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Originally Posted by PSCANLON99 +225lb driver OK...you are actually then sitting around 276 WHP at 225 lbs. of body weight.

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Old 06-26-2009, 12:39 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PSCANLON99 View Post
+225lb driver
OK...you are actually then sitting around 276 WHP at 225 lbs. of body weight.

Last edited by ZKindaGuy; 06-26-2009 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 06-26-2009, 10:50 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PSCANLON99 View Post
Being that the clutch kinda overheated to start we stopped pre-run burnouts...
Wait...you're burning out stock street tires?
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Old 06-26-2009, 11:43 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ML Tampa View Post
We had problems with the clutch in the beginning when we were popping the clutch in first gear at the start. The clutch stuck on us twice which returned us a 19sec and 34sec 1/4 mile, awesome! It made me sick. I thought I was going to have to replace the clutch after owning the car for only 3 months. We almost called it a day, but we let the clutch cool down and started running again without taching up at the tree.
This is not clutch "sticking," it's "slipping". The pressure plate/clutch springs don't have enough clamping force to either bring the engine speed down to the transmission speed, or make the tires spin and bring the transmission speed up to the engine speed. It usually only happens when the clutch is hot and you impart a bunch more heat into the disk, overheating it. If you keep on the throttle and keep slipping it after this has happened, you can "glaze" the clutch, where it will keep slipping until the gaze has been burnt off.

I did this to my Corvette somewhere between 10 and 20 times over the course of it's life and the stock clutch survived to 54,000 miles when I sold it. It does decrease the lifespan of the clutch, but doesn't neccesarily kill it right then and there.
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:19 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MightyBobo View Post
Wait...you're burning out stock street tires?
Yep, in retrospect it was kind of naive of us to do taking into consideration the results. Luckily we figured out lowering the tire pressure would give us the grip we were looking for.
As I stated in a previous post I had some experience in running bigger V-8's back in the days of my youth and I now realize I can't drive a 2009 370Z the same way I did my early 90's 5.0 or LT-1 Z-28's.
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ZKindaGuy View Post
OK...you are actually then sitting around 276 WHP at 225 lbs. of body weight.
Thanks for the new calculations! Where are you in Ohio Zkindaguy? I'm west of Cleveland about 25 miles.
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:25 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Thanks for the new calculations! Where are you in Ohio Zkindaguy? I'm west of Cleveland about 25 miles.
Columbus
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:30 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I'm 6'2"....what's your excuse 5'9"? (lol)
bout same height as me but i'm 50lb less
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:54 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Phimosis View Post
This is not clutch "sticking," it's "slipping". The pressure plate/clutch springs don't have enough clamping force to either bring the engine speed down to the transmission speed, or make the tires spin and bring the transmission speed up to the engine speed. It usually only happens when the clutch is hot and you impart a bunch more heat into the disk, overheating it. If you keep on the throttle and keep slipping it after this has happened, you can "glaze" the clutch, where it will keep slipping until the gaze has been burnt off.

I did this to my Corvette somewhere between 10 and 20 times over the course of it's life and the stock clutch survived to 54,000 miles when I sold it. It does decrease the lifespan of the clutch, but doesn't neccesarily kill it right then and there.
Cool, thanks for the info.
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Old 06-30-2009, 06:27 PM   #24 (permalink)
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So I ran my stock 370z base sport a few weekends ago. Very similar numbers.

1050ft. actual altitude
89F
70% humidity
29.8 mercury

DA = 3,751ft

60ft. 2.189
330 6.065
1/8 9.194
mph 78.96
1000 11.845
1/4 14.079
mph 101.18

Corrects to:

Stock and Mildly Modified Naturally Aspirated Engines
13.435 @ 106.099 MPH

Completely stock including spare and tools and 35psi. Half a tank of gas.

The scales read 3345 without me in it (+190lbs with clothes/helmet), but the scales at this track are known to fluctuate so not much use in the result.
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Old 07-01-2009, 09:56 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by zilent_jay View Post
So I ran my stock 370z base sport a few weekends ago. Very similar numbers.

1050ft. actual altitude
89F
70% humidity
29.8 mercury

DA = 3,751ft

60ft. 2.189
330 6.065
1/8 9.194
mph 78.96
1000 11.845
1/4 14.079
mph 101.18

Corrects to:

Stock and Mildly Modified Naturally Aspirated Engines
13.435 @ 106.099 MPH

Completely stock including spare and tools and 35psi. Half a tank of gas.

The scales read 3345 without me in it (+190lbs with clothes/helmet), but the scales at this track are known to fluctuate so not much use in the result.
There's your problem.
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Old 07-01-2009, 05:28 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyBobo View Post
There's your problem.
Not really. The DA of 3,751ft is my problem.

The car is picking up 22.2 mph in the last half and the corrected numbers are right where they should be, which is all I was concerned with. (benchmarking against my old 350z)

Yes, sub 2.0 60ft's are easily possible bone stock. No, it's not going to happen at this track on a test and tune night. They don't allow cars that avoid the water box to run in the groves(they force you to stage closer to the wall). They also rarely spray the track, so traction is always an issue for anyone on street tires.
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:13 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MightyBobo View Post
There's your problem.
Post up your timeslip. Show us how it's done.
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:53 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by zilent_jay View Post
Yes, sub 2.0 60ft's are easily possible bone stock. No, it's not going to happen at this track on a test and tune night. They don't allow cars that avoid the water box to run in the groves(they force you to stage closer to the wall). They also rarely spray the track, so traction is always an issue for anyone on street tires.
That's all you had to say, and it confirmed my statement. Test and tune nights will almost never hook well unless its a nice track. Nowhere in my statement did I say, "You suck, learn to drive". Im fully aware that a shitty track on a shitty night wont hook for ****.

The long story short is that, yes, indeed, the 60' is the problem. The altitude isn't the cause. But it sure may be the track prep (or lack thereof), the driver, or both.
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:58 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by t-ray View Post
Post up your timeslip. Show us how it's done.
Oh boy, here we go.

I have no intention to make my sports car thats designed for the road course, to the drag strip. I got over that **** with my 2000 Camaro. It was fun for a while. The high-11 seconds of fun got boring pretty quickly, and now I'll stick to AutoX-ing and road coursing, thank you.

But FWIW, I cut better 60's with my 235/16 Goodyear Eagle's . And yes, it was a 6-speed.
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:06 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MightyBobo View Post
Oh boy, here we go.

I have no intention to make my sports car thats designed for the road course, to the drag strip. I got over that **** with my 2000 Camaro. It was fun for a while. The high-11 seconds of fun got boring pretty quickly, and now I'll stick to AutoX-ing and road coursing, thank you.

But FWIW, I cut better 60's with my 235/16 Goodyear Eagle's . And yes, it was a 6-speed.
I misinterpreted your post. Sorry.

But there's nothing wrong with taking your car to the drag strip. Sure, it would be stupid to by this car just to drag race it, but it's a decent performer.
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