working on some instruction updates right now. hopefully upload in a hour or two, otherwise tomorrow. I will post a link soon.

AH 99% with the updates but I gotta run outta here. I will post up the new PDF tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks

Updated installation guide has replaced the old one at the same address: http://host.cj-motorsports.com/pdf/3...uel%20Pump.pdf

let me know if you catch any mistakes

thanks

Due to some family stuff goign on my pump didn't go in for Zdayz. I'll toss my old printouts and use the new one and give some feedback.

On a side note, I need to chat with you about the Z34 oil system at some point. I know you looked at the reasons the pumps failed and would like to get some thoughts on my engine build.

I started having issues on startup. car dies right after start-up, very intermittent though, I can keep it alive with giving it some gas. It started happening more recently in conjunction with "no SES light, but limp mode".

do you think the bad pump is a culprit or something else?

You need to install a fuel pressure gauge to know if it's a pump or something else. phunk has a nice little kit.

Id agree that a fuel pressure gauge is going to be the easiest way to diagnose a bad fuel pump if you are not familiar with fuel system work.

Otherwise, you could always pull the fuel pump module out the tank for an up-close inspection and test giving the pump 12v.

While posting in this thread. If anyone needs a Road Race Pump, they are available for standard order. They have received some little updates and the instructions were also updated recently.

could be a small leak in a gas line

Let me know if your issue has been resolved, improved, or gotten worse! I would be happy to help you diagnose it if there is still a problem.

thanks for the follow up, the issue seems to have gone away on its own. it's been a month without issue. limp mode problem also fixed itself. I'm not quite sure if it was weather related, or maybe dusty air related since I'm daily driving this car into construction site

Just ordered the CJM RRP + new billet hat for the stock pump through my shop, R/T Tuning! Excited to get this and not worry about fuel starve any longer. Plus my fuel gauge hasn't been working properly for almost a year now... bout time I fix it all at once. hah

We have everything to build them in stock! Shipping is about 2 days from when the order is received.

Thanks

whats going on with your gauge ? mines isnt working right either.

But looks like I may be getting one of these setups done by RT as well

Funny enough... after almost a year, it seems like tonight it started working again :rofl2: friggin car... We'll see though once they take the tank/pumps apart a bit.

Those fuel level sensors are very finicky. The 350z had the same issues too.

Annual bump?

We have a couple of these in stock at the moment if there is anyone interested!

https://cj-motorsports.com/products/...race-pump-370z

Has anyone done the leg work for G37 measurements lol?

I was supposed to do this, but chickened out. How many hours is this job? I don't think I can do this at my house as my garage is underneath the living room. I have to do this over a weekend at my work's parking lot. Should I just pay some shop to do it? (I am not against paying someone, I am just afraid they will do a bad job)

I thought you had done this already? :confused:

You can do this in your garage over the weekend. My garage is over the bedroom. So what. When you start this project. Make sure you run the tank down close to empty as you can. Remove all the plastic panels in the rear, and remove both seats. Makes working in the area much easier. :tup: Once you open up the gas tank. Any fuel you have left in there. You can use a hand pump from Harbor Freight to get rid of it. A small camera comes in handy. Once you got both sides of the tank opened up. You can one handed reach into the tank with the camera and take a few pictures of the inside. This will help you with what the inside of the tank looks like. When buttoning everything back up. The blue o-rings on top of the tank. Wipe them off when you get to that point of removing the tank tops. This will help to keep them from expanding too much. Seems like they like to expand sometimes, and people have a time to get them into place again. And when you start to install the tank tops. Smear some grease on the blue o-rings when you are installing the tops. The grease will let the o-rings slide into place and help seal.

Time wise. Depends on your skill set, beer breaks. 6 to 12 hrs.

Here's my install thread. There are others thread too.

http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...p-install.html

I’ll be honest and say it was a little tricky doing the pump hat and RRP at the same time, as you have to mix and match directions. I had the most trouble with the electrical connections mainly because I have zero experience in crimping and some wires seem much too small for the supplied connectors. I can say that Charles was very helpful during the process and I probably annoyed him with my stupid questions via email, but he always responded. After all was said and done, I’ve had zero problems and it has worked flawlessly since initial installation. I originally just bought the RRP, but realized my top hat was broken when I took it out, so I had to wait on that billet part. But if you have all the parts, you can do it in a weekend. Good luck!

I now include smaller terminals for easier crimping :) Just got a spool of them a month or two back.

My setup is working great except I lost my fuel guage. I checked the wiring and it seems the disconnect is happening somewhere in the connection between the inside connector to the hat and the outside connector that clips into the car's harness.

I would like to redo the terminals since the ones supplied at the time I bought my kit seemed a bit big. Is that something you would sell seperately or provide specs so I can buy the better sized ones?

Overall the kit has been a huge success, just this dumb pesky fuel level signal which has been problematic.

I bought it, then I left it sitting around and sold it ...

Hello please PM your shipping address and email address.

When the gauge goes out, I would recommend using a multi-meter to confirm that the problem is on the RRP side of the tank and not the stock fuel pump side of the tank. Photo attached of test data. You can do this without opening the tank. You just have to gain access to the top of the modules then unplug them and test the resistance across the 2 level sensor terminals. This will show that it is in range... in your case, it will show an open circuit at whichever one is causing the gauge to go blank. Of course, it will look different on the RRP side of the tank as the new 6-pin connector is used not that stock 2 pin connector.

A couple of these are in stock at the moment if anyone is interested. I try to keep 1 or 2 of them on hand ready for assembly these days.

Charles, are you selling any of these already set up with twin pumps or could you do it at a customer request?

For anything below 600-650whp, it would probably make more sense to swap the internal pump out for a Walbro 450 or Aeromotive 340. This can be done by replacing the jet-pump feature of the proprietary Walbro 255 that the RRP comes with in standard configuration with an external jet pump.

This procedure is not too bad to do, and has been done by a couple customers already. The procedure is to cut the pressure line between the RRP and stock pump housing, and adding a T fitting. Run a hose from this T to the jet pump inlet. The outlet from the jet pump can connect to the unused port on the RRP manifold to send fuel inside there. The suction port on the jet pump needs a short hose laying on the floor of the tank. I can supply the components needed to do this, it can be assembled out of components I already stock.

This would significantly upgrade the output of the RRP without giving up any of its starvation fighting features.

That's above my pay grade. :icon17: Since my car doesn't, or at least hasn't seen track useage I will probably go with your standard twin pump set up with hydramat if I find out that I need to upgrade my fuel system after my tune on Tuesday.

Phunk, I'm trying to send you a PM but your box is full.

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Shoot me over an email!

What's your email please?

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Please find it on the website here: https://cj-motorsports.com/contact