my wallet hates you for this by the way.....:mad:

dammit. ok someone go find me some 18's lol

Before you get the wheels and rims, you can also change the brake rotors to racing brake 2 piece rotors, you will also save some weight there.
It all helps in getting the 1/4 mile times lower,

Z

What would be an ideal alignment for my setup? I have 305/30/19's.

I'm running pretty close to 0 camber in the rear, But I did a few test patches and I still don't get the full tire width of rubber. And it is a lot more dark on the inside of the tracks. I'm also on swifts

removing all the negative camber is all you can really do.

if you are willing to run the rear suspension stock height, it wont camber negative as far when it squats.

Is there any other way? I hate the look of the stock hight...

I suppose I could run a smaller rim with a bigger side wall to fill it in a little

Would running a stiffer spring help as well?

Theres not really any other way. The relationships between the control arms are what cause the compression camber. The lower the car sits, the faster it cambers in with compression. You could possibly try and raise the crossmember closer to the chassis to sit a little lower without altering baseline control arm angles, but probably not much at all.

Stiffening up should help some. Reducing weight transfer to the rear will reduce compression. Generally you would want more weight on the tires, but I dont think it helps if it causes so much camber. You would have to experiment and see what works best for you.

In the rear. Stock height, 0 camber, stiff springs, and have shocks on the rear that have adjustable compression damping. Have the damping set on the stiffest set. This would keep it from squating, BUT you will have issues with weight tranfer. You could have weight transfer with shocks in the front that lets you adjust the rebound damping. You would adjust that to the softest setting. This will let the front come up quickly, loading the rear.

try taking off the front strut brace to allow better weight transfer(in theory)

^^Yup I'm no expert, but I've heard even removing the front sway bar can help...

Or you could leave the Z at home and bolt a rocket to a shopping cart :)

Is there a way to block off the suspension so once it's at 0 camber it can't go down anymore?

The camber is only a static number when the car is not moving at all. It doesnt just start to camber at a certain height. The wheel is mounted to arms that swing up and down... they mounted to the chassis and pivot. So its like swinging your arm up and down. You could not move it at all without changing the angles.

It's a multi-link suspension in which caster, camber and toe vary as the links move. You'd literally have to get the arm lengths (distance between mounting points) model them on CAD or some suspension software (unless you feel like deriving the system model mathetically - Phunk probably did that already haha) and see how it behaves. From there you'll discover that you'll have to redesign the arms which will basically force you to rework the entire subframe. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

ALL THIS TO COUNTER WHAT IS GOOD WITH THE Z!!!! :P (FlameSuit engaged by Road race guy :P )