BTW just wanted to mention that the level sensor issue was resolved. I added to the instructions a method to test the level sensor arm for full travel, so that you can verify you bent the edge of the baffle out of the way sufficiently.

The most resent installation confirmed with me that the fuel gauge reads completely full when it should.

Here's the baffle phunk is talking about. Before and after I bent it out of the way.

So if I decide to go with a Stillen SC and stay below 500hp I can use this setup with their bigger injectors and not use the fuel pump they supply, correct?

I'm not positive but I would think you would still have to upgrade the stock pump for it wouldn't pump enough fuel fast enough.

no he wouldn't. the stock pump just feeds the walbro now, but its not the only feed to the walbro.

:facepalm: That's right

To clarify, one does not need an upgraded 340lph pump that you would usually use to replace the stock pump when adding turbo/SC? We can just keep the stock pump and add this kit? Would there be any benefit to upgrading the stock pump and using this kit?

This kit has a 255. I don't know if that is enough, but I think he said its good to 500hp.

Is a 340 really required, or is it recommended since you are changing it out anyways?

Good question. It's what Sasha with Boosted Performance includes in his kit. So adding phunk's kit would actually be a downgrade as far as pump output goes....guess I better get the FI version...

The stock fuel sending unit is still used to feed the road race unit. There is no pressure against the stock unit, so it's flow will increase significantly. But we do not have a flow chart on the stock pump to know how much it actually will flow. Will it be able to keep up with a walbro 255 that's pressuring the rails? Hard to know for sure.

Even if it wasn't keeping up, the surge can has about 2 liters of buffer for you. So once the stock sending unit is either not keeping up, or in the process of starving, the displacement of the road race unit will start being utilized. How quickly you deplete it and starve again is anyone's guess as the situation is entirely dynamic based on fuel level, g-forces from turning or accelerating, and fuel consumption.

The road race unit has an additional siphon to add its only fuel from underneath it on the drivers side, which will supplement the stock sending units incoming fuel.

At what point would the stock sending unit need a pump upgrade? This is something we will be finding out in time as different people try it different ways. Surely once the road race pump has an output exceeding 255lph (whether with a single larger pump, or dual pumps in it) I don't think I would hesitate to upgrade the stock sending unit to a 255. Just FYI, the latest update to the road race pump install kit includes the fuel pump install kit for the stock sending unit... So if you do upgrade it, you only need the pump.

Mike and spohn, I will send you the additional parts per your request at any time since you purchased before the update.

Also, if the primary pump slot in the road race unit isn't holding the special 255 we provide with it, it will loose its built in siphon that pulls fuel from underneath it. This feature might be overkill, but I like overkill. Should the primary pump in the road race unit be switched out for a different pump, I would definitely upgrade the pump in the stock sending unit.

This, in essence, would be the FI model. Basically any pump configuration, single or twin, in the road race unit that isn't the single walbro 255 with built in siphon we provide.

Another note... As our standard naturally aspirated kit is plumbed, the stock filter and regulator is utilized for PnP ability outside the tank. I have only tested the stock regulator and filter at flow up to 340lph. Once the road race unit is exceeding 340lph, you are in uncharted territory. So if you put a single 400 or 440 in the road race unit, I cannot promise that you won't need to upgrade to a return fuel system for the larger regulator, and you might even have to bypass the stock filter (5/16" in/out) if its prohibiting max flow of the pump.

If the stock filter becomes restrictive for you, a high flow filter could be added inside the tank if you wanted to keep all stock plumbing outside the tank still. If you were going for 1000hp I would tell you that you need all new plumbing throughout the car, and you would replace the stock fuel bulkhead connector with at least a -8 AN one.

I think I'll be fine without them.

me too. At least until an LS swap, and hopefully, that is several years away.