Sorry, I forgot I posted in here as well as the general discussion forum. I have the 34 row Setrab, the largest offered by Z1. Thanks for the mention of Fast Intentions, they gave me the nissan part number to remove the coolant collar and I plan on just looping the coolant lines after I remove that collar part. Hopefully that will solve this. If not I will look into bigger radiator, or fans. Just using stock oil as synthetics do not run any cooler according to my research.

Big issue was holding 2nd gear near red line all the way around two very long curves at PBIR. Might have to give up some corner exit speed by using third gear with the lower revs instead.

Actually running oem oil vs any good oil will make a big difference. I highly recommend not tracking on oem oil, I run motul

Just like the oil cooler, one thread is not enough: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...ot-enough.html ;)

:icon17:

Maybe the mods can help him out and combine the two.

I second what Martin said about the shrouding, also a shroud to effectively reduce the gap between the oil cooler and the heat exchanger behind it should help airflow. Also quality oil. Redline 5w30 is a very good oil as well as other actual full synthetics, motul, royal purple, mobile one etc. Do not run a heavier oil, that will just reduce your oil flow (and hence the cooling ability of the oil cooler) unless your engine specifically requires it for other reasons. Venting the engine bay through your hood or fenders should also help though it may be beyond the scope of your project.


:driving:

PS ... dunno about the fan idea, I'm 99.9999999 % sure that during hard driving it would just reduce flow by adding an obstruction in the flow path... unless of course your fan is capale of moving air at 120+ mph, in that case your prolly good!

I noticed on GT Academy that Nissan added four openings on the top of the front bumper, that doesn't look good but seeing that the manufacturer went that route says something about it being a good solution.

http://i59.tinypic.com/281x56x.jpg

Unless your oil cooler is mounted that high I don't see how that would help.

They are doing it for a reason. The radiator goes all the way to the top of the bumper. Lower rad temp means lower oil temps and vice versa, it's all interrelated.

OP it sounds like you have done all the right things. I wish you luck.

I too have a 34 row oil coller in a 2009 Z, and at 99 degrees at Sears Point I hit 260*, while using a higher gear did bring temp down some. I did not hit limiter. Also no humidity to speak of.

This is an extreme heat situation, hopefully with these small fixes you will not be plauged again.

Because of how much the vented hood helped with cooling I would bet the engine bay on our cars are a high pressure zone and if thats the case I can't imagine the holes would help flow much without somewhere for the increased air flow to get out of the engine bay. With that said, if you try it please let us know how it works for you.

Cai holes?

It's an oil stabilizer not an oil cooler. Adding an after market oil cooler while keeping the stock oil stabilizer does nothing but cancel each other out. You need to remove the stock on and your temps will drop.

Thanks, as I said above I have the part on order to do just that, fingers crossed.

I think you're right about the 13/14 collar. I tracked at Sebring last weekend (and it was HOT). I did 3 30 minutes sessions and only had to lay off towards the last 5-7 minutes of each one. I'm not running an oil cooler at all and have a 2010. I did stay around 240-250 for most of it... I'm gonna grab a 25 row soon.

Setrab has a dual fan model
 

Do you have electric fans on the oil cooler? setrab has that

There are also series numbers for coolers for BTU specs if you bought from someone who supplies a kit that may be part of problem. lower series # But I am no expert.

Good Luck!
jb