One oil cooler is not enough
 

I installed the largest Setrab cooler available for the Z and on the third 25 min session at PBIR it hit temps high enough to limit rpm. The 13 and 14 model year cars have a collar between the engine and oil filter that uses engine coolant to help "cool" the oil. I have a feeling this is actually heating the oil instead when a separate cooler is installed. I took it off to see if I could just put a return on it and not use that coolant thing, but there needs to be a new threaded fitting made to be able to connect the Setrab directly to the engine. Anyone know if these are available?

I turned the heater to full blast and that helped get some heat off the engine, but in Florida even with the windows down, that is not comfortable. Any ideas on how to have the heat set on max, and get that air directed outside the car instead?

What temps were you seeing?


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i can almost see florida hitting 135F and 95% humidity... from people doing that mod.

Not even close but thanks for playing!


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Dont listen to dicks, any whoo there are few things u can do to get the heat out of the engine bay without wasting too much $, well there are rubber "bushings" that go along the window almost on the top of the engine bay it is there to keep ur hood from vibration when ur going over bumps, if u remove them 3 of them 2 small 1 long they let more air out of the engine.

If u still want more cooling i would suggest removing the under engine cover that will be a huge difference, but has a draw back dont drive at extremely high speeds cuz its letting air under ur car and well its unsafe.

And if you just want to pay 4 something that will work best well i suggest buying a vented hood, bigger radiator, or another cooler.

GL.

He's tracking the car, leave the under tray on. My vented hood did help get more air through the coolers and lowered temps. Asking what temps he was seeing wasn't being a ****, temp go up on the track but that's not always a problem if they aren't to high. I track my car in Florida too and and I see 200-215 without any problems.


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The base of the windshield is a high pressure area. If you pull the weatherstripping out there's a chance that it will force air in at speed and you end up slowing the air coming through the oil cooler and radiator. Pulling the undertray is a bad idea too, both because it's the lower bumper support as well as the effect on aero. It will slow the airflow through the radiator and oil cooler.

theDreamer has a thread about vented hoods and temps. That's the first place to go to lower underhood temps.

PBIR has a straight that's like .8 mile so he's seeing high speeds.


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I tried pulling the weathstripping with no results on my car positive or negative that I could tell.


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How many Rows does the SETRAB have? you might want to look at a larger cooler if Setrab only goes to 15 row. Im looking at upping to a 34 Row cooler myself on the next oil change.

What size setrab are you using? Have you considered putting larger aftermarket oil pan on the car? How about upgraded radiator too? What kind of oil are you using?

2012 models and up have the factory cooler. I went with a setreb series 9 see thread I made if you want to delete your stocker and add an aftermarket one.
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...er-delete.html

One oil cooler is not enough
 

It is the 34 row, the largest one offered by Z1, max temp was close to 270.

Sure you have the largest? Check out Fast Intentions...larger, and deals with that oil "heater" issue also!

Tracy

Ask Chuck what he uses he has a monster cooler and deals with Houston heat as well as being boosted.

I have yet to get over 220 with 25 min sessions. Its been cool here but, mine works great for what I do with it.

Wow that's not good!


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Yeah that's not good at all. Might want to look at an oil pan spacer.

My car last moth at sebring only hit 214 with 8 lb of boost and I have a 32 row cooler. My vented hood has helped my cooling by getting more air in through the coolers.


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What are you using for engine coolant? If the 13-14 use the coolant to cool oil maybe going to water and water wetter might help, I switch to it a few months ago and I think it's ran cooler.


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Properly Vented hood, period!

I havent had a chance to track yet but around town driving fast, 90* stop and go traffic for hours, canyon carving etc! I've yet to hit 220 in my 13. I don't think the coolant increases temps because coolant stays around 200-210. That's obviously cooler than 270. But if you want to remove the OEM one you need the oil filter threaded plug off a 09-11. I just bought one from nissan. It's only $8.

Also SSfirehawk?? Had a 72 row ;). He's in Vegas and I believe had trouble hitting 200.

Properly Vented hood, period!

I havent had a chance to track yet but around town driving fast, 90* stop and go traffic for hours, canyon carving etc! I've yet to hit 220 in my 13. I don't think the coolant increases temps because coolant stays around 200-210. That's obviously cooler than 270. But if you want to remove the OEM one you need the oil filter threaded plug off a 09-11. I just bought one from nissan. It's only $8.

Also SSfirehawk?? Had a 72 row ;). He's in Vegas and I believe had trouble hitting 200.

One oil cooler is not enough
 

There are two long curves where I was holding it in second to maintain speed and quickly get out and I was very close to redline the whole time. When I did the same curves and used the lower rpm of 3rd gear it just seemed to lose too much time/power to get going. Guess I should just accept a slower exit speed from the turns in order to keep the temp down.
Thanks for the mention of fast intentions, they have a $15 kit to block of the radiator deal. Gonna try to order that tomorrow.

I put a spal fan on my oil cooler with a relay that switches it on once it hits around 220. The oil will creep up to 225 or so if I'm beating on it, but no further.

If you get a tune, you can set the fans to come on earlier. That will help a lot.

At the end of the day, a hood vent will probably solve a good chunk of your issues, if not all of it. You have to get the hot air out somehow.

What about a larger radiator to remove the heat from the water. Seems the 370 has a very thin minimal radiator.

Would bigger radiator fans and/or faster fan motors help?

Nice call Ark. I was thinking the same thing.

How far from the radiator is your oil cooler mounted?

You can try 1) shrouding your oil cooler for dollars, 2 shrouding + fan, 3) remove the oem oil cooler which I did just buy oil filter stub for older cars w no oil coolers

What kind of oil are you running also, strange because my oil never went past 265 even at 110+ degrees at the track on a 2012 w oem oil cooler and z1 34 row.

I ordered the Nissan part to remove the coolant "collar" and if that is not enough, I will try an upgraded radiator, thanks for the help!

Sorry, I forgot I posted in here as well as the general discussion forum. I have the 34 row Setrab, the largest offered by Z1. Thanks for the mention of Fast Intentions, they gave me the nissan part number to remove the coolant collar and I plan on just looping the coolant lines after I remove that collar part. Hopefully that will solve this. If not I will look into bigger radiator, or fans. Just using stock oil as synthetics do not run any cooler according to my research.

Big issue was holding 2nd gear near red line all the way around two very long curves at PBIR. Might have to give up some corner exit speed by using third gear with the lower revs instead.

Actually running oem oil vs any good oil will make a big difference. I highly recommend not tracking on oem oil, I run motul

Just like the oil cooler, one thread is not enough: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...ot-enough.html ;)

:icon17:

Maybe the mods can help him out and combine the two.

I second what Martin said about the shrouding, also a shroud to effectively reduce the gap between the oil cooler and the heat exchanger behind it should help airflow. Also quality oil. Redline 5w30 is a very good oil as well as other actual full synthetics, motul, royal purple, mobile one etc. Do not run a heavier oil, that will just reduce your oil flow (and hence the cooling ability of the oil cooler) unless your engine specifically requires it for other reasons. Venting the engine bay through your hood or fenders should also help though it may be beyond the scope of your project.


:driving:

PS ... dunno about the fan idea, I'm 99.9999999 % sure that during hard driving it would just reduce flow by adding an obstruction in the flow path... unless of course your fan is capale of moving air at 120+ mph, in that case your prolly good!

I noticed on GT Academy that Nissan added four openings on the top of the front bumper, that doesn't look good but seeing that the manufacturer went that route says something about it being a good solution.

http://i59.tinypic.com/281x56x.jpg

Unless your oil cooler is mounted that high I don't see how that would help.

They are doing it for a reason. The radiator goes all the way to the top of the bumper. Lower rad temp means lower oil temps and vice versa, it's all interrelated.

OP it sounds like you have done all the right things. I wish you luck.

I too have a 34 row oil coller in a 2009 Z, and at 99 degrees at Sears Point I hit 260*, while using a higher gear did bring temp down some. I did not hit limiter. Also no humidity to speak of.

This is an extreme heat situation, hopefully with these small fixes you will not be plauged again.

Because of how much the vented hood helped with cooling I would bet the engine bay on our cars are a high pressure zone and if thats the case I can't imagine the holes would help flow much without somewhere for the increased air flow to get out of the engine bay. With that said, if you try it please let us know how it works for you.