Some issues from a 2-day HPDE...

Shamu · 05-03-2011, 04:39 PM

Did you over tighten lug nuts or not tighten evenly when you were at the track?

Mike · 05-03-2011, 04:47 PM

Its the pad deposits, I get them too. the session starts out smooth and deteriorates. after some easy street driving to and from the gas station, and cooling, they start out smooth again on the next session and get rougher. These cars just generate a ton of brake heat. I've had it with XP12, RP2, and Ferodo 2500 pads.

We really need cooling ducts.

Also, I recently switched to the carbotech RP2 endurance pads, and in three days at Road Atlanta, the rear pads are already halfway gone. Granted they have about a third of the surface area of the front brembo pads, which look like new, other than the paint burned off of them, but come on!

flashburn · 05-03-2011, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shamu

Did you over tighten lug nuts or not tighten evenly when you were at the track?

They were all tightened to 85, from the beginning, and rechecked throughout the weekend. These were with aftermarket wheels.

flashburn · 05-03-2011, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

Its the pad deposits, I get them too. the session starts out smooth and deteriorates. after some easy street driving to and from the gas station, and cooling, they start out smooth again on the next session and get rougher. These cars just generate a ton of brake heat. I've had it with XP12, RP2, and Ferodo 2500 pads.

We really need cooling ducts.

Also, I recently switched to the carbotech RP2 endurance pads, and in three days at Road Atlanta, the rear pads are already halfway gone. Granted they have about a third of the surface area of the front brembo pads, which look like new, other than the paint burned off of them, but come on!

Okay cool, that's good to know. I was worried about it and skipped the final session, doh! I think for my next HPDE (in the Fall), I'm definitely going to try to get some duct work for my brakes.

That isn't good news about the RP2's, I was really hoping they would prove to be much longer lasting than the XP's. Although as of right now, I'm pretty happy with the life of the XP's. I'm at about half pad life for all of them, with 3 HPDE days. However, my threshold braking needs work, so I bet that if I was to get another set, they would only last for 4 HPDE days.

How brutal is Road Atlanta on brakes? I've only been to Sebring so far. I'd hope to at least get 30% more life out of those compared to the XP's since they are specifically for endurance.

Mike · 05-03-2011, 04:58 PM

Road Atlanta isn't really that hard on brakes. I used to track the 350z with brembos and the C6 with Z06 calipers there and run on hawk HP+ pads with no issues at all, and a set of pads would last me a whole season with those cars.

flashburn · 05-03-2011, 05:10 PM

So are you just going to stick with the RP2's then, or try something else out?

Mike · 05-03-2011, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flashburn

So are you just going to stick with the RP2's then, or try something else out?

I've got a Stoptech trophy BBK on order. 14" front and rear, switching everything up, and going to be running XP12s front and rear for now on Sharif @ Forged's suggestion.

flashburn · 05-03-2011, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

I've got a Stoptech trophy BBK on order. 14" front and rear, switching everything up, and going to be running XP12s front and rear for now on Sharif @ Forged's suggestion.

Ah, very nice. Looking forward to hearing how that solution works for you.

ResIpsa · 05-04-2011, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flashburn

Okay thanks. I'm pretty sure there wasn't anything stuck between the two, as nothing came out when I removed the pads.

So what can I do about deposits?

You need to have the rotors machined or sand off the pad deposits with garnet (not aluminum oxide) sandpaper. According to StopTech, the aluminum oxide actually binds with the rotor and can make things worse.

Keep in mind you just can't find this stuff in the stores. Here is a link.

3M? Paper 110N Sheets

flashburn · 05-05-2011, 03:38 PM

Hmm, yeah I noticed today that I'm still getting some feedback in the steering wheel when braking with the stock pads. I'll see if the wheel/tire shop can machine the rotors when I bring in my car to get the rear tires replaced.

cossie1600 · 05-05-2011, 03:41 PM

rotors are heat sinks, not sure if shaving material is a great idea, especially on a track car. if they have some miles on it, just replace it, make sure you get them cryo treated

leighspped · 05-05-2011, 03:45 PM

cryo?

flashburn · 05-05-2011, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600

rotors are heat sinks, not sure if shaving material is a great idea, especially on a track car. if they have some miles on it, just replace it, make sure you get them cryo treated

No chance if these are just deposits on the rotors that they will just wear off over time?

cossie1600 · 05-05-2011, 04:05 PM

not with the oem pads, you need super abrasive pads. i thought xp10 might work, but then they were the ones that left the deposit. do a search on how to remove rotor deposit on centriparts' website

cryo is a process that the shop freezes the rotor, it helps the rotor to dispense heat and wont wrap it as easily

flashburn · 05-05-2011, 04:13 PM

Is it possible that my rotors are warped and it isn't from deposits? I looked them over and didn't see anything, but if it's subtle, I doubt I would of.

edit: I meant that I looked them over for any warp-age.

05-03-2011, 04:39 PM	#16 (permalink)
Shamu A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,059 Drives: 370Z Racecar Rep Power: 19	Did you over tighten lug nuts or not tighten evenly when you were at the track? __________________ Grant

05-03-2011, 04:47 PM	#17 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2185	Its the pad deposits, I get them too. the session starts out smooth and deteriorates. after some easy street driving to and from the gas station, and cooling, they start out smooth again on the next session and get rougher. These cars just generate a ton of brake heat. I've had it with XP12, RP2, and Ferodo 2500 pads. We really need cooling ducts. Also, I recently switched to the carbotech RP2 endurance pads, and in three days at Road Atlanta, the rear pads are already halfway gone. Granted they have about a third of the surface area of the front brembo pads, which look like new, other than the paint burned off of them, but come on! __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

05-03-2011, 04:58 PM	#20 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2185	Road Atlanta isn't really that hard on brakes. I used to track the 350z with brembos and the C6 with Z06 calipers there and run on hawk HP+ pads with no issues at all, and a set of pads would last me a whole season with those cars. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

05-03-2011, 05:10 PM	#21 (permalink)
flashburn A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,884 Drives: '12 Corvette GS 6M Rep Power: 18	So are you just going to stick with the RP2's then, or try something else out? __________________ Current Ride: 2012 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport Centennial Edition Carbon Flash 6M Previous Ride: 2009 Nissan 370Z Sport Platinum Graphite 7AT

05-05-2011, 03:38 PM	#25 (permalink)
flashburn A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,884 Drives: '12 Corvette GS 6M Rep Power: 18	Hmm, yeah I noticed today that I'm still getting some feedback in the steering wheel when braking with the stock pads. I'll see if the wheel/tire shop can machine the rotors when I bring in my car to get the rear tires replaced. __________________ Current Ride: 2012 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport Centennial Edition Carbon Flash 6M Previous Ride: 2009 Nissan 370Z Sport Platinum Graphite 7AT

05-05-2011, 03:41 PM	#26 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 29	rotors are heat sinks, not sure if shaving material is a great idea, especially on a track car. if they have some miles on it, just replace it, make sure you get them cryo treated

05-05-2011, 03:45 PM	#27 (permalink)
leighspped Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Morristown Posts: 444 Drives: US Rep Power: 14	cryo? __________________ Performance: Fast Intentions LTH + CBX + Injen CAI + UpRev + KW3 + Whiteline sway bars + short throw shifter + 34r oil cooler = 335whp + (OS Giken Clutch and Diff) Interior : Recaro seat + Alpine HU and Rockford Fosgate Amp and Speakers + Passport 9500ci + JDM shift knob + LED's Forged avant garde m310's 19x9 19x12 RE-11

05-05-2011, 04:05 PM	#29 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 29	not with the oem pads, you need super abrasive pads. i thought xp10 might work, but then they were the ones that left the deposit. do a search on how to remove rotor deposit on centriparts' website cryo is a process that the shop freezes the rotor, it helps the rotor to dispense heat and wont wrap it as easily

05-05-2011, 04:13 PM	#30 (permalink)
flashburn A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,884 Drives: '12 Corvette GS 6M Rep Power: 18	Is it possible that my rotors are warped and it isn't from deposits? I looked them over and didn't see anything, but if it's subtle, I doubt I would of. edit: I meant that I looked them over for any warp-age. __________________ Current Ride: 2012 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport Centennial Edition Carbon Flash 6M Previous Ride: 2009 Nissan 370Z Sport Platinum Graphite 7AT Last edited by flashburn; 05-05-2011 at 04:18 PM.

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