Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ
 

For any of you who have questions about what to do for your first HPDE / Track Day, please read the following:
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Brakes

• The OEM pads will technically function for a track day... but for the love of god just buy Carbotech pads from Z1 Motorsports.
• Recommendation:
  • Front: Carbotech XP10
  • Rear: Carbotech XP8
• NOTE: I ran with Front XP8 pads... the OEM Rear pads were down to the backing plate after 1/2 day of lapping. I.E. get rear track pads.

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Brake Fluid

• You must Must MUST, flush your entire brake system with nothing other than Motul RBF600 brake fluid.
• MISTAKE: I used Superblue fluid and it boiled on my 1st track day (pedal to the floor / scared to death / don't use it!!!)

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Tires

• The OEM tires are great for beginner / intermediate track drivers.
• Start all 4 tires at approx ~ 32 psi (cold temp)
• Hot temperature, measured when JUST off a session, should be closer to 38 psi

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Suspension

• It ain't broken... don't fix it.
• The OEM suspension is FINE unless you plan on ONLY tracking your car
• You do not need extra camber in the front or rear.
• My tires wore evenly with the stock alignment, not to mention that they didn't wear that much. GO Bridgestones!

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Interior

• Remove anything that isn't bolted down. Spare tire, rear tools, floor mats, goodies from center console and glove box, EVERYTHING.

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Engine

• An oil cooler is REQUIRED, unless you want to try out limp-mode. My 25 row Z1 oil cooler worked perfectly and I didn't "hold back" at all when on the track. 20 min sessions Ambient temp = 80f Max Oil Temp = 240f

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After EACH run

1. Park the car
   • Don't set the parking brake.
   • The brake pads will fuse themselves to a hot rotor
   • Don't set the parking brake.
2. Pop the hood (helps engine cool down)
3. Check tire pressures
   • Tire Pressure can increase +10psi just from the heat.
   • Make sure the tire pressure is measured RIGHT after you park the car for the most accurate reading.
   • Wear gloves when checking tire pressures, my valve stem cap melted a little from the brake heat. H O T.
   • I tried to keep a max pressure of 40psi.
   • Others: feel free to chime in here for ideal hot pressures.
4. Fill up your gas tank after each run.
   • YES, after each one.
   • You will get fuel starvation in right hand turns otherwise.

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Wear Items to inspect from track duty

Brake Pads
- Q: Do I have enough brake pad for this track day?
- A: If the backing plate of the brake pad is "thicker" than the remaining pad material = Buy new brake pads.

• Wheels studs - mine (ARP) are lifed @ 2 years .. wheel nuts at the same time - I don't use ali nuts - if you do, they need to be replaced every "n" times they are torqued where N is ~20-30
• Coolant hoses are replaced @ 3 years
• Calipers ought not need replacement, but certainly service them with replacement seal kit and new pistons.
• You should have braided lines already, replace if the braiding has fretted or appears worn/frayed
• Check backlash in the diff - may need to replace the crushable spacer - if so, do pinion and carrier bearings plus seals as well
• Check state of CV joints in rear axles - also splines into drive flange/rear hub
• Check state of front and rear wheel bearings
• Check state of ball joints in front suspension
• Check steering tie rod ends
• Check steering rack mounts - they have been known to develop cracks especially if you like "yumping" kerbs
• Check state of all suspension bushes - if you have replacement bushes (SPL etc), check for wear
• Check state of serpentine belt/accessory drive belts
• Check wheels "carefully" for cracks against the hub/centre and where spokes join the wheel barrel, and/or rim edge damage
• Change all fluids (brake, clutch, engine, gearbox and diff)

Great post for first-timer track tips. Can't express enough on the brake fluid as that happened to me this last Friday but luckily I was in the pits when the brake pedal hit the floor, not on the track.

I've never had a problem with fuel starvation however, I'm guessing that's largely dependent on track formation and car setup (i.e. with stock tires/suspension I don't get enough G's on our tracks to encounter it).

How noisy/dusty are xp8s for daily driving?

Thats a really good post, another great brake fluid is Torque RT700.

Awesome info man.

Great post. This should be stickied in the Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip section.

Great great write up man! Just what people should look out for. Great advice on the breaks specially. This is so important and will keep you safe while enjoying your hobby.

You should add in the "after each run section" Keep your car on for 10-15 minutes to bring back down all fluid temperatures back to normal operating temp before turning off
ignition.

Expect 5-7x the dust you get with the stock pads.

Little bit of noise after 3k at really light breaking at traffic lights. Not bad enough to turn heads if you try to keep them quiet.

dont forget the clutch fluid you will boil that too, just use the same fluid u upgrade with the brakes and should be all good! If you track with synchro rev on you will eventually boil it WAY sooner.

ATE Gold and Superblue (just color difference) should work as well. I see lots of guys using it in other vehicles at the track without issue, maybe you had a one-off problem there?

I haven't personally put it in mine yet, but I was planning to try it on my next flush during October. Been running RBF600 so far without issue, but I like the idea of being able to swap colors on flush. I guess I'll report back for sure in Nov :)

ate is garbage. go search on their failure rate

I use motul 660 with upgrade SS brake lines...

Google searching didn't seem like it turned up an inordinate number of complaints, but I'll take your word for it :) Some bad traffic, but I can find complaints about anything you can imagine heh.

Anyone run Castrol SRF in these cars yet? Another option, but even pricier than the RBF600 I'm used to (by about +50%).

This is a really sweet thread, thanks for posting!

Just adding my tips in which i think are the most important ones for first timers

-Dont go with a piss pour attitude, this includes but not limited to... showing off, eager to beat a driver/car, thinking you know how to race because you blast around turns on the steets and so on...

-If avalible, get a instructor to go with you for your first session

-be safe, make smart decisions and have fun.

As for the topic on brake fluid. My buddy boiled his oem fluid in his Evo, i didnt on my first time with my car because i wasnt pushing it hard at all. I switched to Motul RBF 600 my second time out with my 431hp setup and good thing as well because i beat the **** out of my brakes. My poor red brembo calibers are now purple.

:iagree:

Great advice. If everyone is cool and respectful, then everyone will have a good time. All ti takes is one jackass to make it suck for everyone. Don't have an ego.

Search on SCCA/NASA forums, you will get better answers. They are like Hawk HPS, all hype and useless.

And yes I used the SRF too

Sweet post!

I would also mention Safety First. Of course this would be stressed at any driver meeting, but having a good Helmet that is up to code is a must. I would highly recommend some form of neck protection as well.

I would recommend checking lugs with a torque wrench before starting each run.

Personally I've never had problems with ATE SuperBlue on my 240sx on track.

if you're worried about dust with track oriented brake pads for daily driving, id simply suggest you swap them out between the track pads and daily pads. the pad swap on our cars is SO easy.

its as simple as lifting the car, removing the wheel, turning the steering wheel so you have more room, then remove 2 cotter pins, remove the 2 retaining bars and the retaining clip. voila, your pads are free! shouldnt take you more than 20-30min per side!

Very true. :iagree:

The XP8 is slightly quieter, but really annoying. It also releases a nasty dust that is very hard to clean. My wheels are pitted now because of it

Carbotech XP10 brakes - YouTube

Take the tow hook out of your trunk (when you pull the tools) and PUT IT ON YOUR CAR! There's a removable plate in your grill and it just screws in. Don't be that guy that's beached for 3-4 sessions because there wasn't a tow hook and you went shell collecting... they WILL leave you out there, we will all point and laugh, and you will sit.. there's no reimbursement for dumbsh*ttery!

A friend of mine's father races vintage with his track-prepped 240Z using ATE and hasn't run into any issues with boiling his fluid.

Motul's fluid is expensive but mind-blowingly good, if the numbers are to be believed. RBF660 puts even RBF600 to shame. By the numbers, Motul is better than ATE, although by just enough.

I use project mu g-four 335 and XP10, thinking of bumping up to XP12 next time.

people saying XP pads are really noisy - did you bed them in correctly? mine HARDLY make noise.

Its a lot of factors, weight, tires, pads, caliper size etc. My friend uses ATE on his track 350z with BBK without a problem but my other friend uses ATE on his full weight 350z with base model 2 piston brakes and runs into boiling issues.

Then saying ATE is a bunch of crap would be misplaced, simply that the 370Z needs a higher dry boiling point, considering track use.

It just depends on the car...a Miata will do fine with ATE.

The 370Z has crap for brake cooling. Use the better higher boiling point fluids and don't skimp here.

The same brakes on the G37 have way less issues than we have at the track, so its all in the cooling.

I've not had problems using ATE brake fluid... but I usually flush the Friday before. Worst part about them is that it comes in a 1L can. Don't think you can save the extra more than few days! :P

XP8 & XP10s are very quiet until you wear off the bedded pad material... I have been swapping to bobcats when I change tires.

Helpful Check list. Usually last minute getting ready so put this list togehter to make sure I leave home with everything I need. I added some track stuff/ "day of" as it might be helpful to first timer. (PDF & Word if you wnat to custom)

nice^

Nice PDF. I'd suggest recommending a fuller tank though (I've been topping up every other session, I only get like 2-3 dots down between refills), and putting the tire pressure check further up the list (e.g. pop hood if you want first, then go straight for the tires before they cool off, then worry about other things). I don't think I'd roll out on the stock fuel system with even 3/4 tank, risky for fuel cut.

Agree - fuel is tricky and more is better. Depends on track config if can get a couple dots below 3/4. Was at Pocono this past weekend and had problems on super speedway section with cutout but was at 2/3 tank - was last session of day (already filled it twice) and decided to just pit and call it a day. But on other tracks have gotten away with two sessions before top off

OP, your valve stem caps won't melt if you just take them off before racing.
Also, I know the Motul660 is great fluid, but had a question. Is the AP racing 5.1 fluid garbage for the track?

The e-brake on the Z is a drum type that expands outward inside the hubs. It won't mess with your calipers or rotors if you pull it after run sessions.

I've tracked with both ATE super blue and RBF600. I prefer the RBF600 because the superblue stains everything. But I haven't boiled the brakes with either one. If you're having lots of issues with boiling your fluid despite having changed the fluid and pads, evaluate your braking technique. If you 'street brake' and drag the brakes to gradually slow down, you'll overheat them. Work on 'track braking' which is rolling smoothly and quickly into 100% braking force (or close to 100%) and then rolling back off as you're turning in. Less overall time on the brakes = more time for them to be cooling for the same kinetic energy dissipated.

Consider adding a wheel chock to your gear/tool bag. I have a piece of 40mm square timber that is 250mm long that lives in the plastic box that contains spare brakefluid, pads, some tools etc .... and if the pit area is on a slight slope, I chock the car so I don't need to use the parking brake.

I also carry a couple of spare "P" clips that secure the dowel pins that retain the pads (on the Akebono calipers). I bent one once and snapped it trying to straighten it and had to fabricate a retainer using some wire I had in the bottom of my bits and pieces box. Is a lot simpler when you have the proper part.

If you are going to be pumping gas off the stupid red bottles, you need to get yourself one of these

Random must have garage tool, gas pump - YouTube

But they can melt in place and sieze, that's the big concern. If your rear brakes are super hot and you pull that handle and park it while it cools, you could find your parking brake shoes glued/melted to the drum.

+1