So since sep 2012 you haven't had an alignment? I'd be very interested in specs if you haven't.

That I don't know. I don't see why they wouldn't be. All you're doing is taking adjustment ability out of the setup. Does the rules say you have to adjust to OEM spec? Or can you adjust to whatever numbers you'd like? I get arms might be illegal for over adjustment, but under adjustment should be fine.

No I didn't :(. It's just hard to find a decent shop and my work life is way too busy. I was really busy in 2013. I had a few Sundays off. So I tried out autox which was happening 3 blocks from my house. Started out slow, 1 event a month. But slowly it became addiction. So toward the end season (August), I got 285 sq RE-11 and car felt much better than oem re-050. now starting 2014 season, I want to get a nice alignment setup for autox and daily driving. The Z still has to do 80 mph in highway and great in rain. But if I can squeeze in a little bit of performance spec instead of boring dealership spec, that's what I'm looking for.

I def. have to look that up. Any link to the actual product? pm me plz

I'd PM you but I want others to see this too.

This is a lock out kit for $72!!
SPL Eccentric Lockout Kit . But what it really is, is $2 each 10.9 bolts 100mm x 0.46" which can be picked up at advanced auto parts for $8 total. I'd get washers for each side and nuts too obviously. The plates can be made of anything really, they are not load bearing. You just need to cut them 1.33" in width so they fit in between the notches in the subframe.

The trick is to drill your 0.46" hole based on what you want your camber and toe to be. If you drill the hole center and are not in spec you need a plate that has the hole more offset. The beauty is if you make a 1.33x1.33 plate with a offset hole you can turn the plate 4 different directions giving you 4 different toe and camber specs. Takes a little longer for the alignment guy but its not bad to losen the nut, and turn the plate 90 degrees. I used 1/4 thick T6061 plate a foot long by 2" I got for the weight of T6061 at a scrape yard for $0.75c. You can make 100 plates with different off centers before you go blow $72 from SPL.

Lockout kits are entirely a waste of money and not needed...

The important thing is to properly lube/clean the rear bolts so they properly tighten the adjusters. I see cars with a ton of corrosion in the threads and even tight they are not really applying proper TQ to hold the eccentrics in place.

At Wilmington autox last weekend I ran stock camber front, 1.5 rear, 0 toe front and 1/8 total toe rear. Car was surprisingly neutral, maybe a touch of under steer that given more time I can dial out with tire pressures and shock settings. Using 275 square ad08rs on stock rims with front sway for c street class.

Thanks man. So 1.5 rear is what I'm doing. I guess only difference is you have 0 front toe and 1/8" total rear where I'm thinking of 1/8" total front toe and 0 rear toe. I have been reading more and more about how having a little out front toe helps turn in during autox. Do you think with toe out, your car will handle even better? Hows your highway driving stability?

Disagree. After a few times of slippage you'd torque as tight as you could to correct the problem but my friends still have issues. If you read what I wrote its not a waste of money.

How did you like your alignment setting?

I ask because I'm having my alignment checked. I run BS in autox, with Konis and hotchkis front bar, sport package, but 18" wheels (F14s) on re71 tires (275/35 square).

Current setup is as follows:

Front camber: -1.25/-1.0 (not adjustable)
Front Toe: 6min toe out (.1 deg, .031in)
Rear Camber: -1.75/-1.75
Rear Toe: 18 min toe in (0.3 deg, .094in)

It was suggested (by an experienced, but non-370z guy) that I should change rear camber to -2 and rear toe closer to 0. After reading up on here, it seems like people say -1.5 or -1.8 is better.

I was thinking of making the following change:

Front: no change
Rear Camber: no change
Rear toe: 0-5 min (.083 deg) leaning toward 5

What does everyone think?

I ended up only changing the rear toe to 4 min toe in. Took it for a test drive in an abandoned parking lot and it seemed to do better in a sweeping turn. Nothing drastically different, but it rotated slightly better. I'll know for sure after the next autocross. :driving:

This is a solid spec expecially on OEM suspension. :tiphat:

Ok how we supposed to figure out toe length when machine does degrees?

simple trigonometry

But where's the measurement coming from? 1 degree at the hub wouldn't be 1 degree at the rim. I don't see it being 100% accurate every time.

Any flat edge on the face of the wheel can be used to measure toe, at the track here is what we use:

Longacre Deluxe Toe Plates 79505

AK370Z

Do you still go to NNJR at Metlife? I have seen a few Z there, but never got a chance to speak to any of them.