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Oil temps from time attack

Hey Guys, I have a 25 row z1 setrab oil cooler on my 370z and the temps get to 130+C which is about 266+F after about 5 laps. I was

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Old 07-11-2012, 01:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Oil temps from time attack

Hey Guys,

I have a 25 row z1 setrab oil cooler on my 370z and the temps get to 130+C which is about 266+F after about 5 laps.

I was thinking of upgrading tot he 34 row.

Does anyone else here using the 25 row unit and able to do long runs of 30 mins plus without oil temp issues?

Do you guys think the 34 row unit will solve the issue?

The air temps were fairly high in the high 80's low 90's here in Toronto during the track days.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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FYI, even with a 34 row, when you are doing 25-30 min sessions, you will still push 265 deg..... it just won't go past that. That's what I hit regardless of 90-100 deg.....
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What's your diff temp?
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What's your diff temp?
What i don't know won't hurt me
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Why, is the smoke that I have coming out of the diff vent tube bad?
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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What's your diff temp?
Thats the real question. Most people have no idea how hot its getting back there. I put finned Nismo cover which Im sure does next to nothing to cool things but some fins are better than none! Wish somone would make larger diff cover that allowed a little more fluid. I guess cooler is more effective but for me really isnt required. We were shooting mine with gun it was screaming hot. I think thats were we will be seeing most track car failures in cars that dont have a way to cool diff.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dwnshift View Post
What's your diff temp?
Hi - are you involved with the 370z running in the continental tire series?

I don't know what my diff temp is...thanks for the advice on that. I am running a quaife diff.

So I should change the diff oil how often and what would your recommend I use for oil?

Also, how much cooler will the car run with the 34 versus the 25 row setrab? any experience comparing the two?

Anyone have 35 row they want to sell?

I have a time attack event coming up at mosport in a couple of weeks and want to make sure the car runs as cool as possible.

Also on another note, I tried the carbotech xp12 up front and xp10 in the rear based on some advice from z1 motorsports....bad combination...the rears overheat and brake balance goes all to the front. xp12 all around will be a better option.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:11 AM   #8 (permalink)
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So I should change the diff oil how often and what would your recommend I use for oil?
If you drive the car fairly hard I would change it after 2-3 track events. Street driving is far less demanding, so about 5000 miles of street. I've used Motul, Redline and even Royal Purple in the rear end. I was using 80W90 but have switched to 75W140 to maintain viscosity at higher temps.

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Originally Posted by wutfun
I have a time attack event coming up at mosport in a couple of weeks and want to make sure the car runs as cool as possible.
COMSCC? What car class are you registered for? Mosport is a heavy throttle use track so you'll want the most cooling you can get. Wish I was going.

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Originally Posted by wutfun
Also on another note, I tried the carbotech xp12 up front and xp10 in the rear based on some advice from z1 motorsports....bad combination...the rears overheat and brake balance goes all to the front. xp12 all around will be a better option.
Are you sure? That seems unlikely that you are overheating the rears. Have you used temperature paint to see what rotor temps you have? I had ABS locking up the rear wheels very easily when I used the same compound all around, maybe you could jump up to XP16 if you are running on R-comp tires.
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
If you drive the car fairly hard I would change it after 2-3 track events. Street driving is far less demanding, so about 5000 miles of street. I've used Motul, Redline and even Royal Purple in the rear end. I was using 80W90 but have switched to 75W140 to maintain viscosity at higher temps.
Thanks I am going to put 75w140 in today then.


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COMSCC? What car class are you registered for? Mosport is a heavy throttle use track so you'll want the most cooling you can get. Wish I was going.
Ontario Time Attack Series (OTA). I am in the GT1 class. Yeah I have been going to mosport on and off now for about 20 years. It is by far my favorite track. This is the first time with the 370z. My previous cars were a gt3 and a c6 z06 and a long time ago - miata I think the track record in gt1 is in the 1:35 range, so we will see how I do.

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Are you sure? That seems unlikely that you are overheating the rears. Have you used temperature paint to see what rotor temps you have? I had ABS locking up the rear wheels very easily when I used the same compound all around, maybe you could jump up to XP16 if you are running on R-comp tires.
Yeah, I am sure . This was happening on a fairly small technical track (Toronto Motorsport Track) with not much time for cooling brakes. When I had the x12 on the front and x10 on the back the balance was ok at the beginning of the run, but towards the end of the run the front tires would lock up too easily because the rears were no longer applying enough braking force.

I happened to have some x10 front's so I put those on and the car maintained a better braking balance through the run, but I could not brake as hard without feeling the front brakes give up towards the end of the the braking zone at the end of the longest straight.

I use to run x12/x10 on my c6 z06 without any issues, but that car is lighter than the 370z and it does have brake cooling vents for the rear.

I created my own brake ducting for the 370 because the stillen kit was not available at the beginning of the season. I will be ordering the stillen kit just to get the mounting plate for the rotor so that the hose will pump air more towards the center of the rotor. The solution I created involved cutting a hole in the dust cover and riveting a flange to it. But the air is pushed more on the outer portion of the rotor than the center.
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wutfun View Post
Ontario Time Attack Series (OTA). I am in the GT1 class. Yeah I have been going to mosport on and off now for about 20 years. It is by far my favorite track. This is the first time with the 370z. My previous cars were a gt3 and a c6 z06 and a long time ago - miata I think the track record in gt1 is in the 1:35 range, so we will see how I do.
Those times are similar to our (COMSCC) current class records for STGT and SPB set back in 08. We fully expect the records to fall this time around as cars have got a lot faster, and the last couple of times we have been there it was cold and rainy. So if you feel like doing back to back time trials at Mosport you are more than welcome to sign up
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wutfun
Yeah, I am sure . This was happening on a fairly small technical track (Toronto Motorsport Track) with not much time for cooling brakes. When I had the x12 on the front and x10 on the back the balance was ok at the beginning of the run, but towards the end of the run the front tires would lock up too easily because the rears were no longer applying enough braking force.

I happened to have some x10 front's so I put those on and the car maintained a better braking balance through the run, but I could not brake as hard without feeling the front brakes give up towards the end of the the braking zone at the end of the longest straight.

I use to run x12/x10 on my c6 z06 without any issues, but that car is lighter than the 370z and it does have brake cooling vents for the rear.

I created my own brake ducting for the 370 because the stillen kit was not available at the beginning of the season. I will be ordering the stillen kit just to get the mounting plate for the rotor so that the hose will pump air more towards the center of the rotor. The solution I created involved cutting a hole in the dust cover and riveting a flange to it. But the air is pushed more on the outer portion of the rotor than the center.
I find it interesting that you are overheating the rear first because I normally get the reverse effect. I tend to overheat the front pads and then the rear starts to lock up. The Stillen brake ducts certainly help, but they are a little undersized to be ideal. The effect is positive, just wish they were 3" and not 2" as it would be over twice the air volume.
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Old 07-12-2012, 04:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dwnshift View Post
What's your diff temp?
LOL....I have seen a few cars where the diff temps get hot enough that the magnet on the drain plug literally mushrooms out. You end up having to pull the diff to get the cover off to drain the fluid.
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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lol@diff temp, I will kill the stock vlsd and then upgrade.....
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
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350s had high diff temp issues too, its no mystery. Lack of air flow from the pumpkin being mounted so high into the chassis. Soon ill be doing 1.5way diff, diff cooler, Nismo cover, and shorter final drive all at the same time. Should perform much better and rule out rear diff temp issues
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:20 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Just so you know.... Track guys you are Prob pushin 400f and that's only 10-15 minute runs.
We hit 380 f and that was with a pump and cooler.... and have really worked to get them liveable.
Change that fluid often ..... For sure!
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I've quite literally had complaints that my car was burning from other drivers as I passed them, diff fluid smells pretty nasty when it smokes.

I change it every time I change the engine oil. I'm definitely wanting a diff cooler but drilling and tapping the pumpkin for fittings is a PITA.

If someone made a diff cover with the holes already drilled for the cooling lines that would be awesome! Hint hint, nudge nudge, wink wink.
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