my wallet hates you for this by the way.....:mad:

dammit. ok someone go find me some 18's lol

Before you get the wheels and rims, you can also change the brake rotors to racing brake 2 piece rotors, you will also save some weight there.
It all helps in getting the 1/4 mile times lower,

Z

What would be an ideal alignment for my setup? I have 305/30/19's.

I'm running pretty close to 0 camber in the rear, But I did a few test patches and I still don't get the full tire width of rubber. And it is a lot more dark on the inside of the tracks. I'm also on swifts

removing all the negative camber is all you can really do.

if you are willing to run the rear suspension stock height, it wont camber negative as far when it squats.

Is there any other way? I hate the look of the stock hight...

I suppose I could run a smaller rim with a bigger side wall to fill it in a little

Would running a stiffer spring help as well?

Theres not really any other way. The relationships between the control arms are what cause the compression camber. The lower the car sits, the faster it cambers in with compression. You could possibly try and raise the crossmember closer to the chassis to sit a little lower without altering baseline control arm angles, but probably not much at all.

Stiffening up should help some. Reducing weight transfer to the rear will reduce compression. Generally you would want more weight on the tires, but I dont think it helps if it causes so much camber. You would have to experiment and see what works best for you.

In the rear. Stock height, 0 camber, stiff springs, and have shocks on the rear that have adjustable compression damping. Have the damping set on the stiffest set. This would keep it from squating, BUT you will have issues with weight tranfer. You could have weight transfer with shocks in the front that lets you adjust the rebound damping. You would adjust that to the softest setting. This will let the front come up quickly, loading the rear.

try taking off the front strut brace to allow better weight transfer(in theory)

^^Yup I'm no expert, but I've heard even removing the front sway bar can help...

Or you could leave the Z at home and bolt a rocket to a shopping cart :)

Is there a way to block off the suspension so once it's at 0 camber it can't go down anymore?

The camber is only a static number when the car is not moving at all. It doesnt just start to camber at a certain height. The wheel is mounted to arms that swing up and down... they mounted to the chassis and pivot. So its like swinging your arm up and down. You could not move it at all without changing the angles.

It's a multi-link suspension in which caster, camber and toe vary as the links move. You'd literally have to get the arm lengths (distance between mounting points) model them on CAD or some suspension software (unless you feel like deriving the system model mathetically - Phunk probably did that already haha) and see how it behaves. From there you'll discover that you'll have to redesign the arms which will basically force you to rework the entire subframe. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

ALL THIS TO COUNTER WHAT IS GOOD WITH THE Z!!!! :P (FlameSuit engaged by Road race guy :P )

So even if you stopped the suspension from going any further down from the desired point which camber would be perfect for traction? There isn't a way to stop the suspension travel prematurely?

I have wondered this entire time if what the alignment is doing is actually the most optimized for road racing or not. I am no road race setup expert, but I think its a conversation worth having.

Could the outside tire be cambering more than the chassis is leaning, and taking rubber off the pavement for no good reason? Perhaps "yes" with a very stiff and flat setup, and "no" with a more stock setup? Or would the answer be "no way not even close"?

The desired point is HIGHER (decompressed) than where you started, so you couldnt go down (compress) at all. You would have to take out the shocks and put in solid metal bars and defeat the whole suspension... which would result in an unstable and dangerous car.

I think in general the answer is that yes, the 370's suspension is more optimized for road-racing than it is for for drag-racing. Not that it doesn't need tweaking and parts upgrades for road-racing too, but even without those it's generally in the ballpark of doing the right thing. I *want* camber as the rear loads up on weight transfer, because that set of conditions (low-gear + heavy throttle -> weight transfer to rear) only tends to happen during mid-corner through to the exit, where the car is already trying to fly sideways at a full G or more before I even started laying into that throttle pedal.

It seems it would be difficult in general to simultaneously optimize a rear suspension's response for both road-racing and drag-racing.

I agree that the setup is much more optimized for road racing than drag racing. But I believe you misread my question you quoted. Simplified: does the 370z camber too much during compression *even* for road racing? Or maybe with some setups "yes" and some setups "no". There has to be a point where its too much, I am wondering if the 370z could have crossed that line in some applications, or is it not even close to being too much? Could adjusting the control arm nodes to reduce compression camber slightly even aid a road race 370z that wants a lot of compression camber?

might be easier to swap in a live axle and let er rip:icon17:

the heavy camber curve under compression is an advatange for road race setups IF (heavy emphasis on the "IF") you can get the rear negative camber reduced enough. YES there is a point where its to much camber, but if you can set it up right at static (which can be verified by tire temps), then you can have a setup that has good longitude traction from the minimal static negative camber, but then camber's in enough during cornering. so yes it can work fantastic if your static settings are correct.

I ask because if I keep the car much longer, we have played around with the idea of a custom rear crossmember. We could then change the curve by using custom control arm lengths, or possibly a few different positions. If it would only cater to drag racing, then I would figure on building just one, in which cause would be easier to fabricate and modify off the stock one. But if there was benefits to be found for the much more common road course racers here, then it could possibly justify a full custom rear crossmember. But it sounds like you guys are plenty happy with how it is already.

My rear static/dynamic camber ends up doing the right thing on the outside wheel. It gets a little iffy on the inside wheel, but I suspect I'm going to iron that out over the next two events. This weekend I'm trying just a downgrade to the stock rear sway, and then for the next event I'll probably be upping my spring rates all around (but esp in front) to reduce body roll. Depending on lots of things, I'm not sure which rear bar I'll end up running with the stiffer springs. But either way, I don't think we need a major geometry change in the rear for road racing.