I know this car!! :driving:

I'm always looking for my next autocross tire and noticed that the new Bridgestone is what everyone is using at nationals. With the new 285 released I wanted to ask if anyone has used these with our low camber cars and had any overheat or roll over issues? I run on concrete often and dont want anything to wear out tremendously fast.
Really hoping the Kumho v720 will get released, i loved the XS but havent seen any 19's

THANK YOU! haha.. i never saw this post. Yes. I drove well that day. Loved the course and was able to put down some good laps. I was suppose to run 3rd with you guys. But I was told to run 2nd heat. You did well too. I'm actually friends with the EVO guys (sang yi). Very nice guy. Believe me or not, my tires had 145+ runs as of that day. I didn't get grip first run. I actually had to let some air out and kind of get grip with expanse of rolling tires (slightly). Whatever it takes, right? haha ..

oh my! thank you for the pics! great pics!

Great driving man! So what's done to the Z that puts it in SSM? just curious. 34 raw time with 35+ pro drivers week before national is a da*n good driving on any scale! great job.

Nice pics! so next time someone tells you AK do not exist and last I heard he is a robot, show them these pics hahah

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5708/...bbf1ebe9_c.jpgDSC_0827 by brendan sobers, on Flickr
What I like about this pic is you can see how front tire traction diminishes with a turn of a steering wheel..

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/676/2...6df4074e_c.jpgDSC_0831 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/753/2...228a34d4_c.jpgDSC_0833 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

I remember that course. NNJR really puts on some fun events. Your car also sounds great.

Anyone use Forgestar 14's in 18" for autocross? I am trying to find a good 18" wheel for autox that comes in gunmetal and is not over $1500.

There is a guy up in Huntsville that uses them with bridgestones, I don't know his username off the top of my head though

I was thinking about getting them with the RE71r's too. seemed like it would be a decent combo.

Zpower86, he ran that combo last time I raced with him and beat my *** on hankooks, the bridgestones seem like the Hoosier of street tires

Possibly looking into replacing my KW v3's with the new BC DR coils. The digressive dampening may be a bit better to autocross and I can get custom spring rates and valving to better fit my needs compared to the softer progressive springs on the kw's. I was thinking 13/11k springs - what's everyone's thoughts on this? I'm running in ASP using a 295/30r19 R888 setup this year. Hoping to move to Hoosier A6's next year.

Too soft at both ends.

fwiw I have 1100 lb springs up front and 900 lb springs rear. Could probably go a little softer in the rear (maybe 800 lb springs).

How rough are those rates on the streets?

IMHO it's not too bad. Wouldn't want to do any serious road tripping in the car but a 4-5 hour drive isn't too miserable. I do have a slightly higher tolerance though for NVH.

You run 315 Hoosiers (bro), right gomer? That's some crazy spring rates! equivalent to about 20k/16k. Haven't heard of anyone running those rates but I guess when you have that much sticky tire...

Yeah I run 315 A7's. The spring rates aren't really that crazy for a full on autox build. The 370 just requires a lot of spring. If you go and look at other threads on here you'll see other's that went all out race suspension have really stiff springs also.

I used to run up near 1400/1200 on the BSP car, which was probably a few hundred pounds lighter than any of the 370's in ASP. Cars roll a lot with that much sticky tire.

Took your advice and went stiffer. 18k front 14k rear. Interested to see how the digressive shock, custom swifts with matched valving and pillowball Shock mounts do compared to the KW's. Have my appointment for corner balance and alignment in a few weeks. I will still be daily driving the car a bit, but it's slowly winding down. So in the past I went with -2.5 front -1.8 rear camber. Deciding between -2.8 front -1.8 rear or -3 and -2. I'll be running a square OEM rear Rays setup with 295/30r19 R888's. Not sure if I'll have fitment issues with the front but I know I've had a 295/30 Hoosier A6 on the OEM 19x9 with no rubbing. Any suggestions to what I should do for alignment settings?

Still sorting mine out to be honest. Last season I ran ~-3.0 front, ~1.5 rear.

So I stumbled in to an AutoX today, it was an event in Savannah (SCCA Buccaneer I think) I found online yesterday, so I was a bit under prepared....

My Z is 100% base stock 7AT, I looked up the class I should be running online as I signed up and I ran B Street.

We were given six runs... So I had room for improvement, especially as a n00b.

First run: 62.019 VDC On

Last run: 55.421 VDC off

5/9 B class finish, Cars beaten:
Boxster
Corvette
Boxster S
S2000

So much fun. Think I'm addicted. I liked B Street but I saw some 350s in ST(?) Classes so I might try that next. Will post videos when they get to me.


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Be careful. Autox can be a very addictive and expensive hobby.

Keep your car in B-street for now. More competitive and since you're limited on modifications you can do, it's cheaper. Trust us. lol

So, for my future reference, looking at the 2016 guidelines (shopping list) for B street:

13.2
-A,E: I can get paddles for my convenience.
-G:Roll bars can be bolted or welded in, cages must be bolted
-I: I can add a rear trailer hitch.

13.3
- Any tires that fit the OEM wheels and fenders are OK.

13.4
- I can use rims +/- 1 inch from stock. Spacers are OK, but iffy.

13.5
- Shock absorbers.... No idea... Help?

13.6
- I can get new pads, and should probably upgrade to the oem sport brakes.

13.7
- I can use 1 aftermarket bar. Any bushing material is permitted.

13.8
- Suspension... pls help?

13.10
- Does this mean I can use a cat-back exhaust?

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Bridgestone RE-71R 285/35r19 square on OEM Rays 19x9 front 19x10 rear rims is your best bet here. You can get a set of those for $600 on the forum if you're patient.

Basically Koni Yellows are your most reasonable choice here. Won't break the bank completely, adjustable, quality shocks. Can't change the springs though.

Hotchkis front sway bar, OEM rear bar. Again something you can usually pick up cheap on the forum.

And yes you can use a cat-back exhaust. Not much else for power mods or that'll bump you up a class. STR sucks for the Z because you're limited to 255 tire size which is nothing for such a heavy car.

No reason to get a roll bar or cage just for autox.
Trailer hitch is completely legal. A lot of people have little utility trailers to get there autox wheels/tires to the event.

IIRC spacers are illegal in stock class. Last I knew there were very specific rules regarding what limited deviations from stock wheel offsets could be. Allowing spacers would fly in the face of that rule.

My understanding is going to oem sport brakes would be illegal unless you swap everything that makes a sport model a sport model. It's an all or nothing type proposal.

As far as pads go I'd recommend Ferodo DS2500 pads.

Won't the change in width from Base to Sport wheels knock me out of BS?

Yes, just kee the stock 19's and run the re-71. I run rs3's right now on stock wheels and kee top pax almost every event, koni yellows and eibach front bar with hawk pads waiting to get put on

You cannot use the the sport model wheels and stay in B-Street without putting every sport model feature on your car.

Ok, I didn't see that he had a base car

My highest priorities right now are taking care of grip and body roll. Researching now if 245/275 tires might fit my base rims. Koni yellows are going through the home approval process, but I had to concede the CF paddle shifters.

Here's video from our first points autox event of the year. I think the 370Z can still be competitive even though it's moved up into B Street last year. It might depend on the course. We have several drivers who run corvettes and S2000s in BS in my region, several of whom are nationally competitive. I guess we'll see as the year progresses.

1st in BS, 3rd PAX of 131.

https://youtu.be/m3Krt2dmweg

Congrats on the placing, wish i could drive like that ....

Hi, I have been lurking for quite a while. I have a 2015 Nismo. I am running it at the El Toro Pro Solo this weekend. Up against the fastest Z06 guys in the country in A Street. I didn't see any other 370's on the roster. Anyone showing up?

I'll watch any video you post but just the thought of going against those Z06 guys... ::shudder::

I can't even beat the S2000s in my class right now. Got front sway, re-11s at 245/275, and plans for konis in the future but I figure I should torture my stock 225/245 tires as much as possible.

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Strano, Pozzi, and Peters; yeah, you're screwed. It's still a damn good time though.

Hey guys/girls

My first ever AutoX competition will be this Sunday in Nebraska. I am signed up for the starting line school as part of a sponsorship from the SCCA to the motorsports team, part of this school is entrance into the AutoX event on Sunday.

I have read about 25 of the pages from this post, some in the front side, some in the back.

does anybody have a solid list of tips for a first timer that are Z specific? like a summary of the things you've learned, dos and don'ts etc.

Thanks!

KBC749

Nothing special for the Z, just turn off VDC


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:iagree:

If it's your first autocross in general just go out and have fun, pay attention to safety meetings and enjoy, don't try too hard, smooth is fast

Water. Take water. You'll be there quite some time.

:iagree:

Z specific tips. I assume you will be running in B Street. I would advise running a higher tire pressure in the front so the tires don't roll over or skip. I run 38-39 PSI in the front, and 32-33 in the rear when hot. So you might start the day with 37f/32r, then monitor the pressure after each run to stay around 38/33. Don't floor it abruptly when exiting a fast corner...most of the time you'll want to roll on the throttle. A better way to say this might be, don't give it 100% throttle unless you're driving in a straight line. I usually start with about 35% full tank of gas (per my OBD-II reader). At the starting line, I'll rev the engine to about 3000 rpm, lift, then as the revs drop to 2500 rpm, then I drop the clutch and roll on the throttle simultaneously. Try to shift from 1st to 2nd gear close to redline (giving you the fastest acceleration), unless that requires shifting IN a turn -- these cars are tough enough to get smooth in a straight line, let alone in a curve.So it's better to shift early and keep the car settled as you enter the first corner.

General autocross tips. Walk the course 3 times at least (requires arriving early). As you're walking it, think about where you'll be looking when you're at that spot during your run. This will help you recognize where you are when you're at speed. Smooth is fast, yes maybe, but that doesn't mean you can't turn the wheel fast (for example, in a tight/offset slalom). Try to get rides with fast drivers in similar cars.