Need autox alignment suggestion/specs: 285/35 19" Sq. tires, stock suspension
Hey guys,
As you saw from this thread, I have been autox-ing regularly now. I am hoping to do 3 events every month (at least hoping to). I ended up getting 285/35-19" RE-11 all around sq. setup and I love it. Best decision ever made. So, finally I wanted to get an alignment that will take advantage of the wide REs and give me even quicker time. My suspension is bone stock including all stock sways. So, what kind of autox friendly alignment do you recommend? I want to stay in street (C Street) class. Remember, I still have to make it to the event driving on regular roads/highways (sometimes in rain) etc. So maybe a spec that works for regular driving and autox? Also keep in mind, this will be my 2nd season. So, I may not be there quite yet. A 5 year old autox PRO may benefit from certain spec vs. me on the same car. I asked a national driver,"What if I get a front sway, what's alignment should I get?" He suggested try to minimize rear camber/toe (-1.5 camber, 0 toe). In the front, 1/8" total toe out in the front. Perhaps I need more positive camber/toe in the rear (than above mentioned) with stock front sway? Lets hear your suggestions. Thank you in advance |
vh1's alignment specs
Here is what I am running on my car for the street. The intent was to get it close to AutoX numbers and livable on the street.
Disclaimer: Haven't run it on the track but feels pretty balanced in the canyons(slight oversteer in the canyons on stock RE050's). Might try going down to -1.5 Deg. on the rear camber as you noted to see what effect it has. Front Camber: -2.2 Deg. Front Toe: 0 Front Caster: 5.5 Deg. Rear Camber: -1.8 Deg. Rear Toe: 1/16" or 0.01 Deg. Total (1/32" Right + 1/32" Left) I have swift springs with SPL Front and Rear Camber adjustment and SPC Toe Bolts on the rear. Hope this helps or gives you a starting point. |
AK,
I know on the track zero toe on the back was horrible. Made the rear break loose far to soon. Zero to up front you will love as the steering feels much lighter and easier to turn in. For rear toe I shot for just under the factory recommended spec. Much much better stays planted now. |
When you went square, did you match the rim widths? or stayed with the front stock width?
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I am def. keeping your suggestion written down. :tup: Quote:
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You can't do much in class.
Dial in minimal camber in the rear. The rear camber curves are aggressive and you want to be flat as possible to get power down. I like a little toe in out back on the Z, but it's personal preference. You definitely need toe out up front, how much is preference. I kept mine pretty aggressive for autoX, but it makes the car trouble on the highway. 1/8 should be a good starting point. A good front bar will help reel in the rollover the Z struggles with as well. In my experience the Hotckis is too stiff to use without extremely aggressive camber dialed in, but others have had different experiences. The square setup should do you well. I'd consider going down in height next round of tires for the gearing advantage, nice to have on the autoX course. |
AK
I have a setup simialr to yours. Front swaybar, 275/35/19 square on stock rays and no front camber arms. I did some research and came up with zero toe up front, either zero or 1/8 toe in, in the rear and -1.5 rear camber. I got these numbers from the forum and then found an article on motoiq that suggest the same setup, hope that helps. Also I saw that toe out is good but I dont want the car going all over the road on the hwy. http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ing-your-Toe.a http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ve-Camber.aspx |
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yes! Synolimit is here!!!
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:tiphat:
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