noob HPDE questions

chillz

Thanks everyone for the feedback -- it's much appreciated. It sounds like the NJMP event is the best bet for me.

There's been a long discussion of appropriate brake pads for the track under the ice mode thread (and others), but do you have an inexpensive recommendation for a newbie? Also, this is probably a dumb question, but I gather that street use and track use are mutually exclusive, so if they're changed out beforehand, is it safe to drive to the track with them? I ask because we're in temporary housing and everything but basic tools (like hammer, screwdriver and pliers) is in storage, there's no garage, and I've never changed brake pads or fluid in any case. I'm just wondering about the best way to handle logistics; have a mechanic change them beforehand, or do they need to be done at the track.

BTW, the car has Continental Contact Extreme DWS tires on it now. Will that pose any problems?

I will have to investigate the price of the oil cooler + install and weigh against the likelihood of my doing this more than once...

Thanks again for the advice, guys.

ResIpsa

When you say that you have never changed brake pads or fluids does this mean on this particular car or ever. Because, if you have never changed brake pads on any car before you really should not pop your cherry before a track day. Also, changing brake fluid is tricky on our cars without some type of power bleeder.

Yes, you can drive on track pads but they will probably be loud and very dirty. I have a set of Porterfield R4’s that sound like metal on metal until they get some heat in them (and I am not recommending Porterfield R4’s as your track pads, get CarboTechs or Hawks).

Also, Hawk and Stop Tech make some street/track pads that probably will work for your 1st event.

But if you do only one thing, I suggest upgrading your brake fluid to a race formula. And don’t get cheap with this, I suggest Castrol SRF, Pro Speed, AP Racing, or Motul. The ATE stuff is cheap but I have easily boiled this blue stuff and you might as well spend an extra $50 bucks for added safety.

Keep in mind, when you boil your fluid your pedal goes to the floor in an instant and you lose your brakes. It will take a couple of track days before your mind can process a situation like that. You have about one second to choose the best of a couple bad options. Such as:

1. Drive into the wall.
2. Use the car in front of you as a substitute for brakes.
3. Open your car doors as air brakes.
4. Pee your pants.
5. Safely drive straight into the gravel trap at the end of the corner.

Off course option 3 is the only correct option. Just give your instructor a heads up so he knows when to open the door.

__________________
The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

ChrisSlicks

I usually do 4 in combination with another.

I did quite a few events with ATE fluid before I found it's limit. I don't think a novice would be punishing the brakes hard enough to boil ATE fluid especially in the cooler weather. I've had good results with the Motul and AP, definitely handles the temperature extremes a little better and are more reasonably priced than the SRF.

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

cossie1600

Bring the parts over and I will help you, takes 3 hrs to do everything