DIY wheel alignment?

YzGyz

Any of you racers do your own alignment? I been googling around and found the sting method but not 100% on how to do it. Can someone with experience in this area do a detailed easy to follow home garage DIY w/o expensive tools (like a $300 alignment tool).

TYVM

YzGyz

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YzGyz

gomer_110

Not sure on the string method. I use a camber gauge and toe plates when I adjust mine. Only issue I've run into is getting the thrust angle right when starting from scratch(I think the string method addresses this).

Admittedly though, camber gauges aren't cheap (at least not the good ones).

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'11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions | Stillen | Motordyne | Uprev | CSF | Zspeed | Z1 Motorsports | AST | Swift | SPC | SPL | Whiteline | Hotchkis | Bride | Schroth | Robispec | Cusco | Nismo | Volk | Forgestar | Hoosier | RJM
'17 Titan Bone Stock

Zauskycop

I string my Spec Miata exclusively and normally end up pretty good on the settings. It took me quite a bit longer on the initial attempt but now I can do it in about 1 hour. Patience is the key, and a helping hand cuts off time so you don't have to constantly adjust, then check, then adjust, then check again etc etc.

I think the problem with the Z is the rear toe and camber. They are somewhat related as each limits the other. That said, for just a 4 wheel toe adjustment, it shouldn't be that hard.

HOW TO STRING: In a nutshell. On a budget

What is needed:

2 pieces of electrical conduit (both wider that the car by 12-16")
4 Jackstands
High color fishing string or thread
2 fishing weights
Good ruler to 1/32"
Alignment tools and wrenches
Wooden blocks or pieces of 2 x 12
4 plastic bags

The idea is that you want to create a "box" around the car. The box being "square" to the car is critical. Making that box isn't hard, but requires a bit of prep work.

First of all, the two pieces of conduit have to have either holes or slots in them for the string. It is absolutely critical that these points be EXACTLY the same width both front and rear. These are creating the 2 sides of your box and you can't create a square if two sides aren't perfect. I preferred a small slot both top and bottom to hold the string perfect. So measure the widest width on the Z (probably the rear wheel track) and add 12" (6 for each side). This will become your distance that you will make the points at. Make this exact measurement on both pieces of conduit. I then used a cheap conduit cutter to make a perfect circle around them and cut my slots (drill your holes?).

Now you will put that conduit on jackstands front and rear of car, as parallel as possible to each other and square to the nose and tail of the car. Your car should be on a few pieces of wood or such to lift it off the ground a bit so you can actually get UNDER the car to make the changes. I put plastic bags between the wheel and the block to create a slippery surface. The height of the jackstands will be dictated by the hub of the wheels. When you tie up your string, you want it to go right past the middle of the wheel (hub). So what do is tie a loop, or sliding loop on one end of the string, then put that loop in that slot you just made on the front piece of conduit. Run the string to the rear and either tie it or (what I do) tie a fishing weight to the other end and just drape it over the back piece of conduit in that slot. You should now have a vague "box" around the car.

Next is the adjustment. Measure the distance on the string from the hub of the car, or any point in the center of the wheel...beware dented or bashed in points. Measure left and right and adjust the front piece of conduit back and forth until the measurements are close. Don't worry about perfect the first time, you will be back for that. After the front is done, move to the rear wheels and do the same...just close. Now you have "mostly square". Move back to the fronts and NOW go for perfect. Repeat at the rears. NOTE: Side to side measurements will be exactly the same, but not necessarily axle to axle. Due to track differences, you may be 6.5" away on the front, but only 5.5" on the rear. That's fine. Make sure both SIDES of the same axle are perfect.

You now have a PERFECT square around the car. What does this do? Well, if your steering wheel is straight you can take your ruler and measure from the lip (undamaged!) of the wheel on the front of each wheel and the back of each wheel to find you toe! The measurements should be slightly different. REALLY think about them as you are measuring because it is easy to get them backwards. Example. Right front wheel: 4 5/32 front edge of wheel to string , 4 1/8 (4 4/32) rear edge to string. You are closer in the rear than the front so this means the wheel is toe IN by 1/32" Adjust as necessary, and do the exact same for the other side. Once again, exact side to side.

So what is the benefit of the string box? By adjusting within a square box, you will have achieved a "square" car. Zero thrust angle...meaning the car will track true and square. Otherwise (example of bad) you could adjust a car just by tape measures and end up with 1/8" toe IN in the rear. Great...except you started with ( and you can't check this with a tape measure alone) 1/8" toe OUT on one side and brought the other side in to get your final toe. So now you have 1/8 toe OUT on the LR and 1/4 inch toe in on the RR to get your 1/8 total toe in!! That sure would look funny going down the road!!!

Sorry I don't have time to REALLY get into this but this gives you a basic idea of what you are doing. Happy to answer any questions you may have...

Tracy Ramsey

YzGyz

So hard to understand in writing!! lol. I seen a youtube vid and it helped a bit. Hopefully one day you or anyone else can make a DIY vid on how to do this and how to adjust the Z's alignment. I'm sure there are others that do adjustments on the track.

Thanks for the brain food so far guys.

YzGyz

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YzGyz