What are the best suspension mods for the 370 for DD and some track use?

XwChriswX

Racing Brake is a no name brand??

Ok, then if one were to stay DBA, would you recommend the one piece 4000 or the two piece 5000, those two pieces are FS with very light use, or a brand new set... The 4000's are single piece, but half the price... so in the end you could get all 4 4000's for the price of the front 5000's...

This is for DD and good canyon runs + eventual track days. When it comes time for serious tracking, I could always upgrade right?


And if one were to just get the fronts with stock rears, would that hamper the braking system? Or is it recommended to just swap all 4 out at the same time?

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Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall!
R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14

ChrisSlicks

Sorry I though they were using the term generically, didn't see the RB logo.

In your case I would go with DBA 4000's as a replacement rotor. There is no point doing a 2-piece rotor now if the track is still a long way away. They would perform admirably on the track anyway.

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

XwChriswX

Alright, so 4000's would be the best... even better than the RB ones?

I know there is some towards having cross-drilled and slotted rotors vs just slotted. For the DD/Spirited Canyon runs/Maybe a few track days later on, would this present a real problem, or would it just be better to get slotted only?

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Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall!
R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14

ChrisSlicks

RB only makes a 1-piece rotor for the base model, they don't have one that fits the sport package, only the 2-piece you referenced. The RB 2-piece would be fine as well, both companies have good metallurgy and construction.

The drilled rotors look sexy, but when the cracks start playing "connect the dots" after a couple of track days you'll be hating it. They're fine for street driving but add additional noise and help consume your brake pads faster.

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

XwChriswX

Yeah, I have the sport package. Just looking to get the calipers PC'd and upgrade the lines/fluid/pads/rotors and that should do just fine for me until I can get my track expertise up.

I like the RB 2 piece ones because they give you the benefits of both, slots with holes in them as opposed to crossdrilled... Would that be a good median?

They do have signifigantly better weight savings vs the 4000's...

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Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall!
R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14

ChrisSlicks

It is street car, I wouldn't worry about small weight savings. Anything short of driving ballz to the wall flat out on track you're not going to notice.

The cross drills in the RB brakes are fine, they can still eventually crack but are less likely to crack that fully drilled rotors (the braking surface is more heat stressed than the recessed areas).

Replacement rings for the RB's will run you about 250 a corner, maybe a little more once you add on the hardware.

__________________
Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

XwChriswX

Hmmm... they just look better than the 4000s lol

Ok so we've narrowed it down to the Carbotech XP8s being the best pad for this purpose...

Down to 2 rotor options...

SS Lines are pretty much SS Lines, I'm looking at getting the Goodridge Phantom's myself...


All thats left is what fluid to get?

__________________

Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall!
R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14