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Originally Posted by Red__Zed it all depends on what you want from the car...but realistically, if you want a true track monster, going FI is not in your budget for
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#2 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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#4 (permalink) | |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Don't do that. Buy the oil cooler. Get a good set of track pads. Look into fuel starvation and get that figured out. Then buy great tires and save the rest for the time being. You'll be able to spend or invest it in the car. But figure out what you NEED before writing the checks. Once you learn the car, you'll know where the money will make you better enjoy the car. Buying differentials, coilovers, sways, and so on is a way to adjust a car you aren't familiar with. How do you know those parts will make you enjoy the track any more? Get seat time, then start to spend your money after you've done a dozen events and know what you want to adjust about the car. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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![]() Oil cooler, pads, tires, helmet, and maybe rig up a camera mount in the car. In stock form the Z is already wayyyy better than you (or I) are. Seat time, seat time, seat time. |
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#8 (permalink) | ||
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#9 (permalink) | ||
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For hard-core track use get the biggest damn cooler you can get, I would recommend the 34 row Z1 kit.Quote:
Once you have improved the driver then you can consider car mods that might make it better on track. Do at least 2 events then you can consider sway bars and coilovers. If you complete a full season then reward yourself with safety gear, seats, harnesses and rear 4-point cage (no full cage in a street driver). Avoid FI as it is a huge undertaking for a track car, cooling becomes a really big issue.
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#10 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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If I had $20k to spend I would take the best driving school I could find. Bondurant, Skip Barber, etc. With a budget like that you could probably do a boot camp of some sort and come out with multiple racing licenses not to mention that I bet it would make you faster in the stock car than with all those mods and no instruction!
A track monster is something like travis' car... you won't be driving it on the street. Drop weight like mad, put in a full 6pt cage and race seats then start working on |
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#11 (permalink) |
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you better have really good tires and have a better driver to make up the 200hp!
wgi has a lot of long sweeping corners, slicks help a lot. you go to thunderbolt or vir, you will notice the 200hp pretty quickly as they blow by you... |
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#12 (permalink) |
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VIR is a power track for sure, don't think I could keep up there. Thunderbolt maybe.
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#13 (permalink) |
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I'd drop the catback exhaust mods, shift knob, etc. Set of long tube headers, up rev tune, Get a set of good coil overs like Motons or JRZs. kW3 s are decent for a budget shock but arent close to good 3 way adjustables, nice 35 mm progress front bar, no need for differnt rear bar, oS Giken LSD, 34 row GTM oil cooler, set of real race seats like recaros, race tech or Sparco FIA certified, good set of harnesses, harness bar or rear roll bar, some lightweight 18 inch wheels with Hoosier r6s or Good Year RS dot race tires. Good set of brakes. AM performance oil pan, nice Momo race steering wheel, surge pump (to address fuel starve issue), Rear diff cooler. 4.08:1 final drive ring and pinion gear set. Lightweight flywheel, clutch, upgraded throwout bearing,, etc, top notch racing fluids. Use the rest of your money to stay on fresh tires and fluids.
Z isn't going to be a Z06 beater but it will be fun. Last edited by Shamu; 12-12-2011 at 11:52 PM. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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What diff cooler are you recommending/ running? I feel I'm not having issues there but I haven't put a temp gauge on it either. I'm getting ready to change out my fluid and was pondering with adding Nismo diff cooler cover. And if it's worthy on any level?
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