Your lack of swearing is absolutely remarkable.

Holy **** dude! I would of **** my pants. Glad your ok and back at it.

:eek: man thanks to god that you and your car dont crash!!!

Is a dry 23 degrees really worth it? The wets actually 1 degree lower. To me, for price, the 600 seems better.

The man is talking sense .

660 isn't worth it unless you are a race team and flush/bleed every time you go to the track, and can afford the added cost.

Never mind, just googled the difference. Well still. 23 degrees seems very low to me when we are talking about 600 degrees. I can't see a track car teetering right on that line where 23 degrees makes or "brakes" you. Get it? Brakes you? Haha


Cost aside whats wet vs dry? I mean brake fluid is wet no? Isn't that the important number to watch? Again the 600 is 1 degree better than the 660 anyways in the wet.

Wet is when the brake fluid is contaminated with water, which inevitably happens over time, unless you only run in perfectly dry conditions and low humidity and swap all the fluid just before every race weekend or something. Bleeding regularly helps, but for those not on infinite time+money budgets for swapping brake fluid the wet temp is important.

Like he says, wet is above a certain percentage of water absorbed by the fluid. I confess I don't know at what percentage the fluid is considered 'wet' off the top of my head.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, that means it actively absorbs water out of the air. For a track car, anything above 1% water content is usually enough to warrant a flush and refill.

Anything above 4% is dangerous, even for a street car.

I use 600 in my clutch, but I race in the desert and I do bleed them a lot, whether they need it or not. Socal and the deserts north and east of here are obviously very very arid. A lot of the of the GTR guys have told me just to switch to Endless fluid for all the reasons you guys are talking about, but so far it has been a non issue.

Hygroscopic ! :p

Shut up brainiac

That's how you grow plants in your closet right??

:bowrofl:

brake line upgrades?
 

Any suggestions on stainless steel bake lines??

Goodridge.

Sent from my Nexus 5

Z1 premium

Z1 SS brake lines with the motul brake fluid on my car and works great

There are basically two "styles" of replacement SS brake line you can go with. The OEM-style ones retain all of the connections and mounting points of the originals (it's like, 2 little lines attached to connection blocks that screw down to the suspension). Then there's the straight kind that are just a single line of the correct length. In Z1's store, "premium" is OEM-style and the not-premium is the single-line kind. If you do the OEM ones you don't have to change anything but the lines. The straight ones have fewer connections and allow you to remove a few brackets and things to dump a little weight from the front suspension. That's what I'm running, but I had to put some plastic shields on my coilovers to make sure the threads on the coilover didn't try to rub the brake lines.

Wussy, just let 'em rub. A little Russian Roulette never hurt anyone...

Also, nice avatar pic - looks like CoA?

Yeah I got a CD full of pics from the photographers at the last CotA event. That track is amazing. I put a few in an album here: Nissan 370Z Forum - wstar's Album: COTA pics

That's why I went premium. Rubs etc scare me on a brake line. But mine are rusted solid now so a blow out failure could happen anytime too. :tup:

:facepalm:

More joints to fail is not superior to a hypothetical possibility of rubbing, which would only happen if you didn't spend 5 minutes ensuring that everything was routed and secured properly.

I just ordered the non-premium lines from Z1 at their recommendation. Their reasoning was the connection blocks just add another potential leak point. Made sense to me, not to mention you save a few bucks :tup:

Well nissan and millions went into multi joints so...

And you can't spot rubbing through metal collars. I think this is a terrible design!! I'll take OEM style thanks.

So don't use those collars, you're a smart boy, you can figure out another solution. I believe in you!


You can take whatever you want, but adding more places for leaks or failures to occur over a simpler and lighter design is a step backwards. That's plain and simple fact. :tup:

OR.. or.. stay with me.. use the collar with a rubber grommet designed for these sorts of applications. :rolleyes:

Bumping a great thread.

I can wait to track my Z... my car is ready... Z1 brake lines, Motul brake fulid, stoptech brake pads and Swift springs... :p

Oil cooler? And which pads?

i still have the oem one but im going to buy the Z1 25 rows oil cooler soon... and the pads are the Stoptech Street Performance for now... when i have to change the brake pads trust me...im going to buy the Ferrodo one ;) like i do on my STi :tup:

Man this thread is awesome! Since my last miesly post I have upgraded to a custom 40 row tall oil cooler with thermo plate and stoptech cross drilled slotted rotors, "race/street" pads and steel lines (pro kit) taking out a lot of OEM steel line and yes.... Rubber grommets at the rub points... Stance coils and upgrading the OEM camber arms to SPL/SPC whatever big *** camber arms. Looking to put in aftermarket control arms up front and tighten the suspension overall. There on some toyo rcomps as well for racing only. Still just doing autocross but the driving is way better than I ever expected. Will be moving from Kentucky to the new england region (Massachusetts) soon. Hope to get some track time in starting in spring. I am learning so much reading all of this over again from start to finish. Thanks!

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25 row is not enough for track btw, run atleast a 34 row

for some the 34 isnt even enough

I have a friend here in PR with the 25 rows in his Nismo and he dont have any issues with the Temp using the 25 rows.... Anyway the heats here are just 5 laps per heat... ;)

But thanks for the tip my friend....

Other thing that i want to install are the sways bars... Any recommendations???

I put my eye on the white lines for now

I did just dandy with a 25.

Don't do anything more other than an oil cooler. You don't even know what it's like in stock form yet. Don't be yet another guy who upgrades before he even knows what he needs to upgrade for.

both Martin and I have exceeded what a 34row cooler can do for us on track LOL, dont worry, you'll get there :D

I was already getting to that point when I sold the Z. Just saying, he'd be fine with a 25 for a while, especially as a beginner.

Besides, I don't need to worry about shitty OEM oil cooling systems now :-p

I'm still doing fairly ok with my 25-row cooling, but I went with the Series-9 (it's not as tall as the 34, but it's wider than the usual Series-6's on this car. It's basically closer to the 34-row's total surface area, but you're not putting rows behind the crash beam).

But, I've also opened up the airflow through my front grill and put in CSF's radiator without a condenser in the way. My temps have been edging up uncomfortably as I get faster, but still not quite a problem yet. Next on my list is to vent the hood to exhaust the high pressure rear side of the radiator, and do some better baffling to keep air from escaping the oil cooler / radiator stack to the sides/below. I suspect those two things will bring me back down to where I'm super-happy with temps again.