Any Cobb Sponsorsor Reps?

[ddvette9]

Is anyone on here a Cobb sponsor or rep. Looking to get a deal on post MAF silicone tubes

[ZPirate]

Originally Posted by ddvette9

Is anyone on here a Cobb sponsor or rep. Looking to get a deal on post MAF silicone tubes

I have a set on my car. From what I've been told there isn't much margin on the tubes so you are likely not going to get a huge discount. I think I paid $115 for mine. I got them from a local shop that I deal with. They got them directly from Cobb.

[Red370]

has anyone done an independent dyno with these yet? i dont see these increasing power whatsoever.

[Modshack]

Originally Posted by Red370

has anyone done an independent dyno with these yet? i dont see these increasing power whatsoever.

Too many here are hung up on "dyno" results. Small incremental improvements result in gains, period. They are too small to be measured by "Dyno" runs. If you really need Dyno numbers, then use my results, or make up your own. Get over it!

[Red370]

not saying there isnt an improvement in some respects, but changing the tubing cant result in much. Now changing something around with the MAF sensor might see some slight power gains. Most people claim inlet temps of 8 degrees over ambient with drop ins, with my G3's, im seeing temps of 3 degrees over.

[ddvette9]

Modshack, its about time someone said that. And its so true. This isnt a muscle car forum where all we care about is making power and doing dyno runs every day. Some people on the forums prefer simpler, more modest mods that are easy to maintain, cheap, and simple to do. I like making power and making my car run better, but like you said, not everyone is trying to create a dyno monster with their z's. I know about the gen 3's and long tube intakes. I just want my car to breathe a little better, pick up some throtlle response with some drop ins, so i posted this for a quick response from a possible sponsor/rep. Not to be confused with an intake gain debate/discussion.

As far as I am concerned, an admin can shut this thread down in a day or so if no sponsors have really cheap pricing. Let others discuss intakes in the engine/drivetrain thread

[kenchan]

yah, if you're fat or live in hot climates or high altitudes, etc. you lose so much power anyway. these numbers dont matter much especially on street.

[Zsteve]

Originally Posted by kenchan

yah, if you're fat or live in hot climates or high altitudes, etc. you lose so much power anyway. these numbers dont matter much especially on street.

HEY....... Im a little chubby and live in a high altitude climate. No make fun of me. LOL

Next mod.....................................lipo suction on me.

[TBSS2008]

Originally Posted by Zsteve

HEY....... Im a little chubby and live in a high altitude climate. No make fun of me. LOL

Next mod.....................................lipo suction on me.

Zsteve I remember reading that you have the 7AT. Have you been able to successfully use the dyno simulator on the Cobb AP? When I try using it on my auto Z it never gets past the screen that stats Make Gear Selection. I am wondering if this feature even works on an auto because I am in the correct gear and hover at 2000rpm ready for this thing to say accelarate.

I have gotten the 0-60 to work just no the dyno. I want to start doing some performance logging with this thing and report back any power gain/loss with running the Takeda SRI over the Stock Air Box. I feel this will be better then a standing still dyno like (Dyno Jet) because the Short Ram Intakes work as the air starts to enter the engine ie the car needs to be moving to show and accurate reading (Real World Testing). These SRI will never show power in a shop with the hood closed even with a fan blowing.

I have monitored my Takeda Intake temps and average 15-20 over ambient cruising and 8-12 over ambient at WOT, but in traffic I have seen intake temps go past 150F. So I swapped back to the stock box (stock filter) and measure 5-12 over ambient crusing and 5-8 at WOT, sitting in traffic it takes much longer to get high intake temps. So the stock box is definitely bringing in cooler air but.... I still think the car pulled harder with the Takeda SRI especially at high RPM. And this may be the AAM tune doing its job but the AFR is the same on the Takeda and Stock Air Intake. 14.5 idle and around 12.5 WOT.

[370Zsteve]

Originally Posted by Modshack

Too many here are hung up on "dyno" results. Small incremental improvements result in gains, period. They are too small to be measured by "Dyno" runs. If you really need Dyno numbers, then use my results, or make up your own. Get over it!

: roflpuke2:

[m4a1mustang]

Originally Posted by Modshack

Too many here are hung up on "dyno" results. Small incremental improvements result in gains, period. They are too small to be measured by "Dyno" runs. If you really need Dyno numbers, then use my results, or make up your own. Get over it!

I haven't seen that graph in a while! +1 rep

[Zsteve]

Originally Posted by TBSS2008

Zsteve I remember reading that you have the 7AT. Have you been able to successfully use the dyno simulator on the Cobb AP? When I try using it on my auto Z it never gets past the screen that stats Make Gear Selection. I am wondering if this feature even works on an auto because I am in the correct gear and hover at 2000rpm ready for this thing to say accelarate.

I have gotten the 0-60 to work just no the dyno. I want to start doing some performance logging with this thing and report back any power gain/loss with running the Takeda SRI over the Stock Air Box. I feel this will be better then a standing still dyno like (Dyno Jet) because the Short Ram Intakes work as the air starts to enter the engine ie the car needs to be moving to show and accurate reading (Real World Testing). These SRI will never show power in a shop with the hood closed even with a fan blowing.

I have monitored my Takeda Intake temps and average 15-20 over ambient cruising and 8-12 over ambient at WOT, but in traffic I have seen intake temps go past 150F. So I swapped back to the stock box (stock filter) and measure 5-12 over ambient crusing and 5-8 at WOT, sitting in traffic it takes much longer to get high intake temps. So the stock box is definitely bringing in cooler air but.... I still think the car pulled harder with the Takeda SRI especially at high RPM. And this may be the AAM tune doing its job but the AFR is the same on the Takeda and Stock Air Intake. 14.5 idle and around 12.5 WOT.

I havent tried it as Red370 said it was real quirky in that it can give really off numbers depending on what gear you are in and how you are driving it.

When you went back to stock boxes, did you use the stock filters and they might have been dirty. Try it with the K&N filters as they flow better than stock. Yea thats about my AFRs too, right on from what I have been told.

[IDZRVIT]

Originally Posted by Modshack

Too many here are hung up on "dyno" results. Small incremental improvements result in gains, period. They are too small to be measured by "Dyno" runs. If you really need Dyno numbers, then use my results, or make up your own. Get over it!

BZ!

[TBSS2008]

Originally Posted by Zsteve

I havent tried it as Red370 said it was real quirky in that it can give really off numbers depending on what gear you are in and how you are driving it.

When you went back to stock boxes, did you use the stock filters and they might have been dirty. Try it with the K&N filters as they flow better than stock. Yea thats about my AFRs too, right on from what I have been told.

When I put the stock air intake back in I did use the stock filter. It was pretty clean because I only ran the car with stock intake for about 4k miles. I have been looking into the K&N drop in filters but I would have to cut my Takeda intake tubes to make it fit.

So I think I am going to create a short tube CAI hybrid.

1) Use two Ractive heat shield filters with the 3" inlet
2) Takeda tubes are 3.5” at the end so I will need to use a Reducer 3.5 to 3”
3) 3” extension intake aluminum tube to connect the Takeda Tube to the new 3” filter inlet.
4) Then run a 3” coupler from the end of the RACTIVE filter to the stock ram hole

RACTIVE heat shield filters (Carbon Fiber Look) are only $27.99 plus shipping and include the filter (K&N Oil type Filter [knock off]) and heat shield, which is still cheaper the K&N drop in filter.
Link: Universal Eurolite Heat Shield Filter Carbon Fiber - 3 Inch - SF007CF by Eurolite

[Zsteve]

Originally Posted by TBSS2008

When I put the stock air intake back in I did use the stock filter. It was pretty clean because I only ran the car with stock intake for about 4k miles. I have been looking into the K&N drop in filters but I would have to cut my Takeda intake tubes to make it fit.

So I think I am going to create a short tube CAI hybrid.

1) Use two Ractive heat shield filters with the 3" inlet
2) Takeda tubes are 3.5” at the end so I will need to use a Reducer 3.5 to 3”
3) 3” extension intake aluminum tube to connect the Takeda Tube to the new 3” filter inlet.
4) Then run a 3” coupler from the end of the RACTIVE filter to the stock ram hole

RACTIVE heat shield filters (Carbon Fiber Look) are only $27.99 plus shipping and include the filter (K&N Oil type Filter [knock off]) and heat shield, which is still cheaper the K&N drop in filter.
Link: Universal Eurolite Heat Shield Filter Carbon Fiber - 3 Inch - SF007CF by Eurolite

Not sure why you would have to cut things for drop ins on the stock intake, I was meaning when you put the stock intake in, put in K&N drop ins and then see how the performance is compared to the other intake. Even when clean the stock filters are more restrictive than the K&Ns and will cause the performance to be less than the K&Ns. I think you will see that the stock intake with K&N drop ins will be about the same as performance as your ram intake.

Oh I see you kept the Takeda tubes with the stock boxes.