I'm gonna try xp12's and 10's maybe 8's out back. Is there an issue going to much of a spread?

Funny thing - I actually had the same problem with a set of newer rotors. They were pulsing fairly bad and I tried re-bedding my pads (changed to a set of EBC yellows). Didn't do anything. Went to a track day and REALLY eased onto the brakes knowing I had this pulsing problem, and by the time I drove home... pulsing was gone. I guess a couple 120-130 to 60-70mph stops fixed that problem up fairly well! (Warning: I don't recommend this as a fix at all lol just interesting how it took that kind of abuse to clean the rotors of deposits).

You'd lock up your fronts a good bit sooner than your rears, so...I dont know if I'd want a spread THAT wide.

I would do 12/10 on slicks and 10/8 on street tires. I run 12/12 but I have stoptechs.

Caliper shouldn't matter as long as it's 4+ piston setup. Pad material should be pretty equal front/rear. 10/10 12/10

12/8 would most likely cause more ice mode as the rears sensors are confused by the lack of comparative braking power.

But that's just my opinion...

I run Carbotech XP8 in the front and rear and i'm on R-comp tires. Brakes are fine by me??

I ran XP8's all around for the One Lap of America. Going to go to the 10/8 combo. 8's were fine, but just want a bit more aggressive in the fronts.

Tracy Ramsey

What is a good baseline for minimum pad depth on the XP10? I have a track weekend coming up in the fall and I'm trying to decide if I need to buy replacements now or if they will make it through one more weekend. I currently only have two weekends on this set of Carbotech XP 10's.


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Track weekend = how many sessions
- 6 x 20 min sessions / day ??
- How many days ??

If you're trying to get 2 whole days in have at least 50% pad material left.
One day... lil more than 1/3 brake pad remaining.

NOW...
How you determine how much pad material is left, is up to you.

:tup:

great thread, just read the entire thing

We should add tire recomendations
IMHO-
MPSS fade when hot, and hard turn in becomes scary
Stock Re050a are decent for beginners
Current running the crap out of my RE-11's, no real complaints, actually pretty amazing tire. You have to put some miles on for the lateral grip to really set in but cornering seems to be there right away
Ive been given the OP to run some trofeos R's, with diff rim and tire this weekend....ill report back on the R compound, which has always been like glue anyway
Oil recommendations for me:
Mobil 1 0w40 seems to just be fantastic in this car
next would be amsoil SS 10w30- very robust oil** then 0w then 5w
Ill be trying out some Xxcess here shortly but Always have had great results with Motul, ANYTHING

A practical minimum pad material depth is 6mm (about 0.25") because once yu go below this amount of pad material, the heat levels will cause wear rate to accelerate.

Which is, coincidentally, about the same thickness as the pad backing plate...easy to compare. If you have less material than the thickness of the plate, time to replace!

Tracy Ramsey

Hey there's some real world advice people.

Imma add that to the 1st page!

I am looking at installing a" Painless Dual Fan Controller Kit". Search it at Jegs.com or Summit.com. It will let you set temps when the fans come on at 50% and 100% (each selectable from 165 to 235 degrees). You can still use speed sensors and the A/C on at 100 %. It will also allow you to manual turn them on at 100% with a toggle switch. I haven't determined if the Z1 water temp probe kit will work with the bottom radiator hose. The probe thru the rad fins is not accurate (see summit .com reviews of the part). The best is to measure the temp return to the block. Hence the use of the Z1 hose adapter for a temp probe.

I should have prefaced this that I have a 180 degree thermostat, an upgraded radiator and 34 row oil cooler and track the car. Still working with water temps. Can control it by turning on the ac witch will turn on the fans to 100 % at any temp and makes it manageable, but not ideal.

osbornsm,

Great post. I just want to share something about stock suspension i am personally finding (may not apply to everyone, but hopefully it does so i know im not alone on this lol). Although its fine for new guys, i am finding some outer tire tread wear so it my be difficult or impossible to have even tire wear the whole time. My tires were fine for the longest time until i started to get comfortable and increase my lap times which = driving harder. Now I cam considering new upper control arms to adjust camber for track day, along with some sway bars.

I talked to forum memeber Rusty about this (not sure if you know him or not). he is very helpful on this too , as were you :)

What do you think about outer tire tread wear on stock suspension?