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I just saw a bunch of posts about taking out the rear sway. I dont think I would take the front one out ever. The rear is my question. Im
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#1 (permalink) |
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I just saw a bunch of posts about taking out the rear sway. I dont think I would take the front one out ever. The rear is my question. Im on coils but I think the spring rate is 12 or 14 in the back.
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#3 (permalink) |
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So what do you recommend for spring rates and would you recommend no sway in the back. I would lile to put a whiteline up front.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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#6 (permalink) |
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As long as you guys are way off track talking about spring rates like you know something (and I don't!). Not trying to hyper-optimize, but give me a general ballpark answer here...
On my 370, I'm currently running JRZ's low-end dampers with some fairly soft springs that were packaged with them at 650 and 500. It doesn't feel as stiff as it could, but with these dampers it's not that bad. I've got Hotchkis swaybars on (the front is among the thickest commercial ones available), with their rear set to full-soft. I've done a lot of experimenting with that rear sway setting over the past year and I know it's still too much rear sway. The only time I've ever had success with the car feeling better with a stiffer rear setting was when I was suffering from a lack of front camber and I was stiffening up the rear sway as a bandaid, trying to force the rear to lose traction as fast as the front to balance out the car and prevent understeer. I'm on RS3 tires currently and the setup works ok, I can drive it. I think what I'd like to do, even on the current tires, is dump the rear swaybar, and then maybe up the rear spring rate to compensate a bit. It could probably use more spring rate all around in general on top of that. Then there's the fact that I'm going to start experimenting with switching from my RS3 to some real slicks a few months down the road, and I've heard you generally up spring rates with that change as well (although on the flipside, I don't want them so hard that I can't get traction in the wet with rain tires either). So... from the 650/500 setup I'm on now, any thoughts on (a) what numbers to move those to now, on the RS3's, while killing the rear sway and gaining some overall springrate, and (b) would your answer be different moving up to slicks (and I guess (c) is it possible to have a spring setup that's good for slicks and wets without swapping springs?). |
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#8 (permalink) |
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No aero yet, not planning on it for a little while. (And no, unfortunately I tossed my OEM rear sway ages ago, before I realized it might be nice to try it with the Hotchkis front!).
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#9 (permalink) |
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You want one? I've got one taking up space in my shed. I'm local and you can have it for $25 or a bottle of bourbon.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Ok, so I swapped out my 18k front springs for 14k and my 14k rear springs for 12k.
Re-installed my whiteline sway bar in the rear. Moved whiteline front bar to full stiff. Now... I need to adjust the perches as this lowered my car about 2"! I also need to buy some new tires. Tried to order a set of federal RSR's... Cause they were ultra cheap. I received an email today saying they were out of stock... Back to the drawing board!
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#14 (permalink) |
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How did you like your RS3's Mike? I have a set of 275 square for the stock sport rims I need to put on soon (33k miles on the re050's is more than enough) that I'm debating autocrossing on. Other options are my r888's I use mainly for HPDE and a set of big ole Hoosier A6's I was hoping to save for when I have a bit more seat time. 18's are a tough size for tires for this car! My enkeis with the toyo r888's take a 275/40 to keep near stock diameter. Odd sizing
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#15 (permalink) | |
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I don't like the new price gouging of the RS3's... up $200 a set... I remember the good ole days when RS3's were $500 a set.
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