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Thanks for the encouragement @sharpbycoop ! Yeah the bug got me good, all i wanna do is run my car now lol. I have some nt05rs on standby, i was
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#1 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the encouragement @sharpbycoop ! Yeah the bug got me good, all i wanna do is run my car now lol. I have some nt05rs on standby, i was practicing on an old old pair of nt555rs, I wasnt too impressed with them, took extremely long to warm them up and i just couldnt get traction on launch. I've got a private track rental in two weeks and will bust out my nt05rs. Hopefully i can improve that 60ft time to 1.6-1.7 or better lol. What is the best rpm for launching on a 6mt?
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Good luck! Coop
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Jim Cooper - (Retired: '08 Infiniti G37 Sport • TheShopCT built • 11.13 @ 123 mph (click for vid) • GTM Stage II Twin Turbo • 5-speed A/T Level Ten built • 591whp @17 lbs boost) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Went out today with the same result. Tried it in auto and it actually seemed to be .1-.2 seconds slower than when I shift in manual. I talked to a few people out there and it sounds like my biggest roadblock to hitting low 13s or a flat 13 is probably the heat and humidity down here. One guy told me that running in 50 degree weather and running in 80 degree weather with humidity tends to be about a .4-.5 difference for him in a N/A car. I'm also thoroughly convinced that the K&N Typhoon is robbing me of power on my launch vs. the OEM intake system, despite the several people who have told me it's better. I think there's just way too much heat under my hood after sitting around waiting to stage, then staging in this Florida heat.
The other problem I seem to have is that, even after pulling the brake lamp fuse (confirmed by testing my brake lights), I can't get my Z to do a standing burnout, and I can't get it to rev any higher than 1800 with the brakes applied. I understand that a standing burnout isn't really necessary on street tires, but I'm more concerned with the inability to launch any higher than 1800. I've looked all over these forums and everyone else seems to be able to do it just fine with the fused pulled so I'm stumped. This was my best run for the night. Going to give her a rest for the summer, figure out the fuse issue, put the stock intakes back on and sell these K&N Typhoons that are drinking hot air while I stage, maybe slap a couple of bolt-ons on her, then see what I can do this fall when it cools off down here. ![]()
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Precision 6266 - Switchback Racing 3.5" single exhaust - Switchback Racing oil catch can - Tial BoV/WG - Z1 oil cooler - Stillen trans cooler - Tein Street Basis coilovers - Megan rear sway bar - Konig Ampliforms Last edited by seanmorr370; 04-28-2016 at 10:26 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Corrected, not precise but 13.35 at 105.4 mph. 79 dgrees at 66%humidity I looked it all up using dragtimes android app, you can use dragtimes.com as well. Still, 13.3, nothing to be ashamed off, faster than alot of cars Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
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2009 370z Touring 7AT/AAM 2.5 true dual exhaust/AAM DE test pipes/z1 vqde35 headers/AAM cold air intake (R-line)/Motordyne M370/Quaife LSD/z1 brake upgd pkg/Swift Spec-R springs/WhiteLine Front&Rear sway bars with endlinks |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Here is a POV video from Sunday at the track. I had it aimed to high so you cant see much. I do have a better video of me launching on the street.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULGVf1Jl-Vg
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09 Touring 12.33@113mph 338whp Last edited by ajcool2; 04-27-2016 at 09:22 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Good Job; yes the heat definitely affects everything....not sure if your ~Z~ is a sport or base.
My base had an open diff & a standing burnout would not evenly heat tires;;;clicking of the spider gears after letting off occurred. Installed Quaife & haven't been to track yet/ but draws 2 even Black lines. Made a total of 6 passes stock/ best was 13.1@just under 105 & put in modified class because of K&N drop-in's...lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Precision 6266 - Switchback Racing 3.5" single exhaust - Switchback Racing oil catch can - Tial BoV/WG - Z1 oil cooler - Stillen trans cooler - Tein Street Basis coilovers - Megan rear sway bar - Konig Ampliforms |
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#9 (permalink) |
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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Weather started good that day,but took them a couple hours to get track right,,,around 60* air temp....Ran on Goodyear all season 275/40/18's with a good burnout....could not avoid water trap,,,also they use VHT or something on track/Sticky.
Logged a best 1.95 60' without holding rpm's up....only around 8-900 & flashed it hard. Noise after slightly powerbraking the burnouts made the clicking noise after I let off gas: sounded bad ;;; but I knew what the noise was. Going back after I get a tune.
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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Bout forgot; ck your rear alignment/ eccentric bolts will allow you to dial your camber a bit more positive; allowing the tires to be more upright,,,,but will also increase rear toe (gotta have some rear toe)
Max out your camber eccentric bolts (pushing bottom of tires out) & then adjust your toe eccentric bolts to put back in spec. I got rear camber arms now, with a more upright setup....putting new tires on tomorrow/ got the camber pulled + as much as the toe bolts will allow/// probably still around -1.0* (+ or - a tad) ![]() ![]() uneven front yard,pics are a little off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#13 (permalink) |
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Whenever I post here I feel like I'm late to the party lol. Anyway I took advantage of the cool air today and got a better time. Still haven't hit the dyno with my mods.
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