![]() |
Can you Auto Z Drivers Speak out
The only z i can find at a reasonable price is a base no package auto...
i was gonna put an amuse on it anyways so w.e but i wanted to experience manual but auto is the only thing i can find that i can purchase next month or so. has anyone picked auto and looked back? |
No,
It's fúcking AMAZING (if you don't want to go forced induction) LITERALLY THE BEST on ANY car outside... A GTR (debatable) or any other 100k+ car I have ever driven |
its a 2011 with 11k miles and 25800 right now so im trying to get it otd for 26000 with 15000 down. base no sports and auto, assuming i pay the car off in a year and give myself an amuse kit and maybe wheel further down the road, should i reconsider or go with this
|
Quote:
|
As for negotiation, I recommend paying LESS than the KBB trade in price, PR if it's recertified, up to $500 MORE than the TRADE IN price.
Feel free to call/text(preferred) me any time regarding the Auto or negotiation (31O)eight nine three-42O7 |
Quote:
Besides getting called out for not "having a driver's car", and the 50-100lb increase... It's awesome!!! If you heavily track you MAY need a trans cooler, MAY, I REALLY don't want to turn you off from it because it kicks so much àss |
I live in jersey and am on the parkway a lot. The Z's man pedal is relatively light and not too shabby in traffic. Try driving an evo or dsm with a heavy clutch in traffic. You'll run to a Z after that.
|
real men drive stickshift.
|
just did kbb and it says 29k for 2011 base auto 11k miles excellent condition.
on cars.com its up for just under 26k sooooooo... |
Quote:
You see, OP, you'll have to live with those comments |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
those comments butt hurt my man pride already and i dont even HAVE the car yet
|
Quote:
|
I typed in 12k miles because I like to think, lets say (god forbid) the SHTF, and you gotta sell it, you'll get a bit less than the trade in hopefully, but you've put a bit of miles on it
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...FAD0C45FDD.jpg |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
ahhhh thanks yea i got that too, so the price there asking aint too bad then maybe ill just pull the trigger on this one then
|
is it white?
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
lol ive been looking for white for half a year dont wanna change on the color just yet not that desperate.
but when you say trade in value and pay just that do you mean OTD or just for the car itself? right now im between these two the manual white z i called and talked to already 2011 Nissan 370Z, $28,975 - Cars.com 2011 Nissan 370Z, $25,995 - Cars.com |
Car itself
|
hermm then im gonna take a wild guess and say that the base one without sports would be the better deal here.
|
In a M6, the sport means more because or the rev matching... In an auto, you get the downshifts,
So the sport package gets you brakes and a crappy LSD, figure $1200 for brakes and $1000 for the LSD EDIT: I KNOW the SP gets more than that, but those are the most worthwhile things |
the wheeeeeeeeelz are another 1k too no?
|
Yeah, the base IS the better deal, but you have to see how much you can lowball first before you get a proper apples to apples comparison
|
the auto also has paddle shifters just incase i need to shift down to accelerate right?
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
Have you even test driven a 370Z??? |
kinda just gonna jump into like cold water and warm up as i swim.
but yea i mean i know the shifters are there but do you use them for such? |
Quote:
It functions like a manual in tiptronic, if you floor it while the car is in 7th, it ain't going nowhere quickly until you shift down Leave it in D, it shifts to the lowest gear it physically can |
i just dont want to be missing out on the brakes are the brakes on the base really all the great i know there brembos right? but are the stock brakes not strong or something?
|
Quote:
Now. I will make the recommendation that you don't buy the car... Stick around a bit longer before you pull the trigger and go on A FEW test drives... They're Akebonos, the base brakes are OK for DD-ing, and your first few track days... They heat up much quicker casing brake fade. That's the issue |
its gonna be my dd no track for me dont wanna die to early.
slightly misinformed here. Honestly the whole auto vs manual thing for me is 30% of the issue. People say "theres just something to driving stick" and i can kinda understand what there getting at. But if you drive manual im gonna assume you cant do much but drive. although this is what it should be i cant help but pick up my phone for an important call. Im gonna take your advices on sticking around longer and the auto thing thanks so much for the help really helped |
I drive auto and I believe that our 7AT is the best traditional automatic transmission out there.
It shifts pretty fast, I believe less than half a second. The paddles are column mounted and very large, same as the GT-R's. They feel great to shift with, not clicky and flimsy like a lot of other paddles. A lot of other cars will automatically upshift at redline when in manual mode, and a good deal won't let you downshift aggressively (ISF Im looking at you). The 7AT in the Z will hold gears and will let you downshift down to redline. It's also not much heavier than the manual trans, I think the number I read was 25 or 50 lbs, whereas most are over 100lb weight increases. A manual is definitely more fun when you are just driving for fun though. It's one more interaction you have with the car. But having that additional action also makes it more of a chore if you ever have to drive in a traffic jam, or city traffic. Off the line, I believe our auto gives us a pretty good advantage. I have a friend who recently bought a modded STi, putting 350 hp to the wheels. We had a couple runs on a country road, and due to having perfect and quick shifts everytime, the 7AT helped me pull on his car. And I sat in his car on a more technical course, he wasn't willing to go down a gear for some turns, which means he wasn't as quick coming out of the corner, putting him out of his powerband. Meanwhile, I was always able to keep in the 4.5-7k range, and it made several seconds difference. The advantage would be lost on a full sized track though, where speeds are higher. I've had a lot of people who talk down to me for getting an automatic on a sports car, but after I show them how it works and the things I could do with it, they always change their opinions. |
:iagree: with 100% of what this man is saying.
He speaks sense and wisdom |
I really, really love the AT on this car. Stock the shifts are faster on the average than any human can shift (as evidenced by marginally faster mean 0-60 and 1/4 mile times compared to the 6MT), and with a tune you can make the shifts even faster and firmer.
Reviews have been, to he best of my knowledge, universally positive (note: the G37's trans tune may be different, and has been slightly less adored...). Short of a GT-R or PDK Porsche, you won't find anything like it. Also, no evidence of greater drivetrain losses than the MT on dynos (full lock up torque converter from gears 2-7, and cf composite driveshaft probably help there) , which is remarkable, but has been repeatedly empirically verified. And -- you get automatically rev matched downshifts, even on the non-sport package version of the 7AT. Unless you do not consider the act of operating a motor vehicle to be "driving" in the absence of a third pedal (and to be fair, many folks do feel that way), I think you we quite pleased with the 7AT. |
Ive got the G in AT which I am pretty sure in 100% the same as the Z. I made a Grounding Kit and I now can shift faster than anyone with a manual and 90% of people with AT. I have taken cars soley because of the quicker gear grabs.
|
Besides, a MT is the best anti auto theft/car jacking device there is! The idiots can't drive a stick :)
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:50 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2