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one of my favorite tricks in photoshop (if you have it) is to go to "Hue/Saturation..." and take blue and cyan down about -30 or -40 on saturation if it's
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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one of my favorite tricks in photoshop (if you have it) is to go to "Hue/Saturation..." and take blue and cyan down about -30 or -40 on saturation if it's not a blue vehicle. if i've got a nice blue sky in the picture, i'll hit it with the history brush immediately after to bring it back and leave the car without the blue. works great on black cars
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Patrick // 06 Frontier 6spd Nismosis // Mods: Uprev Tuned @ Z1 Motorsports: 257whp & 292 ft lbs 09 Pontiac G8 GXP // M6 // Sunroof // Tint... For now
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
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Location: Suffolk cty New York
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If you shoot a white card (search for whibal, expo disc or x-rite white card) prior to shooting your image then select custom white balance you will get a totally neutral image. If you shoot raw and render the file with the DPP software that came free with your camera (this software will result in the cleanest rendering, it is a little clunky to use at first but the results are worth it) and adjust the color to your liking, the results will be awesome. If you shoot jpg then go into the color balance settings (PS) and do a slight shift there. Hue and saturation will also allow you to control this but in a different way. Adding cyan saturation is very different from shifting color balance. If you over saturate too much you can make the file difficult to print. Out of gamut color resulting from too much saturation adjustments (particularly on a jpg file) can be problematic. Also, if you shoot raw the original raw file is never changed. If you screw up the final file you always have the original raw. When you adjust the jpg the changes are final. Also, jpg compression is very destructive. Multipe saves can really destroy the file. If you shoot jpg I advise to save the file first (before any changes are made) as a tiff and work on that.
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