on how you drive the car.
Making the engine more efficient and having the ECU understand these changes can help provide equal to slightly better MPG. Yet at the same time you can decrease MPG by a large margin if you drive more aggressively.

If it's leaner and you drive gently, expect better gas mileage. The first couple of tanks the mileage will be much worse since you're going to be enjoying the new power.

ic yeah thats true, i def want one but just putting it off due to such small gains for NA.

It's not really small gains. It's small peak gains. You gain a lot of area under the curve, and that's far more useful and noticable than peak power.

Is it possible for them to tune the traction control using Uprev? I'd personally love to reduce the time that VDC cuts power. Feels like about a full second where to car bogs down sometimes, and it's always settled back after at most half a second.

If I'm not mistaken, I believe they can after reading Baer's comment here:

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...er-370z-3.html

Correct me if I'm wrong tho.

I don't know if you have discount tire in your area, but they (and assume most tire shops or at least major chains) will do it.

I mentioned discount tire because its quick and free.

I would like to TOTALLY disable this f-ing useless feature. Correct me if I'm wrong but I heard that it still remains active to some degree even when you deactivate it. Maybe...just maybe I would use it if my tires were wore out and it is raining so much I could barley see and I had to get to where I am going in a hurry. I get so f-ing mad when I forget to deactivate it and I punch the throttle out of 1st gear in a slow roll...makes me look like a :nutswinger: Is it possible to completely get rid of this feature with UpRev?

is there a way to not get the "not supported" message? that fails obd2 based emissions tests.

Anything else you suggest they do or I should ask for?

Remove the ecu inputs for the 2 rear oxygen sensors. They will still cycle, but if they ever operate outside their voltage range, they won't throw a code.

Will this be a problem for obd2 tests, that the sensors aren't detected, so they will not read for the test = fail?

Make sure they remove the Top Speed governor, that way you can do a full dyno pull in 5th gear if you choose to do so.

Nope. They still cycle open/closed loop. But their inputs are blocked from the ecu. Thus, no code will be seen.:icon14:

With my LTH's, I haven't thrown any codes...

But I should still have the tuner do this, just as an assurance. :tup:

I was throwing codes all the time before my tune. With the exhaust mods, this is not uncommon. My tuner removed the inputs for the rear sensors (UpRev). While they still work and will send the voltage signal that adjusts the afr when the engine is cold, their voltage signal is blocked from the ecu. So, they always "look" ok even when they operate outside their voltage range. Best of both worlds.

Interesting. I will have to let my tuner know this (If they don't do it already) when I get my tune looked at by a 2nd opinion.

Right now, I'm not satisfied with it. :shakes head:

I would suggest asking the tuner to be sure he includes more horsepower with the tune. Sometimes that part gets left off.

http://www.solvencyiinews.com/wp-con.../morepower.png

And if he says, "When do you want me to have VTEC kick in?"

You ask for your keys and run. :wtf2:

no no no you say "Right when I need it, yo!".

I drive an Si, and I can't seem to find my Vtec.

Found it...

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1376599067


:rolleyes:

Im pretty sure the secondary 02s will make no change for you. Those don't control AFR... That's why the primaries are specified as AFR sensors and the secondary's are 02 sensors. The 02's are purely for emissions as far as I know. I also run no secondary's now and have no issue.

:bowrofl:



I'm also getting tuned this Saturday in NH. So far I've gotten this from some searching:

5 Maps:
Anti-Theft
Tuned 93
Economy
Stock
valet

Use "smooth throttle" table from wstar

Oh..... bahahahaha!

So when someone adds a wideband AFR meter for a gauge in the console, are they tapping into the Primary OEM sensors, or replacing a primary OEM sensor?

Or are they replacing the secondary OEM sensor?

Or are they requiring their own bung to be added on to the piping?


Just wondering if you can turn off the OEM Secondary sensors, and replace them with an aftermarket AFR gauge in those bungs?

I had an aftermarket O2 sensor installed in a new bung for my gauge.

Ask for them to play with the throttle mapping for better response, if an auto, to bump up the torque tables for firmer shifts, and otherwise you are looking at a wee bit more ignition advance and slightly leaner AFR's up top.

If they know what they are doing with VVEL, you might ask them to play with that too, I suppose.

OP I thought you were selling your car?

OEM's are wideband, so you could either get data from them or add a new sensor (or two).

I'd just use OEM -- why spend money on sensors you don't need.

You can adjust the sensitivity on the 2ndary O2's. No idea if OEM ECU cares if they are there or not if you switch off the corresponding DTC. Probably not.

Would the gauge just tie into the OEM wiring, or would I splice?

Would that be a problem having 2 sensors feeding data to 1 gauge, or does the gauge only read from 1 bank...

Having not installed an AFR gauge before, I'm :confused: on all of it. But I want to learn.

Its a 3rd afr sensor. With how fussy the electronics are on this car I would not tap the oem sensors. An lc1 gauge with afr sensor is like $180.

I run 2 primaries from the stock bung location. The LC1 afr gauge is tapped at my downpipe. Obviosuly its a little different for NA